nope. 104 I think. https://frantzartglass.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=30D9883B732E4DBF91BF592FBE1A9B5C
No surprise to anyone I use a garage sale induction cook top. They are fast and safe, but don't work with non magnetic metals. So I get stuck looking for cheap pots and pans. I needed an easy way to true up the bottom of the tree. A 9x9 piece of 1/8" thick steel worked perfect. It's going to come in handy when it's time to sprue. Necessity is the mother or mother F of invention.
I've been busy working... Give a guy a break. I don't think the hilton hotel chain would like it if I hauled my operation into one of their rooms. "Whats this brown stuff on the carpet??"
You guys have been busy on this. I looked away for a couple of days and now you have five pages. Thanks for wasting a couple of hours of my time catching up.
Chunks are a chunkin' I'll invest these in glass cast. I left an angle on the bottom of the wax. I need to get these in glass so I can custom fit them to the wax shade. The plan to hold them in the shade is to weld tabs inside. Due to the shape, they shouldn't fall out. If any of you have a better idea, now would be a good time to speak up please.
It have to be pretty damn thin. I was thinking about tigging 4 or 5 bronze blobs around the jewels on the inside.
If the Hilton folks knew what I brought into their hotels.....or what I did in their hotels when I was traveling all the time . Well I'd have had to move my operation to a Marriott. I did get some fun questions from the TSA Folks and industrial lubricants show up on the quick swab test as military grade explosives. If you are slumping the glass to shape couldn't you add a feature to the rim to aid in the tabs locking in place? like a dimple in the side? Cast the tab thick....Grind it thin. Anneal it, then tap it with a medium hammer and a punch.
Can you key the glass into the shade, press the glass when it's hot to fit into the keyway? Then anneal the whole thing. Or drill small holes around the opening and peen in small headed brass nails, letting the head hold the glass, or perhaps drive s small brass brad into a shallow hole and bend it over to capture the glass. If the brad is a close fit it will swell and stick when driven. Or epoxy brads or brass wire loops into small holes or epoxy brass tabs inside. My other advice is don't build a stainless steel pool.
Andy... They will be keyed in of sorts from the back of the shade due to the shape. I only need to keep them from falling in. Doing the whole molten glass thing is outta my league, given my current equipment and lack of man power. It can be done, but takes a few guys that know what they are doing. There was a video around here of guys running molten glass into a bronze chick that is a must see. It's a crazy process. I'll be doing good just to create the glass pieces and get them annealed without cracking. I'm picking up the spare jewelry kiln this week for this job. I guess I better get cracking on a stupid PID. Doing glass work without one looks like a royal pain in the ass. Ramp times, holding schedules etc is a bitch when glass starts to get thick. My thickest pieces are 1/2". One of you guys had some stuff for cheapo pids.... just gotta find it. In other news, wife still wants the pool, but is holding the purse strings at the moment. If I can't pay for it in cash, I'm not doing it. I make the money, it's her job to figure it out.
Hey gang.. are all those little black crap controllers the same? I am seeing about 50 different ones on fleabay. 1000c should be plenty, but I need one with ramp/soak abilities. Here is a couple examples. All these little 3dollar boxes look the same to me. https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110-240...~daZtRI:sc:FedExStandardOvernight!76904!US!-1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/PID-TEMPER...kAAAOSwe-FU7gnb:sc:USPSFirstClass!76904!US!-1
They are not all the same. You need one that has several programmable steps. 24 steps is not too much. It takes a step to stet temp, then a set to set next temp on a ramp, then a step for the soak temperature. I think mine has 32 steps.