Propane tank/fueled furnace build

Discussion in 'Furnaces and their construction' started by Shawno, Dec 27, 2020.

  1. Billy Elmore

    Billy Elmore Silver

    Usually when I get the spitting and sputtering I have to cut the gas down a little bit until it gets smooth. Looks really nice though!
     
  2. Billy Elmore

    Billy Elmore Silver

    Edit...I was unable to see the video until just now .. dont think it is too much gas in the vid...possibly not enough. You are very close though...just play around with it in small increments until you get it smooth. But I would not try to do it before getting the walls dried out thoroughly.
     
    Tobho Mott likes this.
  3. Shawno

    Shawno Copper

    Thanks Billy. So, I guess I will not mess around with the internal flare shape anymore. I forget the propane pressure at that particular moment of the video but around 20 pounds maybe?
    So, for drying now...just put a 60 or 100 watt light bulb in there and leave it on for a few days, with the lid on? Or on and off for a few days? The liner is about 2 days old? and the outer shell about 4 days old, just sitting in a heated shop.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2021
  4. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Luckygen1001 on YouTube......His handle here is Ironsides. I mentioned him in the other thread talking abut melting iron with propane.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  5. Billy Elmore

    Billy Elmore Silver

    Yeah...nice and slow is the way to go. I had a hard time not fooling with it while I waited ...seemed like months before the weekend finally made it.
     
  6. Billy Elmore

    Billy Elmore Silver

    Ha! I knew he would probably be on here but had no idea who it was. I thought I had heard his voice before.LOL He's been very helpful on here!
     
  7. Billy Elmore

    Billy Elmore Silver

    I did a run this morning...granted I did melt about a pound more of aluminum than the last run...with the lid off. I was able to run full pressure at about 22 psi and the furnace got red much faster. However after I hit the 15 minute mark I realized I was not getting much hotter as I should have been melting but wasnt....at 20 I turned the gas down to 10 and put the lid on. It melted at around the 25 minute mark. My conclusion is that running the gas higher in my furnace will get to a certain temp faster but after that it is better to lower it and put the lid on it. I definitely am restricted by my lid and it is a little over 3". I can not get above 12 o 13 psi with the lid on or it extinguishes the flame. My next run will be five minutes with the lid off and then lower psi on gas and put the lid on. I believe this will be my most efficient way to do it in a timely matter.
     
  8. Billy Elmore

    Billy Elmore Silver

    Also..because of the higher flame impeding on my crucible I decided to raise it an extra half inch before I ran it.
     
  9. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    You may be rediscovering the principle that blowing fuel and air too fast through your furnace prevents full combustion in the furnace with the result that the furnace is acting like a pre-combustion chamber and is “cold.” Many many folks have turned up the fuel and blasted in tons (literally) of cold air in hopes of maximizing heat only to be disappointed. The air introduced into the furnace during a melt is the heaviest item heated being much heavier than the furnace and much much heavier than the crucible/metal.
    Denis
     
  10. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I agree with MS's comments about there being a limit to how much fuel air you can shove through a furnace, but I doubt you are near that limit with an normally aspirated burner. The likely reason you have to back off your fuel pressure with the lid on is because the back pressure in the furnace reduces the pressure drop across the venturi and reduces the ejector efficiency and entrained air flow, then the flame extinguishes from being pig rich. If you want to do iron, don't think you're gonna get there without forced air, be it propane, diesel, WMO, WVO or whatever.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  11. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    Oooops, forgot you were naturally aspirated. Agree with Kelly above.

    Denis
     
  12. Shawno

    Shawno Copper

    Hi All

    I thought I should check in. I have not disappeared but since the furnace needed time to dry, I got into other projects. I have been active on the mill and lathe a lot so it has been good. The furnace has had a 60 watt light bulb running for over a week and half. Not sure when I will put some real heat into it. For initial heating, I have seen temps quoted like 700 (F?) for the first heat. How do you measure that? IR gun on the wall with the flame off? How long should it take to get there?.... just to give me a window...I am thinking couple of minutes but then it will cool as the heat is absorbed into the refractory, I would think...?

    Then let it cool fully and do it again right after or give it a day?

    I ended up with a smaller crucible than mentioned earlier in these posts. Amazon was not shipping the one I had ordered (I regretted ordering it....too big) so I was able to cancel it and have a much smaller one now. I need to make the tools to handle it yet too.

    Just thought I would throw an update out there.

    Take care
    Shawn
     
  13. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Happen to measure the temp in the bore with that 60w light bulb in there? Would be good to know the starting point. Most refractories have a recommended schedule of a couple hundred degrees F increase per hour. Many dwell at an intermediate temp to two on the way up. It's probably pretty conservative for small structures and probably means the better part of a day in ramp up.

