Buy a house?

Discussion in 'General foundry chat' started by Zapins, Jul 12, 2020.

  1. Cold gun blue contains selenium, gives a nice black finish that will need to be soaked in oil forevermore if you don't want it to go rusty. Hot salt blueing is a fair bit better but is non porous so oil only sits on top and it'll still go rusty after a while. Phosphate conversion needs about boiling water temps and gives a porous surface that will soak up a small amount of oil to increase corrosion resistance. Also hammertone paint can do with a primer undercoat as it has thin parts in the texture that allows corrosion alloy parts....did I mention I live 70 metres from a tidal saltpan in the tropics?? :(.


    https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/the...er-care-to-prevent-rust-try-this-t24642.html?
     
  2. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Zap, think black oxide finish. Yes it will rust if you don't keep oil on it.

    Mark, how do you keep machine stuff from rusting? In florida, I lived 5miles from the beach and a new gallon of paint would rust overnight in the garage!:eek:
    I'm am so thankful I live in dry ass west texas. The average humidity here is about 35% and the only thing I have to do is remember NOT to open the garage door on a hot day when I have it a cool 70degrees in there. When I fly to florida, after a few hours inside a nice dry cold airplane, I shut down and open the door in West Palm Beach. INSTANTLY and I'm talking RIGHT NOW, everything gets a layer of water on it. So after the pax get off, I have to run around with a towel and dry everything off. It's ridiculous!
     
  3. I've used up a 5 gallon can of Castrol Rustilo DWX-32 and have a one gallon can of Tectyl, the really thick waxy stuff and wipe it on everything with a cloth soaked in it and also thin it with Shellite/lighter fluid type solvents to put in a squirt bottle. Everything gets a coat, even tools put away and steel screws and hardware and steel bar stock like some 4140 hex bar I scored for cheap. The workshop structural hardware has a coat of cold-galv spray paint: all the roof screws and bolts etc.. I even zinc plate some stuff like home made tools.

    Edit: If only they made planes with airlocks....or even a folding plastic curtain box around the door.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2020
  4. Peedee

    Peedee Silver

    Lanolin for machined surfaces as I've been told. (Never used it so you'll have to do your homework)
     
  5. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Hmm interesting. That might explain why the parts rusted then. I didn't realize bluing caused rust.
     
  6. Clay

    Clay Copper

    Bluing or black oxidizing is a process of treating steel to create a thin protective shell around it. It works by turning rust, into black iron oxide.
     
    Zapins likes this.
  7. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    I spent a bit of time to make a slightly more elegant (if I do say so myself) mechanism for holding the motor at the right angle. The mechanism is done.

    Now I will sort out the panels and finish the base off.

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  8. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

  9. I have a quick and dirty thumb-wheel production method: knurl some brass bar in the lathe, then bore and tap for a screw before securing the brass "nut" under the screw head with Loctite. That also lets you do it up tight with a screwdriver if needed:

    4140 tap handle.JPG
     
  10. OMM

    OMM Silver

    Gun blue is one way of protecting a metal surface. It is actually micro oxidizing the metal. A oil rubdown is usually required.

    Black oxide coating is done more at a professional level with very corrosive salt baths. There are usually 5 to 6 dipping tanks. The first one is a oil degreaser. The second one, a wash tank, the third, a high temperature salt bath, the fourth neutralizing wash tank, the fifth high temperature neutralizing tank, and then the sixth, usually high temperature oil bath.

    These first two processes are generally done with low carbon steel. But they can be also applied for medium or high carbon steel. The prime example would be impact sockets. They are generally a medium carbon steel that have been heat treated for longevity and Black oxided for finish. Black oxide finish is better than a chrome finish as the chrome finish will flex and chip overtime.

    Black oxide finish is best used in a oily or greasy environment. Mechanics need to wipe down their tools. TheBlack oxide finishe will still rust if the (micro rust which is the black finish) is not kept oiled.

    If you like to keep low carbon steel from rusting. There is three main ways. The first one is keep it oiled. The second one apply a paste wax, the third one is just paint it.

    Medium and high carbon steel usually have chromium in the mixture. More chromium you have in the mixture, is the better the metals resistance to rust.

    01, 4140, 4130 and a few others are oil quenched hardening metals. Are they can be.

    A2, D2, M2, HHS and stainless steel have more chromium and/or nickel content and carbon in them. They all work together as a substrate to create a better metal for a specific use. Most of these metals that have high levels of chromium and nickel in them don't benefit from any coding except for paint or wax. Paint or wax in some situations are not desired. Example ball bearings or linear sliders.

