1/4 scale '41 Willys

Hot August Nights swap meet. Good show and the Willys was well received.

 

I switched back to engine work because I need to have it to determine the engine compartment clearances. This is a setup with a lathe milling attachment mounted in the offside T slot. I use the compound to add rigidity and then machine the main bearing and cam journals with a boring bar held between centers. That is it on the headstock. A 1/4" cutting tool is mounted in the hole and adjusted for depth of cut. The step drill just gives the start for a "D" bit that is one end of the boring bar. Then it is reversed and one end held in the collet and the other with a center in the tailstock.



I'll start a thread in small engines when I get into the machining of the block and heads.

I found this on Craigslist for $15 and it was the perfect size. It is tall enough to handle the car even when the wheels are mounted.

 

I also started on the rear end. I thought I could get away with making the axles from Chevy intake valves, but with the backset on the mags, they weren't long enough to reach the third member. so Ill sleeve them together to use as roller axles.

 

Add an underslung frame to that thing, a couple of wheels, some steering, a seat cushion, a small-ish engine and you've got the equivalent of a powered little red wagon for getting around at the swap meets.

Don

 

love the "Shipping Crate" you picked up for it. really hit the era vibe you have with the willys.

 

Yeah, he's got it all packed up to mail it to me just in time for christmas! Hope he finishes it by then.

 

Thanks guys. The steamer trunk was just the ticket for a thousand mile jaunt to Colorado Springs in the basement of the RV.

 

I still say you need to add some wheels. a small engine and a seat to the steamer trunk and use it to get around at the shows and swap meets. It'd be way cooler than a motorized little red wagon.

Don

 

I originally made a 9" third member replica, but since hypoid gears in that scale are unavailable, I altered the pattern to bring the pinion in on the centerline of the axles. The helical gear set is similar to what is used in small angle grinders and fits in the 1/4 scale banjo housing. I poured with fresh wheelium and used the horn gate and the rammed offset pouring basin. One good result, the other with a small shrink cavity from a too small runner.



After some machine work I end up with a functional unit, but missed the center for the hex drive for the axle shafts so developed a plan "B".





I ended up with one of those great big (3000lb) machines that makes really small stuff. I couldn't turn it down at $500 since I knew
I would need it for the oil passages in the block and the crankshaft. The original .124" oil passages in the block took 16 hrs to drill on the lathe with a "D" bit and I broke two drills in the crank and had to have them EDM'd out. Now small broken drills and taps no longer concern me except for the time factor. Machining with a sinker is like watching paint dry.

The new plan "B" consisted of boring and shaping the hex drive first, then turning the bearing surface and gear flange on a trued mandrel. The axles are 1/4" allen wrench stock and the electrodes were graphite hex mounted on a piece of brazing rod. A couple hours later, with the third electrode, a through hex.

 

I realize that there's no difference, but without the suspension brackets the rear end in the last picture looks a lot wider than the first picture of it. Took me a while to figure out why there was so much of the axle tubes showing.

Don

 

I still have to shorten the axles after the tubes are welded. They will be the same length with the pinion centered and the banjo housing offset so the driveline is centered.

 

I'm staying old school with the disc brake calipers. I had thought about copying some Wilwoods since they don't have the sliding pin, but instead have pistons on both sides to equalize.

 

I've been looking for brakes, but they are all for 1/5 scale buggies and have master cylinders and carbon fiber rotors. I might be able to use their pads but will need to turn my rotors since I need a deep dish.

 

Continuing with the calipers, here are the patterns in the mold frame ready for the POP to make the core box.



Core box cleaned up and the first cores on the core plate ready for baking.



This is the drag of the mold with the runner and gates in place.




I used a square sprue pin and a cutter I had made to create an offset pouring basin. I wanted a little extra for machining on the inside and sanded on the cores to get it. I went a little outside the lines, so I will modify the corebox to eliminate the flash.


And, a handful of calipers. Next up some sort of fixture to hold them for machining.

 

Incredible detail.... What are you doing wearing your watch out in the shop?
Have you seen the Kermit yet? When these come in the shop, they fly out the door for stupid money.

 

I bought some glue on 1/5 scale pads, but they are just a little small. I'll have to do a little research as to material and then go from there. I've got a front brake setup coming just to get an idea of the bleed screws and piston seal.

What are you doing wearing your watch out in the shop?
I haven't taken it off since 1985 except for band rebuilds. Just a couple weld splatters, but that doesn't hurt the running of it none.