Yes 60 gal tank. Problem will be getting my registration out of the glove box that the compressor is pushing shut haha. Cop will have to help me move it. Ok well that will be the plan then HF on wheels.
Paint an orange nose on the front end and stencil some milatary signia on the sides, no cop will go near it, or you
The time has come to set up the compressor. I need a bit of advice on wiring it. In the top photo does the black line go in the top left screw and the white the bottom left? Just like the previous wiring photo I posted on page 2 or 3. What makes me pause is the instruction manual doesn't seem to specify where the leads go, just incoming power goes on the left. I'll be connecting it to a dryer cable which doesn't seem to have color codes the same way. All wires are gray... does it matter which direction I wire it up with that cord? The green I'm guessing goes to the far bottom left screw on the steel case. Oh also I bolted the spool to the wall. Bolting the compressor to the floor as well.
Depends what you used for wire. What did you put in for a breaker? I'm asking because you mentioned 10/3 earlier, but aren't asking about a red wire...one of the conductors in 3 conductor wire is red. The breaker needs to be double pole for a 240V circuit as well. Please double check that the power to the panel is off before working with the panel. Al
This is what I have for a cord and this is the type of plug. The image on page 3 of the wiring is how the guy I bought it from had it wired. He had lines going straight into his breaker with no plug connection. According to this picture I found on google image search there are black and red lines, but no white. Black is hot, red is secondary hot and white should be neutral correct? If this is how it is I don't see how I wire this thing up. Here is the original way he had it wired for ease of reference.
Is the wall plug pre-existing or did you wire it in? Have an ohm meter to verify which wire is which on your cord?
Looks like the other fellow ran 2 conductor wire and used the black and white as hots going into the breaker.
The plug on the wall that I'll be using to plug the dryer cable into was wired in by an electrician while I was out of town. I assume its wired to code. I'm guessing code is like the drawing above showing the red, black and green wire? Yeah I'm not too certain what the other guy did. Maybe he had two conductor wires like you say and just had the wires the wrong color? The instruction page from the manual just says 2 line ins from the wall go on the left, it doesn't specify if black goes on top or red on top, or if a neutral is needed. I'm thinking black on top, red middle and ground bottom. What do you think?
Never measured a socket before. Will have to look up how to do that. And what the results mean. So do I need to measure the power out of the female plug or just hook it up black and red on top and ground on bottom? *edit* So I found this video. Is this what you mean when measuring? Seems this will just tell you which lines are hot and which is the ground which we already know. The L shaped hole is ground. Not sure what other info measuring will provide?
If you get 120v between one of the hots and the "ground lug", it's wired up as a neutral. this will supply the appliance with BOTH 120v and 240v. A "neutral" wire is NOT the same as a ground or bonding wire and should NOT be used in place of a ground/bonding wire . Emphasis for the sake of clarity only. Your compressor requires a ground and you need to ensure that you supply it with one. Have to run, Al
the motor is wired across the black and white wires. it is wired for 230 VAC. the power coming in form the wall has 230 vac across the two power wires. the color code could be BLACK to White- if using a 2 conductor with ground ( green or bare) or BLACK to RED with the white not used and capped- if using 3 conductor with ground (green or bare). I would normally carry the color code parallel in the switch but in reality the electricity doesn't care about wire color, it just goes across the two wires. In the case of a burned out motor winding, the the power will go to the frame of the motor, the purpose of the ground (also called a bond) is to carry the power back the the panel and blow the breaker disconnecting the power and protecting you from having an electrically hot compressor casing, tank etc. the ground is a necessary safety precaution. Art B
Use your multimeter to do 2 tests. Unplug the plug from the wall!! 1. Set the meter on volts ac. Insert the black probe into the L-shaped hole in the outlet. That is the ground. Insert the red into one of the straight holes. The meter should read 120 +/-. Then insert the red into the other straight hole. That should also read 120. This tells you that the outlet is fully functioning. 2. Set the meter on ohms or the beeper icon to test continuity. Touch the meter probes together and make sure you get an ohm reading or a beep depending on where you set the meter. Touch one probe to the L-shaped prong on the cord plug and the other to the bare wires one at a time at the other end of the cord until you get a beep or a reading. That verifies which wire is the ground. As mentioned, it doesn't matter which hot goes on which hot screw. They are the same for all practical purposes in this case. The ground however must go to the lower screw into the base plate just like the green wire. Don't just twist the wires. Use the correct terminal ends made for your wire size with the correct crimping tool. They are tools you will need again so well worth the investment. Loose wires cause fires. Hope this helps Pete
You don't need a meter today. The center wire on the dryer cord is neutral/ground. Yes, they can be the same wire. The side wires are the power and they are undesignated "line". If that is a picture of your dryer cord it is already terminated. Just hook it up and flip the switch.
The dryer cord has soldered rings on the end that I can pass a screw through and tighten in place, no need to twist or crimp! So does this look correct?
Compressor finally set up and running. Man that took so much longer than I had thought. So many fiddly jobs to get it connected and running. And that concrete drilling business was rough. The bit kept wandering all over the place. I'm surprised I got the holes squared up in the right place. One thing the compressor seems to lack is an on/off switch. Might have to see about fixing that later on. Kind of annoying to have to unplug it.
No on/off switch on mine either. I just throw the breaker. You want to kill the power when not in use. If it chucks an air line, it will run until the cows come home.
