Bridgeport for Beginners!

Only if it has two dowels for positioning. I do like how you have originally set up the backwards feed of the DRO cable. This reduces 50% of cable management. You might have to put a small piece of angle iron or C channel to maintain the unrolling of the free cable. I hope this makes sense. The green is the clamps, yellow is the cable and blue is cable management.

 

Here is that gib up close. I'm not sure about drilling into the side of this thing. It's not real thick and I envision it splitting in half on me. Looks to be cast iron. Maybe if I had a spare my balls would be bigger. Looks like now I gotta find out how to adjust it. The learning never stops with this shit.

 

Motor was only 84lbs. Not too bad. Rehung the splash shield to check for interference, glad I did.

 

I mounted both my shooting star DROs on the back right side of the carriage. This puts the head away from the cutting tool, but puts the display in roughly the same relationship to the work, and away from the chuck. The only cable that must move is the power to the head itself, and that just drapes from the transformer. The Enterprise has a taper attachment that is behind the mount.

 

That's a cool idea. I'd do that in a heartbeat, but my display is the size of a billboard! I opted for the guy ain't getting any younger and misplaced my glasses again version.

 

I'm really milking this job. Not in any particular hurry. I hate the bracktry they provide with these kits. Might have to make due for now until I can get some proper stock in.

 

I'm stuck in slow gear... Got the long scale mounted. Works great and on the money.


Now the next one has me befuddled. Here is my options.

Option A:

Behind the action, should live a long life, but it HAS to sit above the cross slide "yellow line". No way around it. Too low and it blocks my cross slide lock screw "blue line". Also it has to be that high to allow me to get to the apron lock screw even at an angle "red line", I can still use it.






Option B: I can mount it and stay below top of cross slide. It wont hide any lock screws, but it will be chuck side.


Should I just flip a coin?

 

all of ours set up at school are on the backside of the crossfeed. Another piece of angle iron has been attached to prevent the tailstock from damaging. There is a no-win situation here. The tailstock tooling all needs to be longer and the tailstock feed is reduced. But the DRO read out on the front closer to the chuck reduces the swing of the cross feed closer to the Chuck and as well, it is in the immediate path of chip removal possibly causing damage.

I wish I could get into the school, I would video the whole situation set up after my shift. On four different machines. With the problems. This is where lies my love hate relationship with DRO's on lathes.

 

Trying to pick the lesser of 2 evils.. Any big deal if the scale lies above the cross slide?

 

Can you lay the encoder on it's side to bring it below the cross slide height?.

 

Sure I could, but I'd never get on the apron lock. It would be easier to access the cross slide lock however.

 

Maybe John here has the solution for me.

 

I'm thinking going above isn't really an issue.. (I think) notice my compound spins on a 1/2" high block?? As long as it can do a 360 is there anything else I might do with this thing?
Johns compound in the video sits flush on the cross slide. Mine doesn't.

 

Swings around over the head stock gearbox. Put an indicator on it and it's DOB accurate. When I move one scale, I see the other set of numbers have some really really faint flicker. Seller is sending another display and told me to trash this one. Works for me. I just don't want it to take a massive dump on me a year from now and I'm left fingering my ass.
Now to tackle the cross slide scale. Not looking forward to that one.

 

Got one of these in the mail from Amazon. What a really nice instrument. Damn shame it didn't come with a couple of stylus' , but everything else about it seems to exude quality.
From the case, to it's weight, it's smoothness and even the little brass tipped mounts. Well done Shars! I'll be needing some mics and I think they deserve a look for my tight ass!
I seldom write reviews, but this one warrant it. $36 bucks. what a deal!

SHARS .030" DIAL Test Indicator .0005" 303-3203A 1


I wonder if they all have the same serial number and someone sits in from of the TV writing it down on cards at night?

 

The Chinese do make a really nice plastic box That does look like a nice gauge, especially for that money, have you thought about a mounting set up, some of those arms and mag mounts run into serious money!!

 

I've bought quite a bit from Shar's, it's a good outfit (first place i generally look). Imported, but typically halfway decent. They also have a website.

CDCO, has the best deal on toolholders. They also have a decent, infinitely adjustable, dial indicator base.

 

Yeah I looked at the noga! Bet they'd sell a lot more if the price was on planet earth. I bookmarked that CDCO, thanks for the suggestion!

I came across some good photos to solve this cross slide scale issue. This is on a 13x40 enco and is very similar to my setup. I think I'll follow this guys lead with the exception of the carriage lock. I believe I can install a slightly longer hex bolt in the hole, trim it down a bit and skinny up a harbor freight wrench and bob's your uncle! Funny how having this equipment makes you look at stuff in a new light! I drilled some 1/2" steel last night like it was butter. Last year I would have gotten grey hairs just thinking about having to do that job!

Take a peep at these photos and let me know please if ya see anything stupid. I'll have to change out that allen grub screw for a longer hex bolt, but I think it's a solid solution.
He has hidden his carriage lock, but I've got that one in the bag.

 

I think you've come up with a perfect solution.