Hi, Jason invited me, so it's his fault ;c)

Discussion in 'New member introductions' started by Metal5000, Jul 16, 2019.

  1. Metal5000

    Metal5000 Copper

    Hi Jason,
    I stopped using compressed air because my compressor doesn't have a high flow rate, is very noisy and as it was operating at the limit of it's output, tended to undulate as the motor kicked on and off. This caused the flame to pulse and make that "I'm going to flame out on you" noise, you know the one.

    It looks like your gas pressure is about the same as mine in the workshop. Converted for your 7" of water is .25 PSI.

    I was just trying to calculate the maximum theoretical BTU output from a pressure of 0.2 PSI of NG. But I got stuck trying to find a way to convert pressure, to flow rate, to power. All I was wanting to work out is:-

    If I run my furnace at it's maximum output of 130000 BTU, how much would be left over for the kiln?
     
  2. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Good question Matt.... I'm running half inch pipe carrying my 7" wc and it's about 40feet from the meter. Anything more than that is a wild ass guess. What it actually can put out is irrelevant to me. In my forge, it will hit welding temps so it should have no problem melting a pot of bronze. My current setup is pretty close to perfect for my current needs and unless something happens, I'm not screwing with it until that day.

    Having an electric kiln is actually really convenient. It's the first thing I flip on when casting. By the time I get all the rest of the crap setup, my shells are nearing temp. By the time the metal is melted, shells have reached 1700 and it's go time. I've never had the pulse thing from a compressor. I've got a 60gallon and it's not stressed at all running just a siphon burner. It did give me a scare once when it didn't feel like coming on.:eek: One swift wrap on the pressure switch and away it went.;) (guess I should check the contactso_O) Now, dewax is a whole other animal. I might do something there in future similar to Zaps, but I want a preheated chamber that I can load stuff from the bottom and up into it. For now, I'm boiling out shells in water and the weed burner as a backup.

    Matt above hit the nail on the head. Restrict a fan and watch the amps drop. Funny how that works.
     
  3. Metal5000

    Metal5000 Copper

    Hi Zapins,
    I had watched some videos from a guy called Barry Luke on YouTube and he had a large kiln for ceramic shell burnout and firing, very similar to yours with the two swing doors at the bottom. He too had a problem with the steel bucking due to the temp. I can't remember how he solved it, but I think he did.

    I'm interested in your temperature controller, SV Seeker had made a makeshift propane burnout kiln. Well it you couldn't really call it a kiln, it was just ceramic fibre blanket or something. Anyway I looked for the video but there are a lot to go through.
     
  4. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Barry is a friend of mine down in BR. I visited his place one day. Super guy and he's got a good setup. Zap saw that video too. ;)
     
  5. OMM

    OMM Silver

    Jason, I have a pretty sick fetish with watching my electrical. I need to be mindful of my neighbours as I share a 55 kVA transformer with four other neighbours. I’ve had some friendly neighbourly complaints when I’m starting a 20 hp motor, my neighbours lights, so do mine.

    240 single phase on the right, 240 3 phase in the middle and 600 V three-phase on the left (not displayed, because displays cost an arm and a leg at that voltage).

    9C1E3287-E86A-4234-8795-E209DF72DA63.jpeg
     
  6. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Can't you complain to the power company?
     
  7. OMM

    OMM Silver

    I wish...! Residential code states you cannot/should not operate more than 5 hp on a residential property. Complaining is like shoot myself in the foot. I start my big machines when other people’s lights are out.

    The largest delivery I’ve ever seen for a residential (with farm) 25 kVA with 2 200 amp services on their own dedicated transformer.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2019
  8. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Ahaaa... At least you can get 3phase! I'd have to rent a commercial property to get that. Time to make friends with the linesman. I suggest lots of free beer.
     
  9. Metal5000

    Metal5000 Copper

    Hi OMM,
    Thanks for the appreciation! The odd shaped casting on the home page is a dough mixer blade prototype casting. My customer had already 3d printed the pattern, filled, painted and sanded it to a very high standard. He was also aware that this would cause problems at the burnout stage but was happy to go ahead regardless. As paint generally has titanium dioxide in it, this was never going to burn out. I blew out as much as I could with air, but there was still a lot in the mould.

    IMG_20190607_191259.jpg
    As a goodwill gesture, I TIG welded the defects up as best I could, this is my first ever try at welding aluminium!


    IMG_20190613_131317.jpg

    Not perfect, but I was quite pleased with it.

