1/4 scale '41 Willys

Discussion in 'Other metal working projects' started by ESC, Jan 31, 2019.

  1. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    How smooth do you need to get the metal before you go get it painted for it to have a good finish?
     
  2. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    Zapins, a sandblast surface takes primer and paint just fine. The real issue is ripples and oil canning that need to be shrunk to give an even surface. That is the skill I am still learning. Welds are filled with lead or bondo to blend.
     
  3. ddmckee54

    ddmckee54 Silver

    ESC:

    Any more progress on the '41 Willys, or are you still busy with your other little distraction? The rear end for the Willys is going to look sweet when you get it done. It looks like your other distraction has been getting its' fair share of love and attention too, nice work on the patch panels. Something just doesn't look right about that passenger side door compared to the driver side. Has the door been stretched, or has the car been shortened? (Or maybe it's just my imagination?)

    Don
     
  4. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    Don, that passenger door is from a Dorset, which is the two door model only made in '47 and '48. It is a little longer than the 4 door Devon door, so I have to make a new "B" post and then use the rear door skin to fill from there to the fender.
     
  5. ddmckee54

    ddmckee54 Silver

    I thought the door looked a little too big in the opening compared to the other door. or rather the opening where the rear door should be looked too small.

    Will you be able to use part of the original post you cut out as a starting point? Or will it be less aggravation just to start from scratch on the new post? I've done chops and parts swaps in the past so I don't envy you for your task.

    I have been enjoying the videos of Half-Assed Kustoms out of Canada on YouTube. He does some interesting stuff, but the quality of craftsmanship is well defined in the name. However, he's happy with it, and that's what counts.

    Don
     
  6. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    I have made one post, but I'm not happy with it so I started another one. There was a slight joggle at the belt line that I missed, so I corrected for that

    IMG_20210221_105411.jpg

    Here's a shot of the new piece partially formed and the old scrapper.


    IMG_20210221_145416.jpg

    And test fit in the car.
    IMG_20210221_174407.jpg
     
  7. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    I also picked up a Mechammer and test fit the Willys.

    IMG_20210217_140126.jpg

    I think it will be a handy gadget when I get back on that build as long as I don't inadvertently close off access.
     
  8. ddmckee54

    ddmckee54 Silver

    When I get my shop put back together, one of those is on my bucket list of projects. For years I've been saying "I need to get a shop built.", but between life and work, "I" never seem to have the time. I'm finally going to bite the bullet and hire somebody to do it, that way it'll actually get done.

    What size is that unit? I know the Willys is 1/4 scale, but I'm having trouble trying to estimate the size of the hammer.

    Don
     
  9. ddmckee54

    ddmckee54 Silver

    I also meant to ask you about the flanges on the post you're working on, did you use a hammer form of some sort on them, or do it really old school with just a hammer and dolly?
     
  10. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    I used the fibreboard template to mark and then cut the sheet, then tipped the flanges in the bead roller. That gave it the twisted look in the second photo. Then I used the shrinker and stretcher on the flange to flatten the face depending on whether it is an inside or outside curve. I have since used a slapper to flatten the face. Matching the jamb to the frame is my current challenge so I get a uniform door gap.
     

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