    Grey cast iron can be black oxide. It comes out more purpleish.

    I get things Black oxide a lot. I can show you the differences just for fun.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2020
  11. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Painted more today. Also repaired the door with my tig welder where the wheel had worn through the wheel metal cover panel.

    More blasting and painting to come.

    Most of the fab work is done now. Just a few small changes needed from here on. I think I'll weld the base plate into the top of the frame.

    Then I'll need to work on all the mods to the saw frame.

    Any advice on a nice industrially made light I could buy or make and use to light up my cutting work? I had batted around the idea of a goose neck light or maybe some other type that is adjustable and can be swiveled at different angles.
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  12. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    More painting today.

    Also made the 6 inch riser block. Can't believe these are for sale online for $100 pffft. Cost me like $5 of scrap metal and half an afternoon to make.

    This project is taking its sweet time man. So slow. Probably need another 2 to 3 weeks to finish it.

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    Still looking for a good light I could use for it.
     
  13. crazybillybob

    crazybillybob Silver Banner Member

    Cold Blue, Then coat lightly with penetrol (by flood) Should keep it from rusting. If you don't keep it on a boat or underwater.
     
  14. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Hey Zap. Now that you have been around bidspotter for a bit and hopefully you signed up for the notifications....
    Have you noticed a trend? Shops are folding up all over the US. It actually really sad.
     
  15. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Yes been watching them. I think the machines are quite affordable but I'm hesitant about rigging fees. Most auctions don't seem to state if there are fees or how much they are. So they could be $20 or 1000$ to load it on their side.

    I'm also sorting out paying back a few small debts I borrowed from family when I got the house. I think in the next month or two I'll be done and can then save up for a nice mill and get one around March/April. I'll definitely post the one I'm interested in when it is time. I wouldn't mind saving up a good chunk of change and buying a really nice one with more capacity than I need. Maybe even use those big tooling cutters I keep picking up for cheap from flea markets.
     
  16. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Started assembling it. Still more to paint.

    Have any of you found a really good top clear coat? I want to protect the paint from scratching. Does anything work well or does it all scratch and yellow over time?
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  17. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold Banner Member

    Super job on the saw Zap. No advise on the clear coat, but your scratches will make it yours.
    Keep up the good work!

    Pete
     
  18. OMM

    OMM Silver

    Paint is just like lipstick. You can't prevent it from getting scratched. Different coatings or finishes only help out with Sheen and oil resistance. Yeah, powder coating is pretty tough, but it still gets scratched. Some of the best paints are the cheap rattle can and some of the best paints are medium priced oil based marine paints. Some of the best paints are two part epoxy automotive paint.... But each step of the way you go, the paint gets more expensive and so does the gun and air compressor. It is a rabbit hole.

    My cheapest painting is a rattle can.
    My second cheapest is a better quality paint with a foam roller and artist brushes.
    My third cheapest I start getting into guns. I have three different types of guns and painting systems. HPHV (air compressor), HVLP (a air turbine), and then I have a cheap all in one pump gun powered from and extension cord from a normal 120.

    With HPHV you need a pretty big air compressor first, but the guns can be purchased for $40-$400. I use a gun that cost me about $100. But I have an air compressor that is 17 CFM and 80 gallons.

    With HVLP you are usually purchasing a spray system. You don't need the big air compressor, but, you will need to purchase a turbine. My system that is HPLP ran me about $700 Canadian. I use a Fuji HVLP with a 4 stage turbine.

    My all in one paint sprayer by Wagner cost me about $50. But it doesn't have a good spray pattern. You get what you pay for.

    When spraying it is best to do it outside not too close to a home or any vehicles. It is also good to do this, not in direct sunlight (or quickly move the finished product out of the sun). It is also best to let the paint dry in a non-humid area. If you're painting indoors it is good to set up circulation with filtration and wear a face mask.

    Even using a rattle can indoors is a big no-no. Even some things I do with oil base paint that I use a foam roller with, indoors, I let it dry in a two piece bathroom with the fan running for over 24 hours.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
  19. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Well sucks about the future scratches to come. Oh well.

    I finished making the holder socket thing that holds the blade guide.

    I need to test alightnment now and make sure the blade will run true.

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  20. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Nice job Zap. Out of curiosity, why the riser block? What would you need the extra height for? Resawing wood maybe? If you don't really need the extra height, it makes the machine more susceptible to flex. Same goes for your guide support bar which looks like you need to make a new one to be able to position the guide closer to the table. Also makes for longer blades, which costs a little more dough but should last longer a little longer. Bottom line, if you don't need the additional height your saw will perform better without it.

    Best,
    Kelly
     

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