Buy a house?

Discussion in 'General foundry chat' started by Zapins, Jul 12, 2020.

  1. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Zap, I just bought a set of these for my air grinder. I'll let you know how they work on bronze. I want to fillet some parts on my sink.;)

    Amazon, 35bucks.
    Screenshot_20210319-130425_Samsung Internet.jpg
     
  2. rocco

    rocco Silver

    I have a long shank single cut ball nose carbide burr, I love it! I use it with a cheap air powered die grinder. I've never tried it on bronze but it cuts aluminum beautifully.
     
  3. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Rocco, that works good for smoothing 90degree corners? post a photo of it if ya get a chance please. Hope one of them in that kit I bought works.:cool:
     
  4. rocco

    rocco Silver

    My actual burr is out on loan but this is the profile I'm referring to a 1/2" diameter single cut cylindrical ball nose carbide burr. The flat sides work well on flat areas and outside corners and the ball nose does a nice job on concave areas. Mine originally came with an 8" shank, I figured that was longer than I would ever need so cut it down to 6".
    Single cut cylindrical ball nose burr.jpg
    And here is my whole set-up, air powered die grinder fitted with a swivel joint, a long shank burr. The die grinder is lightweight, fits comfortably into the palm of one hand and stays cool no manner how long you use it. That small bronze piece in the pic is an old VW valve guide, when I'm doing fine detail work where the length of the shaft would be a little unwieldy, I lube up the inside of the guide, slip it on to the shank of the cutter, it gives me another place to hold the cutter.
    Die Grinder and burr.jpg
    BTW, I chose a single cut burr rather than double cut, on the recommendation of the vendor, he told me they were less likely to load up with aluminum and easier to clear if they did. I have no double cut burrs to compare them to but I've been very happy with the way mine performs.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2021
    Jason and Tobho Mott like this.
  5. Jason

    Jason Gold

    I believe that for aluminium. These burrs I bought are working great on bronze and arent loading up at all. Here is a test piece. I welded a fillet, ran a burr, then blended with a flap disc. Exactly what I needed.

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  6. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Here is my amazon grinder. So far it's a keeper. I like I can hang onto it and it wont F off on me into the bushes!:eek::D:p

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  7. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Looks good man. But air tools? Pppft so loud. Electric or bust!
     
    DavidF likes this.
  8. Jason

    Jason Gold

    This air grinder seems to be pretty thrifty on air so far. Keep in mind I've got a decent compressor. But try these bits, they are good.

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  9. rocco

    rocco Silver

    Only loud if you're in the same room as the compressor. On the plus side as far as die grinders go, they're fraction of the weight and size of an electric one and they stay cool, all of which make them more comfortable to use especially for an extended time.
     
    Jason likes this.
  10. Jason

    Jason Gold

    I like compressed air as I tend to throttle the motor as I use it. Some areas often need a lighter touch and I cant get that with a motor screaming at 13000 rippems.
     
  11. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    I started redoing the vegetable patch. The previous owner used treated wood to make boxes. So I am removing them and removing the soil too since I don't fancy eating veggies grown in arsenic and chemical tainted soil. I'll reuse the wood and soil for the flower patches around the garden.

    I'm organizing soil deliveries of compost and soil from down by the river locally.

    I'm hoping to have all the soil and things I need delivered and set up in the next two weeks. Hopefully finish planting as well because I'm starting night shift in early April for a month and won't be doing a lot of gardening outside at night. I guess I should over plant seeds and then cut back the extra ones to give the others room?

    Also I think I will out the water tank next to my garage since I can recruit the entire roof surface to fill up tanks. The roof is huge. I need to measure but its about 40x50 feet if not bigger. So I'd get approx 1200 gallons per week on average. Should be enough to sort out the garden.

    I'll send some pics soon.
     
  12. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    How old was this lumber? They haven't used arsenic in decades.
    Modern pressure treated lumber is just fine for raised planting beds.
     
  13. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    He said it was at least 10 years old. So who knows it might have been a bit older. Anyway its all torn out now and 1/5th of the soil have been moved to the flower beds. No worries just a good bit of digging to sort it out.

    I got some true 2x4" dimensional wood made out of poplar for new frames. I'll have to figure out how to best lay out my frames to take advantage of the 28x26 ft veggie patch.
     
  14. It's still available over here, just not used for playground equipment. Doesn't it have a characteristic green for copper-chrome-arsenic CCA timber?. A lot of animals have arsenic as a trace element and I've heard one scientist: Dr Karl Kruezelnitski claim humans have a gram of it in their body as a trace element although opinion seems divided these days.
     
  15. OMM

    OMM Silver

    Creosote, if you can still get it is the best in my opinion. The old pressure treated lumber was the second best. I had raised garden beds built with mini ties from the old arsenic pressure treated. They only lasted about 10 years before they became punky and fell apart. They were pine. I replaced all the old pressure treated raised garden beds with interlocking brick in 2006. They are holding strong.

    The new pressure treated lumber without arsenic, I find it needs to stay dry. I built a raised deck 8 foot off the ground in 2007. I have top top coated it twice. This summer or next summer I will have to remove and replace all top the boards. I might try to give it one more refresh resurfacing. But, she’s in her final days.
     
  16. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold Banner Member

    Unless you’re holding a massive amount of soil I would think your poplar will hold out ok. Not nearly as long as pressure treated, but a good while. Once the soil has settled down the wood won’t be holding much load so their deterioration won’t create a huge structural problem. If you’re stacking them I would overlap the corners and pin them as opposed to butting or mitering them.
    Did those 2x4s come from a local mill?

    Pete
     
  17. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Yes local mill. I think I want to burn the outside of the wood and use some kind of oil to soak into it to try protect it. I've heard carbonized the outside can prolong life?
     
  18. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold Banner Member

    It’s more of the continuous soil/moisture contact that will cause the rotting. The exposed surfaces at least get to dry out, so treating the outsides won’t really slow the overall deterioration. Even so, you’re boxes will last awhile. Not as long as you might like (forever), but, awhile.

    Pete
     
  19. OMM

    OMM Silver

    If you think you're going to move forward with these garden beds, using the timber you have on hand. I would spend $30 on a vapour barrier and staple it to the top a few logs. Indirectly (or directly) creating a water bin that the wood would not be directly exposed to constant moisture. This will prolong the life of the Wood.
     
    dtsh likes this.
  20. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    I'll see if I can find some locally.

    Carbonizing the wood may also help protect them long term. If I get 4 to 5 years out of them I'll be more than happy.
     

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