1/4 scale '41 Willys

Discussion in 'Other metal working projects' started by ESC, Jan 31, 2019.

  1. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    If it ends up RC a servo actuated master cylinder would be used. There seems to a lot of 1/5 scale brake systems available and as add on 4 wheel braking.
    A quick lookup shows bulk friction material is available from McMaster Karr,
     
  2. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    I thought I would pour cast iron rotors even though I ended up with some carbon fiber discs with a brake setup I bought to see how the master cylinder operated.
    I copied the one I had in the scrap pile from my truck. I have been learning to generate G code with CAMBAM . In 1/4 scale the internal fins were too thin so I doubled their size and cut the number. This is the corebox on the mill and one of the cores after baking. I had opened up the fins in this example, but as it turned out that was unnecessary.

    IMG_20191128_144331.jpg

    IMG_20191130_173644.jpg

    I probably could have generated the relief for the flange when I drew it, but ended up making a facing disc to give the space for the iron to flow. I also added additional thickness on the rotor face to insure I didn't get a cold shut since it could be machined off later. I had thought about stamping the steel mounting flange, but decided to modify a 1.875 expansion plug by welding a flange on it that would be captured by the iron. This was what I got.

    IMG_20191129_161834.jpg

    IMG_20191130_173617.jpg

    IMG_20191130_173634.jpg

    The thin sections turned out hard. I was more concerned with a cold shut so adjusting the TC and innoculating with FeSi should fix that. These might still be useable after an annealing cycle.
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2019
  3. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Too cool...
     
  4. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    I made a little box and stuffed it with the rotors and charcoal then soaked it at 750 C for a couple hours in the heat treat furnace. I'm not sure of my hardness numbers, but the 46 became 36 and while still hard I was able to complete all the machining on the rotors. I had some venting porosity to deal with, but they drill holes in rotors anyway. It is still a little fat. The final machining will need to be done as mounted.

    IMG_20191201_163642.jpg

    IMG_20191201_174745.jpg
     
    _Jason likes this.
  5. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

  6. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Nice!!
    Going Leaf springs or coil overs??
     
  7. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    Four link with coil overs. I'm almost ready to weld it together. The last thing to make are the caliper brackets that also act as the axle bearing retainers.
     
  8. ddmckee54

    ddmckee54 Silver

    Do you still need a panhard bar with four links? At least I THINK that's what its called, the link that keeps the rearend centered. Seems to me the rearend would want to go sideways without one. Or maybe you're going to use triangulated four links?

    Don
     
  9. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    Yes, It is going to get real busy there. The panhard needs to be parallel with the ground and since the coil overs mount to the rear of the same bracket I'll have to fit it in over the front and still clear the four links.
     
  10. ddmckee54

    ddmckee54 Silver

    I think if you go with a triangulated 4 link you can eliminate the panhard bar, it would save you a little room.

    Don
     
  11. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    It' a chicken and egg thing. I need to have adjustable ride height to settle on the radius for the fenders. Triangulated restricts that adjustment more than the parallel links do.
     
  12. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    It'll be neat to see the rear linkage and suspension mate up with your chassis. I can't remember, did you already make the front control arms, steering linkage, and suspension?

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  13. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    I made up a crossmember and a prototype ball joint to verify that it would work, then went on to something else. Since then I have built a couple radius tools for the lathe. I have Mustang II plans, but prefer coil overs.
    IMG_20180901_150532.jpg IMG_20180903_183304.jpg
     
  14. Jason

    Jason Gold

    HA! Mini Jaguar IRS. I TRIPLE DOG DARE HIM! If anyone can pull it off, it's him!
    43669d933632a0f515eadcd87beece27.jpg
     
  15. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    He is going to hate you for that suggestion considering he has the 9" built all ready.....:D:D
     
    Jason likes this.
  16. Ironsides

    Ironsides Silver

    It can be a challenge to get machinable iron in thin sections. What was the core binder you used for the rotor casting?
     
  17. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    I used my preferred 40:1 linseed oil bonded core. I've got another pour coming up and intend to pour chill wedges and push the total carbon if I can, and also innoculate with FeSi which I neglected to do last time.
     
  18. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    Not this time Jason, but I've been kicking an "E" head around the shop for almost 20 years and if I can determine the core relationships without cutting it up I always thought it would be a good model with an iron block and aluminum head.
     
  19. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Please do not cut up that head. :( They are getting hard to find these days and I know guys that will give it a good home. I'd rather see it turned into a coffee table instead of melted.:eek:
     
  20. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Cut it up!! We can make more :D
     

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