Bridgeport for Beginners!

This is a great forum, I am convinced machinist do YouTube well instead of forums its like they want to be shop teachers, Adam Booth, Keith Rucker and mr pete222 is in fact a shop teacher. its a temp thing vs a .0001 thing (different worlds). the machinery handbook is a must I have both hardback and pdf, files to large to upload. Keith Rucker's website is a great resource for machine manuals. But I feel his forum is weak. http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/pubs.aspx . I purchased a universal dial indicator at auction and was able to find the catalog for it at https://archive.org/search.php?query=foundry%20furnace https://archive.org/search.php?query=vertical%20mill . I have old hobby interests, working on ancient

Attached an example of the machinery handbook.

Clay

 

Way to go Joe! Mine WAS working when I got it, but was really sticky like yours.

Too bad ruckers forum sucks. I didnt know the handbook is out there in PDF.. Anyone got a link for it? My book is in the mail. Had to get it off Amazon.

 

I am teaching a certified apprenticeship corse to industrial millwright mechanics. Most of the mis-information on the web is fun stuff... The real stuff is lost without theoretical practice. Usually a licensed industrial millwright needs to pass a three-four hour exam(8-10,000h experience). A licensed machinist the same. A licensed tool maker 3.5 hour exam. A licensed electrician 3.5 hour exam. my apprenticeship pass is 70%. My final exam I only got 82%. This meant I was only 82% right. How would you feel if you had an auto mechanic do only an 82% brake job on your car. A little bit scary.

I asked my doctor buddy what was the requirement in his course. He said he got 97%, but most failed that got in the 80%. For a fun ask your doctor what is his GPA was in med school.

 

Thanks Matt, I agree there is alot bad with the good on the internet I believe that the intellect resident on this forum knows the differences, I am just saying there is alot of data available out there for the studying kind of person in the form of reference material. In no way is that a replacement practical application or experience. Not sure the meaning of "theoretical practice" but I am confident we are saying the same thing. This hobby (lathe operator or Mill Operator or Metal Caster or Foundryman) is not for the novice teenager nor did I think we were talking with them.

I am a reader and fan of you threads and sub on your channel and I am extremely impressed with you Burner development and Furnace great job and thanks for sharing.

 

I find Keith's site helpful for my purposes although I've never really participated in the forum. I've gladly thrown vintage machinery a couple bucks. The other sites you linked are a source of endless rabbit holes. Enter at your own risk!

Pete

 

I'll be happy enough if I can make a few things, learn some stuff along the way and keep my fingers attached.

 

At the very least, you got yourself an amazing drill press, that can also perform hundreds of different milling applications.

 

I do know 1 month ago, I could have never made something this nice. I'm off to a good start I'd like to think. And I'm not really happy with this part. I'm going to remake it when I have some spare time.

 

I gotta say, for a beginner that doesn't want to go balls deep in this metrology stuff, this chinese clockwise brand is making nice stuff that's not stupid money.
This came in today, wayyy better than the digital husky caliper I bought. That thing just pissed me off everytime I picked it up. It never returned to zero and
was constantly a thou or two off. (I sound mega anal speaking in thous) I've got the clockwise dial indicator and it's a nice piece as well.

Anyways, these are found on amazon. 40bucks, it's really smooth, let's see how it does after I drop it off the table.

 

After doing a lot of research, I bought an 8" digital caliper from iGaging, designed in the USA and made in China. It uses "absolute" measuring versus the cheaper "relative" so it can't be fooled by sudden fast movements like all the cheaper units. The fit and finish of the metalwork and the smoothness of movement is right up there with quality brands and is about 1/3rd the price. It uses a 2032 lithium coin cell and the battery life is pretty good too, unlike cheaper units that are always on but just deactivate the display.



http://igaging.com/page12.html

 

I have a cheap junky caliper for general beating around and a cheap not-junky-yet caliper I keep in the box for when I need accuracy. I have both the plunger type dial indicator and the lever type (Last Word knockoff). I use the plunger on the lathe but use both on the mill. Usually the latter. I'm on my second plunger indicator. I dropped the first one and when I pressed the plunger it felt weird so I tossed it. I don't have any complaint with the indicators themselves but the holders are some kind of voodoo. I've found that the cheap shit is cheap shit and so far I've been getting away with just using the base rod, but something with stable functioning limbs will have to be purchased eventually. Suggestions welcome.

Pete

 

I hear that Pete. The nogo arms are DUMB MONEY and the 2 arm holders require mental gymnastics to get into position. Kinda like screwing a fat chick in the front seat of a fiero!
I too could use some suggestions for that one too. (not the fat chick, but the holder)

Mark, I've heard good things about that origincal caliper too. Maybe I'll get one of those next.

 

Got my handbook in today. 19th edition from 1973, came from Columbus college library and is practically NEW! What a deal!
I have no idea why I didn't own this book before, but what a WEALTH of information! I haven't seen a book this staggering in a long time.
Even if you are not machining and you work metal on ANY level, you need this book! Welding, casting, drilling, the full gamut is contained in this book!
Seriously! This should be required reading for all us metal junkies!

Thanks JOE for pointing this out to me.

 

You are very welcome Jason. It will become your bible and if you let it. Machining will become your religion.
Unfortunately on my mill. The power quill feed has stopped again with the same symptoms. A shifting fork has moved to a position on a spline where it binds. I strongly suspect that I have a damaged spring retention clip. Unfortunately I will have to totally tear down the head to fix it.
With 64 other projects even though I use this function a lot. It will have to go on the back burner for some months.
Wish me luck. I am about to replace my video card. My recent history of repairs does not instill confidence. If you don’t hear from me for a while. You will know what has happened.
Joe

 

Sorry to hear that Joe. I've got the other half of that stupid broken dumb bell STUCK in my machine! I had to order some strong tiny magnets to hopefully pull it out of its cave.
I sanded the hell out of a pair of tweezers and can actually grab it, but they slip off as I try to pull it out. I've read some real horror stories on this one. Good thing, I've had it out
once before, so I'm hoping it's not screwed too bad. Drilling the little prick isn't an option because it spins in its hole. Sorry no photo, it's really tiny and there isn't much to see.
Worse case scenario, I'll drill the casting from the other side, push it out, then drill/tap for a set screw to fill the hole. The next poor sap that breaks it will thank "future" me.

 

You may be able to use a welding rod to stick to the part when set to low current.

 

Ask at https://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/. They are helpful and have a lot of the parts you might need.

 

They sell a magnet that pulls it out.... I HOPE! Fingers crossed. They are very helpful. I've got them on speed dial and getting parts from them. Nice people.

 

I have it in pdf I could email, if any one wants it.