What is the "right" amount of moisture for greensand?

Discussion in 'Sand Casting' started by Tobho Mott, Jan 15, 2018.

  1. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Selfalignment makes a lot of sense and seems like it would create less rolling resistance and require less power but was just thinking back to the other threads that discussed the optimal mulling action. Seems like there is always a lot discussion about smearing/shearing action as opposed to just compaction plowing and re-compacting. I suppose there will always be some slippage and shear under the wheel but fixed wheel has scrub too. Also must be able to handle hard clumps without stalling. In the end it's probably all semantics like time to melt in a furnace.......if it reliably gets the job done without baby sitting the process what's a few minutes here and there?

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  2. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Was gonna say pretty much the same thing Kelly just did. :D

    Too late for me to change to a swivel wheel, but I did have a bit of extra smear/squash in mind when I placed the wheel where I have it. Hopefully that will do more than just make it bog down easier...

    Jeff
     
  3. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    Me, head smack? Never! ;-)

    I am very very pleased with my muller. It gets the job done a 5 gallon bucket at a time while I am putting away the previous 5 gallons of sand. Some rolling action and some smearing action are pretty much unavoidable on a 4-inch-wide wheel. I can see the stream of sand as it exits the wheel and the inside 1/3 portion is "torn" every 1/4 inch or so much like a steel bar tears of you try to bend it too much. The outer 2/3 is a smooth ribbon of compacted sand. I am thinking the tearing action is a result of the speed of that portion of the wheel not matching the speed of the wear-plate of the tub. That would result in smearing and tearing of the sand ribbon. Whatever, it works well.

    Presently, I am working on making a chute to cleanly direct the sand as I dump it into a 5-gallon bucket. Right now, as a work around, I am catching the sand in a tray and then transferring to buckets. That is OK but would be a lot nicer to skip that step. (I keep my sand in 10 five gallon buckets as the buckets have good seals on the lid and I don't lose moisture that way.)
     
  4. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Once I finish the muller project and make new sand, if it isn't as good as what I already have, I plan to use the old (Smelko aluminum blend) sand as facing... So I'll have to store it separately until it has all gotten mixed in to the main heap. My 5-gallon bucket lids don't seem to seal as well as you describe, Melter; my sand will still dry out in them fairly quickly. I've considered the type of special 2-piece lids that really do seal, but they have to be purchased separately and aren't that cheap. Still, I may go that route. And I may need to build a chute of some kind for my muller too; I discovered it wants to dump sand everywhere when I tilt it over... Of course much of that was coming from between the top and bottom half of the drum, which has since had its rubber gasket installed and been tightened down, so maybe it's not as big of an issue as it seemed at the time. Nevertheless, seems a good excuse to get rid of some old sheet metal I've been hanging onto that is cluttering up my shed, so I probably will try to do something like that.

    Jeff
     
  5. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    Jeff, my 5 gal lids were purchased at my local "real" as opposed to Home Depot or the like hardware store. The Home Depot lids I bought were absolute crap. The ones I have now look similar but are better plastic, don't split easily like the HD ones and have a good gasket. They cost about the same as the crappy Homer buckets. So, might be worth shopping around.
     
  6. I use lots of hydraulic fluid, etc. on the farm and the lids have an excellent seal but are very difficult to get off. I guess it's time to save some lids and make a lid lifter tool. Hmmm, lost foam opportunity?
     
  7. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    This may be totally obvious, but....the five gallon pails of lubricants that I buy have the lids held firmly in place by means of a "zip strip" that binds together all of the maybe dozen or so lid segments that snap over the to pail upper lip. Peel off the zip strip and the now-individual segments are much easier to pull away from the lip and disengage. Disengage five or so segments and the lid lifts off relatively easily. Maybe everyone else knew that since they were five years old or so, but I just learned that when I became interested in using the buckets for storage of sand. Guess I am a slow learner. Not to say a "can opener" to disengage the segments wouldn't be handy, though.
     
  8. After the zip strip is off, I find it very difficult to get the first few segments to release even when pushing on the center with my knee. Guess I'm a 175# weakling.
     
  9. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    Tobho said: " And I may need to build a chute of some kind for my muller too; I discovered it wants to dump sand everywhere when I tilt it over... Of course much of that was coming from between the top and bottom half of the drum, which has since had its rubber gasket installed and been tightened down, so maybe it's not as big of an issue as it seemed at the time."

    I think I mentioned I was in the process of designing and building a chute for my muller. Well I "glued" together a prototype out of 16ga steel that works pretty well. I have put a few buckets through it and I get about 95% of the sand into a 5 gal bucket. I will refine this in the not distant future, but want to use it a while to determine what tweaks are needed. Here are a couple pics to give you an idea what I made. MullerChute (2).JPG MullerChute (3).JPG MullerChute (4).JPG MullerChute (5).JPG
     
  10. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    More likely you are getting very good quality pails with robust high strength lids---better than the pretty good ones I have.
     
  11. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Cool chute pix melter, I think it was you mentioning that idea before that caused me to immediately think of doing something similar when I ended up with sand all over my back deck... I would not have guessed it would work or be shaped as you have shown though, so I'm glad.you showed us that as my idea would have probably used up a lot more sheet metal and been a lot more in the way.

    As for bucket lids, I have not noticed a big difference in the lids meant for buckets that you can buy empty from Canadian Tire vs Lowe's
    Vs Home Hardware vs Home Depot. The ones that actually seal up a lot more airtight that I was talking abouy are the gasketed 2 piece type sold up here by Uline, but maybe if you are buying buckets full of (whatever) then reusing them once you've used up all the (whatever), that might be another way to get better sealing lids...

    Jeff
     
  12. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    Back to the original question about moisture content of green sand. Yesterday I noticed the sand I had mulled (sand that I have used multiple times in the past) was not behaving right---it tended not to pack into the mold quite as cohesively as normal and then a layer dropped out of a flask when I inverted it. This was something I had not had happen in some time. As I was mulling I had a sort of voice in my head saying that the sand was feeling a little dry, but I debated that back and forth. Finally after the sand dropped out after a second try I gave up for the day and took home a couple samples of mulled sand to moisture test by baking it out in the oven. I gave it 4 hours at 250F and weighed samples and then baked it four more hours with only a tiny decrease with the second bake. Because the weight was stable after the second bake, I felt satisfied that I had gotten all the moisture out.

    I am using 100 mesh olivine with 5% Southern Bentonite clay and 3% sea coal for cast iron.

    On bake out I found I had, indeed, gone a bit dry as the moisture content in each sample was right at 3 %. For my methods and molds, about 4% is a target number. So having not molded in a few weeks caused me to drift from my target moisture despite trying hard to remain consistent.

    Just mentioning it here as one person's experience. Will fire up the muller this afternoon and have another go...

    Denis
     
  13. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    And I did remull the sand adding just a few ounces of water per 50 pounds and was rewarded with sand that behaved itself nicely! Yay! Interesting to me how small the moisture content difference can be and still make a big functional difference. IMG_4870.JPG IMG_4871.JPG IMG_4872.JPG
     
    Tobho Mott and oldironfarmer like this.

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