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Discussion in 'General foundry chat' started by Zapins, Jul 12, 2020.

  1. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    I was lucky. The tap broke off near the surface so I was able to weld a bolt to it and turn it out a little bit. The weld failed before I got it all the way out but I was able to get a turn or two out of it. Then I chiseled the tap with a punch and managed to break it up. Luckily the hole was still intact so I was also able to thread the hole with another tap without losing it.
     
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  2. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Mostly finished it up.

    I just need to make some compression springs to fit the 3/4 rod and it will be finished. I got some 1/8" spring wire in the mail should arrive this week. I hear i need to heat it up to annual it, wind the spring then heat it up to red hot and dunk in water to retemper. Sound about right?

    The angle on the blade is about 87 to 88 degrees. I may need go get it sharper but will give this a test run and see how it performs.

    All in all it cost $100 to make, which is mostly because I had to buy the plate steel at regular prices as I couldn't find any in the scrap pile. Probably could have made it for less if I had waited long enough for the right scrap pile... anyway still cheaper than swag offroad's kit ($300 + shipping).

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  3. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Did some test runs. Seems the thing is capable of bending past a 90 degree angle. Looks like maybe a 75 degree at max?

    I tried some scrap sheet steel which bent easily but when I stopped it at approximately 90 degrees the back side seems pretty rounded. Any ideas how to sort this out for a crisper edge? I'm guessing the die needs to be a different shape. Maybe more like the previous diagram you drew?

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  4. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    I found some of my first ever welds from about 9 years ago while cleaning up the garage. Figured I'd share the pain a bit. Seeing these welds hurts my soul.

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  5. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Yeah, those are structural!!:(
     
  6. OMM

    OMM Silver

    Those look pretty good compared to some of my first welds. I was dropping OK stick welds before I entered high school. In grade 9 welding class I convinced a bunch of students to make lava pits. Take a 5/16 rod and bury the whole thing into one huge puddle on half inch plate keeping the arc. Yes a bunch of us got in trouble.
     
  7. There was a local vehicle roadworthy inspection station that had photos of welds like that on car steering components!
     
  8. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold Banner Member

    You've come a long way!
     
  9. crazybillybob

    crazybillybob Silver Banner Member

    To tighten up the bend on the back side you need to move the forms closer together. Try nesting a smaller bit of angle Iron in the one you have welded in. Test the bend. If I remember the math the outside should be something like the width of the 90 plus the thickness of the plate plus a few % for clearance. Width of the 90 will depend on the depth of the angle Iron
    So A2+B2=C2 or (Width is the square root of 2 x the depth of the angle Iron) + the thickness of the plate to be bent + say 2-20% for clearance. The one thing that you have to keep in mind is that the inside die (your blade) + the metal bending can't be bigger than the outside die + the metal thickness. I mean it can be if you screw up but that's going to deform the metal your bending to a point then deform the bottom (outside Die) turning it into a U instead of a nice tight V.
    This is also decreasing the contact area of the die with the metal so your increasing the amount of force on everything. This may lead to creasing on the plate being bend along the top edges of the bottom die.

    I did find a note on a finger brake vendor that the smallest bottom tool for .25" plate should be no less than .5 wide. So clearance maybe only a big issue when punching or shearing. (I think I slept through that part of class)

    I hope this makes sense.....if not let me know I'll see if I can find an article or a diagram that shows it better than my brain can explain in words.
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2020
  10. OMM

    OMM Silver

    CrazyBillyBob is on the right track. The V is way too deep. I'm just guessing, the V die form is 1/2" x 3" plate. (Zap, maybe you can confirm the sizes?) If you keep the hypotenuse of the V to around 1 inch the depth of the V will be about .707"of an inch. This will make a crisper corner on quarter inch steel, but will up the tonnage huge.

    If my guess is right, the V form die would be about the right size to bend 1"- 1 1/4" plate. A quick fix would be drop in 3/4 inch plate on either side making a newer smaller V.
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2020
  11. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    This is correct.

    So I need to install or inset a shorter V length for tighter bends? I've seen 2 flat plates being used with the gap between them forming the space for the angle. Is that a good/better way to go about this? Or do I just need a smaller V? Or is it a smaller V angle?
     
  12. OMM

    OMM Silver

    Just a smaller V . A quarter inch material V can be as small as just over 5/8 deep this will give you a 1/8" land. Let me whip together a new drawing, but these will be the minimal. The bigger the top radius and the thicker of the material or thinner, things can change.

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  13. OMM

    OMM Silver

    You're getting a very lazy pre-bend. This is like taking a coat hanger and bending it with your fingers and hands with a gap 3 inches apart. If you want a sharper bend, move your fingers hands closer together and try it again. The closer your hands get together, the sharper the bend will be. But, the more power you will need to get a nice crisp corner. Try it with a coat hanger cut to 12 inches in your hand and you will see what I mean.
     
  14. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Ahhh that makes a lot of sense when you put it that way.

    Ok I think I know what to do now. Maybe having he 2 plates might not be the worst idea as they could be adjustable and I could vary the gap between them for different curves.

    My blade is 1.25" wide and is cut with an 88 degree angle on it.
     
  15. OMM

    OMM Silver

    Your blade is what we call the punch. The punch radius is not super important nor is it's angle so long it is less than 90°. It can be as wide as you want it to be, does not affect anything except for Price. The radius on the punch is important to not shear the material or weeken it. Bottom side of the V which is called the die (or form) does not need a radius unless this is production or repeatable. In production situations these would coin with a secondary coin or sweep. I don't expect you to try to achieve 60 strokes a minute here. Take your time and set your angle.
     
  16. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    I really love my local scrap yard. I picked up a 2x6x24" block of steel, a small radiator (will make a tig water cooling system with it) and a stack of metal gears with a few 1/2 inch plates all for $5.

    I go every couple days a d stock up on any metal that seems it might be useful for future projects. Its basically free at these prices. Never know what I'll find... like Christmas every time I go.
     
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  17. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Started working on a new guide for my bandsaw. I like the carter design and am sort of copying the gist of it. I'll need to order some parts to finish it up but its a fairly simple build and it will save me 200 bucks instead of buying it premade.

    Last pic is what I'm aiming for.

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  18. Jason

    Jason Gold

    OMG... Now THIS guy loves his 20ton shop press more than anything on earth! It really is pretty bad ass.

     
  19. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    I like the hose clip he made to keep the hose out of the way.

    I bought a whole lot of metal today. About 230 lbs. Got tons for new projects and upgrades. I even lucked out and found a brake press blade. I think its made from hardox since it won't scratch when attacked by A36 regular steel and its cut to the correct shape for a brake press. What luck!

    Pics to follow in the next couple days.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2020
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  20. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    I present.... a third third arm!

    Completed and painted and mounted on my workbench.

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