    About the bouncy castle blower, that is a very interesting idea! I totally understand where you're coming from with this. I might have to do some tests to see if the induction motor gets hot without air flow.

    Cheers.
     
    OMM and Jason like this.
  10. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Have you tried boiling out a shell yet? It's been making my burnout almost a non-event these days... Looks like you are running remet slurry and we have yet to have someone try it with that stuff. (ZAP:p) It works with R&R stuff.

    Edit... Forgot you guys are running PLA. :(
     
  11. OMM

    OMM Silver

    I don’t get three phase. I transform it from single phase 240v using a RPC (rotary phase converter). I do this mainly for my 600 V Machines. Most of my auction buys that are 230 V three phase I use a single phase to three phase VFD (variable frequency drive). Then I take advantage of the soft start (Vfd’s provide) , not the hard start most Motors tend to have on the electrical system.
     
  12. Metal5000

    Metal5000 Copper

    Lots of good information here guys, I'm having trouble keeping up o_O

    Jason, I did see your video on ceramic shell boil out, really good video, and backed up by a university too. But like you say this would only work with wax unfortunately.

    I'm actually using Wexcoat binder with molochite stucco from Special Plasters in the UK.
     
    Jason likes this.
  13. OMM

    OMM Silver

    Ian... i’ve made/repaired parts similar to your mixer. The quick change adaptor always seems to fault.

    Most of the time I can weld them up and re-machine.
    632FE814-8B41-46EA-8A1A-EC5BF09D3230.jpeg 8275378E-8957-4D51-8828-110E3C6E3906.jpeg BE80391A-8082-4884-A17F-6FFAAF331DF8.jpeg 0F0D347C-28DF-407B-ABBD-4D3226660D82.jpeg
    Usually most of my stuff needs to be stainless steel for the food industry. So, if I can’t fix it, usually, I’ll make it from scratch.
     
  14. Metal5000

    Metal5000 Copper

    Hey Matt,
    That's one serious corkscrew, you should make a glass fronted box with the message "IN CASE OF EMERGENCY BREAK GLASS". The wine bottle would be even more impressive ;c)

    So I'm guessing that this is an arbour to push some kind of food paste through a die or something? The forces at play must be very high to cause these things to break. I know with the dough blade the issue is that the forces are going to be very complex as it churns the dough. But that is why my customer wanted a prototype. The eventual production part would be in stainless of course, not something I'm looking to get into just yet.

    How much harder is stainless to weld than mild steel? They make a big fuss online about it being really difficult and needing back purging and the like.

    Do you make the helix? CNC?

    Thanks.
     
  15. Jason

    Jason Gold

    It welds exactly the same as mild steel. The trick is lots of argon and don't put too much TOTAL heat into it or you cook out the chromium and that's what makes it stain less.
    If you don't need 100% penetration, there is usually not much need to back purge. Just avoid that fat clown on weld.com channel unless you want to see the biggest
    joke of a stainless lesson. The fabrication channel on YT has the best guidance on welding stainless I've found. Jody at weldingtipsandtricks is excellent too.

    ah WTH.... everyone could probably use a good laugh. Watch this guy cook the ever living hell out of this piece of metal. Hilarious!
    Look at how slow he's going. That puts way too much heat into it. That would rust in 2 days outside.:rolleyes:

     
  16. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Stainless was just as easy as normal steel to tig weld.

    I saw that video with the gas kiln and used it for inspiration for my kiln. Made a video on it:

    My temperature controller is basically from svseeker's design haha. I went to help him a few months back with welding his shelves and doing the hydraulic pipes and had a look at the burner. I think it will work well once finished.

    Haha yeah Jason, boiling freaks me out. I see it works for you but damn man that's scary.
     
    Jason likes this.
  17. Jason

    Jason Gold

    chicken shit. Run a test piece.... something small. Point everything up towards the cup.;)
     
  18. OMM

    OMM Silver

    Stainless steel is even easier to wild than mild steel with TIG or hand laser. I only run aboat 25-30 SCFH argon with top cup. He was putting way too much heat into both welds. If that material was prepped better I could’ve done it with almost no filler rod.
     
  19. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Yeah I totally agree, that thin stuff could have been autogenous welded. I would have cranked the amps up and hauled ass as fast I possible across it.
     
  20. OMM

    OMM Silver

    It is, most of the time, lighten up on peddle(/amps) and let the proper heat do the work for depth/penetration. If you over amp, you get burnt marshmallows on back side. This YT post was only applicable to exhaust pipe where thin, and back side is not accessible. Purging back is stupid if you hav access. This application would only be used in manifolds.
     

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