Another noob question- delicate/thin part removal from mold

Discussion in 'Lost wax casting' started by AGELE55, Feb 20, 2021.

  1. AGELE55

    AGELE55 Copper

    Weekend update- The green wax removes from the mold very easily. It is tough and flexible so absolutely zero chance of breaking it.
    Current issue- I am pouring vs injecting and the wax is not reaching the far extreme of the mold. I'm guessing that its cooling too quickly. I am zero for two tries and remelting the wax for a third attempt. Maybe warm up the mold a bit?
     
  2. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Yes, warm up the mold. You can also heat the wax more.
    Or get a 25cc syringe and use it to inject the wax into the mold under pressure. Works good in a pinch...
     
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  3. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    And maybe vent the mold
     
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  4. AGELE55

    AGELE55 Copper

    You think microwave or conventional oven to heat the mold?
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2021
  5. AGELE55

    AGELE55 Copper

    I. Using a container set into boiling water to melt the wax. Water boils at 212 f. Should I use direct heat to go hotter?
     
  6. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    You can heat it directly, but be careful you don't accidentally heat it to its flash point. Wax fires are not good. I would warm the mold in a conventional oven to 125F for 20 minutes.
    See how that works before venting the mold.
     
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  7. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Wax fires act like gasoline. It just explode in balls of fire. Would probably make good fuel for a furnace
     
  8. Jason

    Jason Gold

    I have no idea how you guys have set wax on fire. The only time I had problems was flash fire dewax.:eek: The stuff goes up big time!
    In my wax pot, I've used a propane blow torch to speed melt large chunks and nothing. Then pouring molds, I've gotten it screaming hot
    to the point where it starts to smoke! Again, nothing! Now, if I'm trying to rid water of wax in the pot, THAT'S when I decorate my ceiling with wax spots!:oops:

    One thing I won't screw with is a double boiler. Who has time for that nonsense? I don't!
     
    AGELE55 likes this.
  9. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I've never set it on fire, except for in the kiln.
    But I though it would be best to warn about the possibility.
     
  10. bill

    bill Silver

    You could use a Hi-Tech setup like this....LOL
    Hot plate and cream cups. Find thin handles for the cups. Thick handles get too hot. The one in back with pink wax in it can not be picked up without gloves

    IMG_3053.jpeg

    Here is the injector. The syringe that comes with these will have two holes near the tip. Cut those off with a dremel so you have one hole ejecting wax not two. There will be a short learning curve on how to get the wax in and out. Usually putting the syringe in the pot with the wax so they are the same temp to draw wax into the tip. The hook in the picture is to remove the rubber plunger for cleaning and drying.

    IMG_3056.jpeg

    This is a mold with the wax injected into the center sprue. You can see all of the vent holes that were built into the mold... I keep injecting until the vents are flowing with wax. There are six vents in this mold because there are a lot of places to trap air. Without vents the air gets trapped behind solidifying wax and it cannot escape, therefore leaving incomplete castings. This pictured mold makes little horses. The blue wax is too brittle for this model so I use Freemans Pink Filigree for these now.

    I will try the Freeman's Green like Dave suggested.

    IMG_3055.jpeg
     
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  11. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I used to use the freeman blue plasti wax, but something changed with their formula over the years where the wax went from being very flexible to what I would call dry and brittle.
    I now use the pink in its place for work with a thin cross section. Like the scarab back plates ( wire screen)
    I have a good selection of different waxes on hand and it's amazing how different they are from each other. I make a small neck charm that is a dog with angel wings that I thought the pink wax would have been perfect for. But had issues with the wing getting broken off when pulled from the mold. The tuffy green worked out great for this pattern although it was not in any of my first considerations for which wax to use.
    20160713_132945.jpg 20160712_130830.jpg
     
  12. AGELE55

    AGELE55 Copper

    You guys are awesome with the willingness to share. Definitely appreciated!
    I’m definitely getting closer. I snuck into the kitchen this morning and used the oven to preheat the mold. The oven’s lowest setting is 170, so I went with that. I also direct heated the wax instead of the boiling pot route.
    The wax did appear more fluid. When I poured, I tipped the mold to get flow into the thin area first and jiggled it. I did see air bubbles coming out, so I’m pretty sure the old method was giving me an airlock.
    On my second try, I got pretty decent results with only superficial flaws.
    I also ordered a stainless steel turkey baster off eBay, figuring it would be easier to clean? But now will also pick up the syringes. I wouldn’t think you could get the wax out of the plastic syringe... but it appears you can.
    I’ll pour some more tomorrow. Today is sunny & warm and there’s a live band down at the pub, so motorcycle riding wins out today!
    Thanks again for all the help. B2263F99-D871-4A54-A1AC-FCB904A45974.jpeg
     
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  13. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    ohhh so close.....
     
  14. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Dave, My wax in the kiln only goes BIG POOF when I open the door. So I've learned to leave the lid cracked open just a little and dont peak.
     
  15. bill

    bill Silver

    The blue stuff I bought wasn't freeman's but it is brittle. The blue horse was old and the back leg was broken. Almost impossible to demold without breaking a leg. I only use the blue for flat wax pieces.

    I saw a video on these I think... very cool....I will definitely order a bag of the tuffy green. The horse legs still break with the pink if I'm not careful.

    The trigger guard is looking really good. The small air holes can be removed with sanding/filling if you want but what the heck cast another. How will you cast the metal??

    Fire Fighting 101...Don't feed the beast.
     
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  16. bill

    bill Silver

    I forgot to mention. That is very cool. Slavic Mythology(Simargl or Semargl) or just a cool idea???
     
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  17. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    My wife does Shetland sheepdog rescue and I make these for people when their dog crosses the rainbow bridge...
     
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  18. AGELE55

    AGELE55 Copper

    Trying to figure out how to quote... sometimes there's no quote icon....hmmmm
    So the plan now is to make about 4-6 good wax castings and then attempt a shell casting. I figure I'll get a few good trie and pick the best one. After that, I learn to anodize.
     
  19. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    You can either use the reply button or select the text you want to quote and reply to just that.

    Anodize you say??? Are you planning on casting in aluminum then anodizing it??
    If so you better hold on a bit.
     
  20. AGELE55

    AGELE55 Copper

    Hold on a bit? Lol. I'm just muddling through through this. The original trigger guard was some type of a plastic. I figured I'll go aluminum and anodize it black. A clever ruse to learn practical casting, anodizing, and end up with a trigger guard.
     
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