Hello from North East Ohio

Discussion in 'New member introductions' started by Old Jim, Dec 4, 2022.

  1. Old Jim

    Old Jim Copper

    I am totally new to casting. The only experience I have is making lead sinkers as a kid. I can’t believe my dad let a 5th grader use a gasoline blow torch to melt lead. Kelly, I ran across your videos on YouTube and was really amazed with the process and what you have accomplished. So, I thought I’d like to give it a try. I have a pretty well equipped old school machine/fabrication shop and should be able to build just about anything I need. There is a foundry supply in Twinsburg, OH that is willing to sell hobby quantities of necessary materials and that’s not too far from where I live. My intention is to build an electric furnace along the lines of Kelly’s low mass example. I have a 30A 240V circuit available in my shop which should work if I limit my build to 6KW. That would be 9.6 Ohms of #14 Kanthal A or about 45 feet. Wound into a 3/16” ID coil expanded by a factor of 3 yields an element about 132” long. That should give me 4 wraps around the inside of the furnace.
    Since I really don’t know what I’m doing I’d appreciate any comments and advice you guys may have. The refractory work is going to have to wait until better weather since the suppliers supplier won’t ship if there is a risk of freezing. Since this is Ohio that’s March. Do my heating element calculations seem correct? Kelly, would you use pumpable for your hot face again or would you use moldable?
    This should be fun.
    Old Jim
     
  2. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Welcome Jim.


    I think 3/16" is a very tight ID for #14. Mine are wrapped at 3/8" ID which makes for 1/2"OD. My 14g kanthal A1 was abot .21ohm/ft so I do agree that 45ft would put you at about 25a and 6kw with 240vac. You do want 3:1 coil stretch but preferably not more than 5:1. I have a Kanthal design handbook that has some guidelines for wound coils. See attached.

    That's a good question. Pumpable was really too runny and difficult to make it stay where you put it so it had to be applied thin and dry over night. It took a long time to build up thickness. Moldable is probably easier in that respect but more difficult to make conform to the mold. I do really like the low mass furnace, but that stuff is pretty expensive for something that large and if it isnt a lift off furnace, it's pretty fragile compared to other refractories and wont like tool contact.

    I had an approach using (2600F) ceramic fiber board where you would cut annular discs, machine coil shelf into each layer and stack them to the internal height. You would have 4 seperate coils, one for each layer. You run each end of each layer out of the furnace then connect them in series, if you need the resistance from the total length. Kilns usually use this approach. The advantage of this is you only replace a smaller section if one fails and it can ease construction. It woul dbe similar (low) mass and quite a bit less expensive than pumpable/moldable. I'm not quite certain hold well it would machine and I'm absolutely sure you wouldnt want to do it in your shop. I'd do it outside, where a respirator, and cahnge clothes and shower afterward. A long blade ina jig saw and finished with a drum/spindle sander would probably work well. The shelf could be cut with a razor knife by hand. If you're interested you can start a thread and I'll contribute.

    I've had dense castable refractory, Insulating Fire Brick, and the Moldable CF. I have threads for all three incarnations I can point you at. The latter is definitely my favorite but the IFB was a close second, and IFB is pretty easy to work. There's a reason why kilns use it. It's in between the mass of the moldable and dense refractory. It makes for a very practical electric furnace that is easy to build in a weekend.

    Best,
    Kelly
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Old Jim

    Old Jim Copper

    Thank you for sharing your expertise. I wound a test piece of #14 Kanthal A with a 3/16” ID. I was really surprised at how well it worked. No perceptible spring back. I really like the 4 separate coils in series idea. Just to be clear, are you saying you believe it would be acceptable to have the heating element in contact with the 2600 fiber board? If so, since my plan is for a 3 piece lift off furnace, that would really simplify things. I have no intention of machining the CFB. Just some of the metal pieces in the furnace rig. I’ll handle the CFB as you suggest, knife, jig saw and sander, outside, Tyvek suit and respirator. I’ll start a thread as soon as I get underway and have something to show. Probably after the first of the year.
    Thanks
    Jim
     
  4. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I'm surprised there is no spring back at that ID. It's at the low end of the recommended coil OD/Wire d, (top of page 9) but you are probably ok if it fits your power and preferred lay out. I bet it's very stiff to stretch. Pages 8-12 are the meat of it for coil design. Worth reviewing those 5 pages. Just keep in mid, they're just recommendations for max life. Though the temp in the vicinity of the coil is likely a couple hundred F higher, I have my furnace set point at 1800F which is plenty for aluminum and well under Kanthal limits. You much more likely to splash aluminum on the lement than cook it.

    The rating on the moldable pumpable CF is only 2300F and mine has been inservice with with bright orange coil contact for 3 years now.

    The reason I recommend 2600F over 2300F CFB is because it's denser and more durable. The stuff under the skin tends to be less bonded.....the 2600F is better for cutting features like the coil shelves. A 10" Bore furnace is a nice size. Being a lift off, mine can handle an A20 which is a fairly good size crucible and at the upper end of what I want to handle free hand. I use an A10 for most stuff and the furnace could be a little smaller for that. Four courses of 2" thick board with coil shelvescut in the top so the coils are captured by the next layer, followed by what ever you need on top without coils for needed (keep element in lower 2/3 of furnace) height would be a good starting point.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  5. Old Jim

    Old Jim Copper

    Thank you for the feedback and advice. After having read the heating element design handbook you referenced I found out that 3/16” id is too small. 1/4” is toward the upper end of their recommendation so that’s what I’ll probably use. The furnace wall loading works out to be 1.96 kw/ft sq. Well within their limits. The element surface loading however figures out to be 55 w/in sq, about twice their recommendation. Your 8kw furnace is about 82 if I’m calculating it correctly. So since your’s survives at 82 mine should be okay at 55. I’ll get what I have in mind sketched up and posted for further comment.
    Thanks
    Jim
     
  6. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I have two seperate 13.5 ohm coils in my furnace that are 4kw each for 8kw total. Each coil is 63ft of 14g Kanthal. The surface area of each coil is 63ft x (12in/ft) x Pi x .062" = 147in2.

    4000w/147in2 = 27w/in2 coil surface load.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  7. Old Jim

    Old Jim Copper

    Thanks for clearing that up for me. Appreciate it.
    Jim
     
  8. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    A long time ago I started to write a build thread on the subject. You motivated me to complete it. It's now in the Furnaces and Their Construction subforum. Might be some useful tidbits in it for you.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  9. Old Jim

    Old Jim Copper

    Thank you. Sorry it took so long to get back but I’ve been out of the country and the internet was at best spotty.
    Happy New Year!
     

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