TLDR: I reworked my dotting tools into having wooden handles to use with my shiny new Amaz*n alcohol lamp. I should have sanded them better before stain and during polyurethane but still look forward to trying them. Long Version: I got myself a set of these a while back, probably on someone's forum recommendation (Jeff?): https://www.michaels.com/product/mandala-dotting-tools-by-craft-smart-6ct-10649081 Kelly mentioned that the grips become an issue around open flame. I thought they could use a handle per ball. So I took them to work to cut in half, was told to use a vise... I found some 3+1/2" x 1/2" tenon shaker pegs to use as handles. I spent a few minutes making a jig to drill them to accommodate the tapered tenons. Holes are about 3/4" (19mm) deep and 3/16" (4.7mm) diameter Then I set to taping them to avoid epoxy fingerprints in the final finish. Five minute epoxy with the excess wiped off while wet. As mentioned previously, I did not sand the bare wood before stain, turned out to be a mistake. The first coat of poly was lumpy. I tried sanding between coats but first coat was still gummy. Pressed on anyways and discovered I had a nice drying rack. And this takes us back to the top picture. Maybe I will wait a couple days and try re-sanding and a third coat of poly.
The do look like the ones I got. All I did was cut off the blue plastic sleeves, which got a bit melty when I left them on (as Kelly warned me also), but I like the idea of cutting them in half and putting nice handles on them. You could mark the size of each ball on its handle to save time measuring them every time you want to get precise with your fillet sizes. Jeff
I like that idea, part of the reason for cutting them was to not to have to remember which one of the ends I was using. They tend to roll around the table with the large wooden ends, maybe I'll add a flat spot to each.
I took a look at the handles yesterday. Some of the polyurethane was still soft. I realized that as I opened the new can to dip the handles, I neglected to stir it both times I used it. I am debating whether to treat with Japan Dryer, sand/scrape/stir/re-coat, or use as is. I have two patterns almost ready for fillets but there is no good reason to hurry through any of it.
Liked yours so much I had to do mine too. Thanks for the idea... The ones you got look the same as mine which came in a pack of 8. Probably I'll not use all 8 sizes any time soon. I didn't see any point in bumping the older thread when this one is active and more recent, but here it is for reference: https://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/cheap-amazon-fillet-irons-alternative.2654/ Jeff
I've been using mine for a couple years just as they came. I just love the smell of burnt plastic. OK, maybe not. I have some of those pegs somewhere. Looks like a great idea.
I decided to upgrade my Mk I wax fillet mold (drywall corner bead heated with a MAPP gas plumber's torch ) to a Mk II machined plate and a cleaner DIY double boiler from an Aldi soup can, a beer can, and a bit of wire. This is also a Mk II as the Mk I boiler has a smaller soup can and was 'dirty' as it was used to melt raw comb so lots of 'bee debris'. I did a bunch of math in CAD to size the grooves, expressed in 4 places (.0001"/.003mm). The machinist had a good laugh, told me it's not going to happen, and made it for me anyways. The cutter was an insert type with a very small radius on the corner and worked best with multiple passes, deepest one getting 4 roughing at approx .050"/1.3mm deep and 1 finishing pass .005"/.14mm. I waxed it up with #2 release and went to pour. The pour was a mess, skips and globs, but the excess scrapes off easy with a knife. With only melting a small quantity of wax, the beer can cools the wax down after a few seconds without heat. I know these strips can be had pre-made but the messing around is more entertaining to me than the cash up front and storage afterwards. I am hoping to try the fillets out over the weekend on a couple new Roscoe-type flask brackets. Do people shellac-wax fillet-shellac or do the wax before or after shellac?
I use Shellac to seal matchplates before I do anything , over fillets I use Auto Body Primer then Steel wool , normally I have to add a second coat of Primer , then steel wool with 00-000 with graphite powder , then its ready for parting and ramming V/r HT1
The patterns got spot puttied and sanded, then shellaced, followed by wax fillets. I like using the alcohol lamp and the tools with wooden handles. The home-molded fillet material was generally too big and I found myself spitting the fillets in half, kneading them to be longer/skinnier, and scraping lots off the patterns.