    I'd say gradually turn up the wick to extent your patience allows. You may also want to wrap a little insulation around the exterior because it may be hard to get an appreciable amount of heat into the outer boundaries of your wall which means that outer Perlite dosed refractory wont realize full cure and strength.

    FWIW, I installed the insulation around the uncured refractory on my furnace and a 200w light bulb produced a 280F interior temp. It sweated and shed a lot of water at that temp. Then I used my electric to finish the job.

    http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/furnace-fail-reconstruction.209/page-2#post-3489

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  14. Shawno

    Shawno Copper

    Kelly
    The hottest I saw was only 40 celsius, no where near 280 F. I did not have anything hotter at the time and did not picture it running this long. Having said that, I have not checked it for several days so if moisture was coming out, that might have countered the temp. I will see about getting a 200 W today. It is being run in a heated shop but I can do the insulation wrap if you think it is important.

    Thanks
    Shawn
     
  15. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold Banner Member

    I don't think you'd be throwing caution to the wind if you started a fire in there now. If you've had a light bulb in there for 10 days (incandescent, not fluorescent I hope) you've gone an awful long way in drying it out. My dryouts generally have taken the better part of a day. Do it all in one go. When you're ready start a small kindling fire, barely enough to cover the bottom, put a couple of pieces of angle iron across the open bore and set the lid on. Your just looking for gentle heat for now. Maintain that same size fire for an hour and then double your wood volume for another hour. Then double and maintain for another hour, then add a hair dryer, etc. Being able to dump your furnace periodically is helpful.
    Alternatively after your initial small wood fire phase, if you have some control of your burner, insert your burner and set it low and then gradually increase its intensity for hour long periods. Your primary concern here is drying as thoroughly and slowly as possible. If you see a real lot of steam, then back off a little. By your 5th hour you should probably be running full tilt. Take it easy, but do it. Either your refractory mix will hold up or it won't. Even if you're not completely cured in this initial firing, it'll eventually get there through use.
    This is basically how I've done 3 furnaces and they're all fine.

    Pete
     
  16. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I wasn't necessarily saying it needed to be 280F, just that even with a 200w bulb it could be, and I think that is beneficial before exposing to higher temps. It depends on the refractory and how wet it was mixed but I think that the time spent at the first couple hundred degrees buys you some margin to be more aggressive just because it drives off a lot of water. Thinner walls allows for more aggressive cure schedules. Most of the recommendations contemplate large thick structures.

    If you do stick a higher wattage bulb in there, use one of those ceramic bases if you have one. That 280F was just the internal furnace temp. Without doubt, the bulb and fixture were hotter and can challenge wire insulation. I sat the light fixture on a little insulation and ran the wires out the drain hole under the fixture.

    Cant recall what burner you have, propane is pretty controllable, but if not convenient or you don't want to spend fuel certainly nothing wrong with what Pete describes. Don't worry about the mess......there is no organic residue that will survive the ultimate furnace temps and all will become just fine white dust that blows away. Agree with Petee too about it being a progressive process too it dries and gains strength as you progress through temps, but some refractories also undergo an irreversible change once exposed above a certain temp.

    In the end, if you don't have a means for precise control, it's precision guess work and anything is better than full tilt from the git-go.....you'll be fine.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
    Petee716 likes this.
  17. Shawno

    Shawno Copper

    Hey guys

    Sooo, after going great guns to get this furnace up and running, distractions set in and here we are, after a month of slow drying with the 60 watt light bulb (around 100 F), and then shutting it off for a week or so, I finally fired it up today to check out the burner. I think the burner may need an air restrictor of some sort. I played around with holding my hand over the inlet a bit and I think it will be workable. Might work on that tomorrow. I was able to get, what I think, is a nice flame but maybe you with more experience can shed some light on it for me....?

    The highest temp I ran it to was about 400 F....but that temp did not last long so I think it was just the refractory surface. I only ran the flame for 30 to 60 seconds.....? Doubt I exceeded a minute. So let me know what you think. I guess the next step is to figure out a "plinth"..? Something under the crucible. Will a steel plate work? Or should I cast one out of the refractory? And I need to review heating the crucible initially...I think there were some concerns there too. Then make some crucible tools....:-O I have forgotten what I read in the last few months. I have been wrapped up in other projects but time to get this one going again.

    Cheers,
    Shawn


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    Jason likes this.
  18. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Getting close. It's making the right sounds.
    I'd close it up and let her run! You can use this time to preheat your crucible to red hot. Shut down and let cool slowly closed up in the furnace.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2021
  19. Peedee

    Peedee Silver

    Cast a plinth with refractory, don't try a thick steel lump in there.
     
    dennis likes this.
  20. Shawno

    Shawno Copper

    Thanks guys. I will cast the plinth today and then in a few days, heat the crucible as per Jason

    How thick for the plinth? I am thinking 1" ish? or does it need to be much thicker?
     

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