Play name that part!

There's probably plenty of excess capacity on that chip, if so, it wouldn't take much more than a speaker, a few bits of wire and some clever programming to make it play bad music.

 

That's the girl from Ipenema! Here is my channel for the best in elevator music. https://somafm.com/player/#/now-playing/illstreet

 

I wanna power up the transformer today and see what happens. If I can get it to do the switching, I might have it half sorted out.

 

There is life! I guess I'm currently in the ladies wear department..


And now I know what stop looks like in chinese.


The little board lights up different shit when I hit the buttons.

 

I finally have my head wrapped around the logic of this thing now. That black thing that sits on the hydraulic pump is a solenoid. When the limit switches are in the correct position, (Floor 2) and I select down, it becomes magnetic. So there is the down function. When down in the mens department, I hit up and the contactor comes alive. Pretty easy really. It just comes down to when and where the limit switches are.

As cool as the elevator junk is they won't make it. Neither with this computer controller thing either. I can use these limit switches to control the functions of the VFD going up. With a relay or timer, I can control the solenoid going down.

The only question I have at this point, Does a big ass electric motor REALLY need a contactor if it's running on a VFD? Adding a contactor to a VFD can be tricky due to timing. You stick it in front of the VFD and all you do is remove power to it and get to wait for it's perimeter check BS. Place it after the VFD and you risk no load issues.... I don't have one on my 2hp bridgeport.. Then again, it's not a 7hp monster running a hydraulic pump.

 

Found this online.... Makes sense to me.. No contactor!

"Contactors are not required for the line or load side of a "Variable Frequency Drive". Bypass contactors are the exception. Contactors are sometimes used for E-Stops on line side but they are not needed. The control circuit in the VFD should be disabled for E-stop. Opening a line contactor will not allow electronic braking or possibly not allow a motor brake to energize. Pumps and fans usually do not have any braking involved.

Contactors should never be used on the load side of the VFD. The current spike associated with closing and opening of contactors is not conducive to proper VFD operation. They will trip the drive out.
Contactors on the line side were widely used on older and some current DC drives. The manufacturers of these DC drives encourage and sell these contactors.
That is why you see contactors on the line side of VFD's. People either leave the contactor in place when they convert to AC, or they install one thinking they need one.
You will need to protect the input section of the VFD using the input current and voltage listed on the VFD's nameplate. Use the VFD input rating, not the VFD output rating. They will be different.

Some will use a contactor on the line side to start the motor. This is not advisable. The VFD needs some time to power up. It must check itself before it will send power to the motor. Just like your PC, except much faster.

I never install a disco on the load side unless it is specified for lock out. Disconnecting the motor from the VFD while in operation will also trip out the drive. This could be an issue if the operator cannot reset the VFD. Makes for easy service call.....LOL.
Note: Some constant torque VFD's are sending current to the motor even when the drive is stopped. ( to lock motor shaft).
That is why I only provide disconnecting means on the line side of the VFD.

The output section of the VFD is considered seperate from the line section, as it may use more current and or voltage to operate the motor. The VFD is the protection on the load side.

The 20hp fan motor is a variable torque application as are the pumps. Variable torque applications are not treated as constant torque and use smaller VFD's.
Example: 20hp motor uses 15hp drive."

 

Looks like I got f-d in the drive through. I pulled out the new VFD tonight and the fan cover fell off the back. AND IT WAS DIRTY! So I tried it anyways. It's DOA. It wouldn't move the motor fwd or in reverse. SO I robbed the little VFD off the mill and tried it. No problem spinning the motor backwards. So I flip it to FWD and the lift comes up 1/2" and the vfd shuts off. At least now I know the VFD I got is junk. Of course the fleabay seller is ignoring me. So I bought another off him. Now he can deal with my visa card next week when I stuff this bad one up his ass.

