The best of the best burners!

Very well put, Kelly.

Your sketch is precisely why I directed my oil burner toward the floor, to give the burn a round of the firebox before starting to rise. With a drip burner you will always have combustion occurring later and farther from the burner because of the large drops of fuel.

Isn't it Ironsides who has the very tall plinth, essentially the same thing but I believe the downward directed burner helps a lot. Especially when I hear guys say the bottom of their furnace is the coolest part. The plinth and bottom of my crucible heats up first.

Avoiding burnout of your false floor above would be an issue. However you could accomplish the same thing by having an internal tapered ring between the combustion chamber and furnace, just neck the wall in a bit and you have an integral Ursutz chamber.

Did you build your big gas furnace?

 

W3 (Harry) was playing with a 'flame trainer' over on AA, unfortunately the images are trashed on that thread. Essetially it was a drop in thick tappered ring made of refractory held a few inches off the floor to impede/restrict the passage of the flame and hold it circling closer to the floor. From what I remember it was quite succesful.

 

Jammer used a pool noodle to give a bulge around the lower part of his furnace.
He has photos somewhere.

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I poured the refractory around the bottom tuyere and then the liner. Put the outer shell on and packed with ceramic blanket.

 

Seems like the pool noodle creates a sort of Urstuz chamber at the bottom of the furnace.
It increases the surface area inside the furnace too, and provides a path and an area for the initial combustion to take place before the heat rises past the crucible.

I like the idea, but I am not sure how to implement it when using a 1" thick wall of refractory.

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In post 35 I explained how I made an emergency drip burner that worked very well. In post 36 Andy Oldironfarmer ask why I would ever want something different if the drip furnace worked so well then in post 37 PatJ explained it very well. I apologies for not getting back before this. I was running on little sleep and had to ketch up. To further explain, in my circumstance I will have a furnace that permanently installed and is never moved. The fuel system will be caged with a water separator mounted in a modular configuration where fuel is triple filtered before entering the storage container and then pass through a 10 micron filter before going to the spray nozzle.
It sounds a bit extreme but this will give me long term fuel storage without excessive worry of contamination and other than changing the 2- 10 micron and 1- 100 micron hydraulic filters should be a close to 0 cost to maintain system.
My furnace burn chamber is much like what PatJ is building with the bulge to allow the flame room to swirl around and combust before rising unfortunately progress has been slow as health has been up and down. Luckily it has been improved greatly!
Here is a picture of the forum I used for my burn chamber.
It protrude just over 1 inch around the cylinder shape and at the top has a smooth concave shape to allow the flame to make the transformation from the burn chamber to the barrel.
Joe

 

In refractory work it would be called a corbel, something like this:



Jammer's is the best I've seen. Barry's is great construction but I didn't understand why he put in the ramp, the hot gas will rise on it's own.

 

I haven't had a large enough melt to need this furnace. I melted Iron in it once with propane, and then only because my big blower quit working so I switched from drip oil to forced air propane. Just a test run but it worked.
Shoot, I built it in 2008, gave it a ride to Tenn and back and it's sitting in my shed. Might have to get it out and play.

 

Well today I was at an auction. A GRACO 600 Spraygun came up. $28 CAD (which is like $9.51 USD lol). I figure when the time comes, maybe I’ll put it to the test too. It has pretty much unlimited controls. Maybe I will give it the water test to see how much I can send through.

I also picked up a high heat blower for $16 Canadian (or $5.44 USD). Maybe I’ll test this too. From the instruction manual it has a 750 to 1000° F heat range at tip. Has anybody used highly preheated air as their blower air? I’m sure some guys use hairdryers??? Do they find a difference when using the high and low heat range?

 

It takes a lot of energy to melt metal. Is it a 1,500 watt heater? If so, it should put out 5,115 BTU/hr. If it's going from 100F to 750F that's a 650F rise. To heat dry air 650F with 5,115 BTU/hr, you can heat approximately 7 CFM. If it's a 3,000 watt heater, 14 CFM.

 

I have the same heat gun. I use it for shrink wrapping product at work when I don't have the wrapper's heat tunnel turned on. That was a steal for $16! That thing will definitely give you some blistering heat but maybe not volume or pressure. I've only used a hairdryer for charcoal and propane preheating for my oil burner, neither of which requires much air volume at all. I never figured it was any advantage to run it hot for those applications, plus I wanted it to last as long as possible. My girl only gets a new hairdryer every 6 months or so so one has to take care of such a commodity (lol).
I've seen a number of attempts at preheating air. Colin Peck has an interesting design in his book for preheating and I take him at his word as to its effectiveness. I think Jimmy Cogg may have used that design for his rig. There have been a few threads at Alloy Avenue about redirecting exhaust gasses for the same purposes (brain fart: I can't think of the correct term) but I don't think anything ever came of them.

Pete

 

I'm just entering this game. I don't want to be close minded to any one particular set up. Who knows, in the end I might try all (including the grumpy)!

Most of my career life I've shape medal of all grades and types. I've welded almost everything. I've also heat-treated and tempered almost everything. I've also built my brides wedding Bands from wax. I cut the wax the wax using CNC. Then sent out for platinum casting. I'm the one that set the main stone with a jig grinder. The jeweler guys refused to set the stone with my design as the stone was part of the sizing of the ring of the ring. The center wax ring was cut out. It was just there there to maintain a close sizeing well I CNC it.

It was centrifugal pored. I was not allowed to take pictures or video during the process.




Now I'm really into getting into the big stuff. I think, I have wasted too much time in the little stuff. Now I want to start to Pour!

I’m sick of making the patterns and somebody else get it to pour my small stuff. This is a 2 part cope drag pattern of mine. But I’m not yet set up to pour. So but I paid my buddy $25 each. But he has a large Coke furnace and can pour 15,000 pounds.

 

It seems like as a group we have over the last couple months developed a better sense of optimal furnace design and function. Had I known some of this info I might have made my furnce somewhat differently 6 or 8 months ago. Oh well. For iron work furnaces have fini the lifespan. I should get another chance. But I am starting to grasp the benefits of a very tall plinth and maybe a corbel or flame controller disc.

Denis

 

Also, note that he comments around 5 mins in on a grill he placed above his vent that did not melt or sag. This is relevant to recent discussion concerning combustion temps, vent temps, and cast iron melts and is consistent with the results I had with a similar grill.

Denis

 

My family owns a jewelry store in florida and we do 90% work in house from cad to print, all the casting....
but that has got to be the silliest thing I've heard in a while. Next time, send me the wax, I'll cast it and let you film it. Hell, you can come down and pour it yourself if ya want and I'll film it. There is this website these days called youtube. Wanna see how yellowcake is made?

Hey what did you set in those posts?