Do you think this micro fuel transfer pump might work as a diesel pump for the furnace? 7 psi and 35 gph. I wonder if it would handle being choked down with a needle valve to supply the normal 1 to 3 gph we need. What do you think? https://www.ebay.com/itm/163951976565
I think the pressure that heating furnaces run at is 60 psi..... I imagine that it is for atomization.
Yes, I think it will. I used something similar for a good while on my Hago Siphon diesel burner. And it was OK. I eventually bought a Holley fuel pump that cost 5 to ten times more but it is a much more robust build. The cheapie gave out mid-melt and I had to scramble to rig a shakey step ladder to raise my fuel can to provide pressure so I could complete the melt. Not fun and marginally safe. So, I bought the Holley. It provides ten pounds pressure, has internal bypass and provides me piece of mind. Yes, that one will work. I think it would be wise to have a backup pump ready for quick install or have a setup to provide quick elevation of your fuel tank sufficent to provide pressure in the event of failure. When my diaphragm pump failed the diaphragm disintegrated and bits of it fouled my fuel flow meter which interfered with fuel flow and measurement of flow besides failing to produce pressure. So bypassing the fouled up system was a real scramble. Denis
Depends on the type of nozzle, siphon type nozzle, probably yes, conventional type nozzle, almost certainly no. As DavidF suggests, a conventional nozzle needs a fair bit of pressure to operate properly, you're going to want to double check this but I think the gph rating on nozzles is the flow rate at 100psi. Most automotive fuel pumps capable of putting out high pressure (i.e. for fuel injection) use the fuel flow to cool the pump motor so restricting the fuel flow with a needle valve could cause the pump to overheat severely reducing the pump's lifespan. Most cars have a fuel pressure regulator which returns excess fuel to the tank thus maintaining consistent flow through the pump. If you're going to use a conventional nozzle and decide go the automotive fuel pump route, this might interest you, it's a fuel filter for a 2006-2009 VW 2.5L, it's reasonably priced and has a built-in regulator, you can see the 3 fuel connections, fuel in at one end, regulated fuel out and fuel return at the other end. With a filter like this, you could put a needle valve on the output without reducing the flow through the pump. This particular filter is available with either a 4.0bar regulator or a 6.4bar regulator. Side note: I'm intimately familiar with this particular filter, I used to have a 2007 VW, when I replaced the fuel filter, the auto parts place gave me a 6.4bar filter when my car required the 4.0bar filter, the car ran fine but it produced a cel that I couldn't clear until I installed the proper filter.
Took the words right outta my mouth! Zap could work a bypass back to the tank to keep the fuel flowing. On the flip side, he could try limiting the voltage to it. If he gets a couple of years outta it, good enough. Everything is disposable JUNK these days, I wouldn't try crossing the Kalahari with that fleabay pump..
Older nonfuel injected cars did not use a bypass system. The pumps simply were connected to the carb and provided low pressure gas in some cases 3 pounds and in some 6 or 8 pounds of pressure. The pump shown is a low pressure pump for just such a vehicle. So, it is delivering 1 to 3 gallons per hour fuel to your furnace or to a carb. It will be ok. Higher pressure pumps will be bypassed and my Holley has an internal bypass. But older carbureted cars—-no bypass. Just fuel pump, filter, carb. I confirmed that at my local auto parts store. Still, you wouldn’t expect a long lifespan from a cheap pump. Mine lasted for a couple hundred hours before failing. Whatever pump you use, do use a fuel filter as the last and unbroken link to the burner. If you don’t you’ll be sorry. Denis
Good point Dennis. The electric SU fuel pump in my jag goes click click click until the floats shut off at the bowls. The pump maintains pressure until fuel is used up. One way to find out is to try it, cheap enough.
That could work, I know that some cars have eliminated the normal mechanical bypass type pressure regulator and instead use electrical pulse wide modulation on the power supply to the pump to control the output pressure of the pump.
I kinda favor simple. Just get a cheap one and hook it up, or get fancier and add in a bypass, or just get a better pump with bypass in it. The Holley pump I have is vane type and much more reliable and has the bypass included. The one I bought is rated for both gas and diesel. That is a point worth paying attention to. Many, perhaps most, are for gasoline only. A gasoline pump will not appreciate diesel as the rubber used is not resistant to diesel. Denis
At any rate I'd heed the advise of having backup equipment or process for anything that might fail. My old kirby finally bit the dust once and for all a couple weeks ago at a very inopportune time. Luckily I had a leaf blower and a roll of duct tape handy. I have one of those noisy little air compressors as well in case my primary goes. Pete
For a conventional high pressure nozzle, I think a fuel pump like this, together with the 6.4bar filter I posted above would be a good combo. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224303905066
Hi Made a small step toward building a burner. The Japan electromagnetic pump has a male BSPP outlet. Today I made a female BSPP to SAE Flare fitting. Why?, because I can. The alternative would have been to connect a string of adapters together. Next I am going to work on the blower. I have a motor and I have a fan. I just need to connect them together.