Looking at the motor, I noticed they had it wired in Delta configuration. Something told me it should be in Star, but I can't remember what is correct. Anyone have any thoughts how to wire it? The VFD is for a 10hp motor.

 

If that motor is 220V in delta mode then it'll be something like a 380V motor when star connected. I can run a 415V star connected motor as a 240V delta motor for inverter use. Unless you have a 240V inverter you'll have to get another motor.

 

So Mark I should put it in Delta right? I have a 10hp VFD

 

Delta will always allow a 3 phase motor to run off the lowest voltage it can run off, in your case 220V. So in star it'll be a 380V motor and 220V in delta

 

Excellent. thanks Mark for clarifying the muddy water. I'll switch it back to Delta.

 

I put it back in delta and put my little pussy vfd back on it.

OMG WTF do I do now?? lmao!

 

So now you have to activate the solenoid with 12V-24V with a power supply on some leads a safe distance away.

 

I put 24vts and it came down.. pretty damn fast for my taste. I'll slow its roll too. lol

Still cant believe my little vfd ran it. I looked again at the big one, its serial numbered. I know exactly how to fix crappy ebay sellers.

 

BOOM! I'll add rubber bumpers later to the feet it rests on.

 

That laugh at the end of the video is what I'd term a "Triumphant cackle". I'm wondering what kind of mechanical safety interlocks like a ratchet and pawl rack so it'll hold full weight at any extension if a hose leaks, kind of like what the car hoists have. I've seen it save a guy who was lifting Landcruiser troop carriers on an ancient two post hoist when one side failed and cocked the brand new 'cruiser over at an angle. Is the VFD old or new, but it's been sucking Chinese workshop crud for a few days?.

 

Safety locks?? HA, not a damn thing! Here's my plan for that. First is I'm scrapping the chinese hoses for some quality American hoses we make right here. I will admit, it's a bit spooky being under it with only the hydraulics holding it up. Let's assume there is some kind of fluid lock happening inside the pump, but I still don't trust anything. The lift will spend very little time actually in the UP position. Mostly only for loading a car to go down in the hole. BUT with that said, I figured out today how to add a couple of swing down 3" pipe that will allow me to lower the lift onto them to take the weight off the actuators if necessary. Also, I have a spot that it rests on that needs to be welded up. There is a strange hole where it should rest on with no real explanation except they cut it out to install one of the big rollers. How bizarre is this? Not a big deal, I'll weld in some new 1/4" plate. Then I can put some hard rubber on them so I don't get the big BOOM!



The dead VFD was sold as new. In the video, you can hear the speed of the motor change as I went from 35hz to 45hz. If I pushed that little vfd any harder, it would stop and error out. I definitely need the bigger VFD.

 

It'd be possible to make a laser cut steel ratchet wheel like the one in this video and cut it in half and mount the half wheel at the center pivot of that X formed by the two moving arms on one of the arms. On the other moving arm you mount the spring loaded pawl to engage on the ratchet teeth along with a solenoid to disengage the pawl. The solenoid will only be strong enough to disenage the pawl if it's halfway between the teeth and it can't physically disengage if there's any weight on it, so it has a safety interlock built in by nature.

Laser it out of mild steel plate, make it as large a diameter and as thick as will fit. Have a pawl that engages two or three teeth at once for redundancy and clamp it all to the steel box section with bolts rather than weld or drill the steel and weaken it.

 

Would it Clack clack clack on the way up?? I'm thinking gravity operated kickstands and retractable with a hand cable? lol..

Took a peek in my dead VFD.. Look at this bull shit. The fan not spinning was a good indication something is rotten here. I peak under the label and what do we have? These little bastards really will do some questionable bullshit if given half a chance. There is a strange smell inside this thing too.

 

Yep.... so called "refurbished" inverter, most capacitor makers will list a lifetime measured in hours for the filter capacitors before they fail spectacularly. Yes it would clack clack, and the lack of the sound lets you know something's wrong. The smell is venting electrolytic caps so it's a write off.