Match Plates

Discussion in 'General foundry chat' started by John Homer, Aug 2, 2020.

  1. John Homer

    John Homer Silver

    General question.
    I just finished my match plates. Used a poly resin with plywood. What should I coat the plywood with to protect it? I have heard just a regular shelac. Any advice is appreciated.
     

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  2. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Gold Banner Member

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  3. HT1

    HT1 Gold Banner Member

    I see My input is in place .
    still do it the same way,
    well over 100 matchplates hanging in my rafters

    V/r HT1
     
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  4. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold Banner Member

    I've gained a real appreciation for that filler primer. Very fast drying and sands like a dream as described. I use the Rustoleum brand. Way better than having to wait a day or more for top-coat paint which sometimes never fully dries to a workable finish (humidity).
     
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  5. John Homer

    John Homer Silver

  6. HT1

    HT1 Gold Banner Member

    I have trouble with the rustoleum nozzles clogging (shrug)
     
  7. John Homer

    John Homer Silver

    Fix to that is to turn can over and spray until it quits misting with just air coming out. If it still does it use a little mineral spirits on a rag and wipe the nozzle off.
     
  8. HT1

    HT1 Gold Banner Member

    rustoleum has the spray upside down cans now. use the whole can or you are SOL


    V/r HT1
     
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  9. FishbonzWV

    FishbonzWV Silver Banner Member

    Are you going to put your runner and gates on the drag side?
    I drill a shallow hole in the cope side to hold the sprue which aligns with the runner.
    When you pack the flask and pull the plate, it's ready to pour.
     
  10. John Homer

    John Homer Silver

    Nice... I am not sure about the runner and gates. Concidering putting the runner in the cope and gates in the drag. Thoughts?
     
  11. Billy Elmore

    Billy Elmore Silver

    Id use regular Johnson's wax to coat it all..plastic and wood. Looks like you are limited to one side with ingates..whichever side has the thicker part off of parting line...I guess the decorative side...I would make the drag. Usually put the runner in cope but it doesn't make that much difference if you are pouring cast iron. Just make sure you dont have any loose sand in mold.
     
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  12. John Homer

    John Homer Silver


    Thanks for the tips... I am pouring silicon bronze and magenese. It's been a while in the planning but we are getting closer to the pour
     
  13. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    I also like Johnson’s wax on my patterns. I also spray with silicone release spray. Especially so if I am making a silicate core using the pattern. The bound sand releases very well and reliably with wax. Green sand releases well with wax and a talc dusting.

    Denis
     
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  14. John Homer

    John Homer Silver

    I will give wax a try.. thanks
     

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