Drill press repair

To answer questions from your video, the nub that protrudes that the chuck mounts on is the Jacobs taper. I'm guessing that the spindle has a Morse 2 or other taper inside it, but that's a guess. If you lower the spindle to it's full extent, do you see a slot? If so it likely has a taper in it, to get that out you will need to insert a screwdriver or other tool and pry upwards (tip of tool will pry downward, past the fulcrum of the slot in the spindle) and drive the taper out....again, assuming there is one.

Something like this: https://www.cpooutlets.com/jet-5617...-drill-chuck-arbor/jetn561773,default,pd.html


Edit: I forgot to mention that it *might* have a hole through the spindle at the top where the pulleys are, if so you may be able to insert a rod into to knock the taper out (again, assiming it even has one).

 

I'll check tomorrow. If it's just a damaged taper then it shouldn't be too much of an issue to get a new one and get it back in working condition? Sounds like it comes apart fairly easily with a screw driver.

I'll post another video. Merry xmas everyone.

 

This isn't mine, mine isn't this bright and shiney! but this is what we're hoping you'll find when you lower your quill. It shows the slot to extract the arbor which dtsh and others have linked above as well as the drift tool used to extract it. As mentioned earlier it works by inserting it and prying upward.

 

You may not need any new adaptors/tapers. Another approach to truing the chuck is to simply tap it into better concentricity. First pop it off the the Jacobs taper. Use taper wedges to remove it. https://www.google.com/search?q=jac...8n7vfAhWgIjQIHb1NC3IQ_AUIDygC&biw=911&bih=417

Then use the method described here to get better (nearly ideal?) concentricity. I know it seems like the Jacobs taper should seat one way and one way only. That is not necessarily true.
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/drill-press-runout-good-bad-166971/#post984112

Denis

 

Just found this video in a completely unrelated random manner:


I disagree with how he refits the bearing to the quill by hammering on the spindle at 5:33 instead of the outer race, it's a great way to ruin the bearing by transmitting the forces through the balls to the races.

 

Here is what I found after poking around a bit. No slot on the side, 7 thou deviation one way, 3 the other horizontally. A lot more vertically.

 

If you loosen that nut on the side of the green housing just above the quill, you can tighten the screw in it and lock the quill's side to side movement temporarily. That will allow you to get a true runout measurement of the Jacobs taper.
The nut on top of the pulley doesn't need to be loosened as the pulley has it's own separate set of bearings independent of the quill that the female spline runs in.

 

The spring that lifts the spindle is under the bell on the right hand side, opposite the handle. It's under a fair amount of tension and I would highly recommend reviewing a few videos and reading at forums before dismantiling the spindle. It's relatively straightforward, but there is some personal risk, mostly where the spring is concerned. Removing the nut at the top will allow you to remove the pulley stack and under it will likely be the top bearings. It's an old design and has been used on a variety of machines, including my RF-30 mill/drill, so there's plenty of info to guide you should you choose to disassemble it.

All that said, a replacement is probably far less trouble and once parts are considered, probably not a whole lot cheaper to repair than replace.
I would just accept it for what it is and keep an eye on craigslist for a replacement or a trip to the local Harbor Freight for a new one (Central Machinery is Harbor Freight's brand).

 

If it were mine, and the spindle is integral, I would test fit the chuck in several different orientations and try to find the best runout on a rod chucked up in the chuck. Your chuck may be bad enough to correct the spindle problem. Then when I got it as close as I could I would clamp the spindle in the up position and whack the chuck with a large brass hammer. You can get it bent a few thousandths without damaging anything.

 

You might be right about just cutting my losses. I got it for 50 bucks so I don't have much invested. Problem is if I'm going to put up 300 for a decent drill I might as well keep on saving and get a mill for 1200 which would round out my tool room and save me floor space.

Hmm I'll sleep on it and see what I want to do.

I'll also try locking it out to see if the bearings are messed or contributing.

I'll give that a try too iron. That might do the trick.

 

One thing on compressors that is often overlooked is a service schedule. I would put 3 things at critical on the list.
No.1
The first being the oil.
When a compressor is new. I suspect it will come with a good organic oil. I do not know this to be a fact. I do know that with an automotive engine it is very important not to run full synthetic until the rings have fully seated. After this time full synthetic is vastly superior to organic and worth every penny. I have never had a NEW compressor 0 hours and have always changed to full synthetic promptly. It is surprising what will be drained out of the oil sump on older compressors. Even those that were in good shape and just a few years old ran quieter, cooler, and built pressure a bit faster after a good service.
No.2
Maintain the water sump and drain the tank often depending on use and conditions.
Warning! Vent the discharge away from your self. It will sand blast you with water and rust.
No.3
Occasionally release the over pressure safety valve just to confirm it is not stuck.
These don’t get opened under normal circumstances and will often stick. it stick closed, replace it.
If it leaks a bit after testing. A bit of oil to help it reseat is ok.

Clean and oil the input oil filter. Belts, guards, bolts and the like are all common visual inspection items.
Joe

 

I'm at horrible freight now. They have compressor oil here but it doesn't say 30 wt or 40 wt. Apparently my model takes 30 wt.

Should I buy some oil?

 

I like the 10 w 30 Casterole synthetic Motor oil myself. I have been using it for years and have noticed a significant reduction in both heat and noise over the standard 30 weight compressor oil. It is a bit pricey at up on $10 a quart but if you buy 5 quarts you can usually get it for around $6 a quart.
Your compressor is a lot like mine. I don’t remember exactly but it took around 1 quart.
Joe

 

Thanks I was wondering how much oil I'd need. 1 at is is.

Yeah the drill press is taunting me. I still haven't decided if I'll fix it or move on. I don't feel confident with bearings and that sort of thing so it makes me hesitate. I do however like the solid build of the drill, the weight and the 3/4 hp motor which they don't do anymore in favor of the freshest plastic China can produce on all new drills. So there is that to consider as well.