School me on sand (greensand and LF)

Discussion in 'General foundry chat' started by Fulmen, Sep 19, 2020.

  1. Fulmen

    Fulmen Silver

    While I prepare for the furnace build I figured I should start learning the rest I need to get started. I plan on starting with lost foam as I do mostly one-offs (already started designing a hot wire cutter). But it would be silly not to learn about green sand as well while I'm at it.

    So, how complicated have you guys managed to make this? ;)
    I see most specify quartz and or silica sand, which technically isn't necessarily the same. I've also seen olivine (IIRC a magnesium-iron silicate) sand mentioned. But are we talking "high silica/quartz content" or pure (95% +)? Or put another way, what would be a waste of time to even try? Remember I'm in Norway so I can't just order a bag of foundry sand.
     
  2. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold Banner Member

    Here are the keys to the kingdom:
    https://www.hnsa.org/manuals-documents/single-topic/foundry-manual/

    No, it's absolutely not a waste of time to try. My greensand is white sandblasting silica sand. It's fine but I don't know how fine. My neighbor had about 75 lbs of it, so that's what I used. Mixed with bentonite clay, I think 8% or 9% by weight. I think my water runs about 6% or so by weight. It's been awhile because I switched to petrobond (oil bonded sand) a few years ago. It worked ok as far as refractoriness but my surface finish was never great. I had a choice to either refine my sand mixture or invest in petrobond. I was lured toward petrobond as a cure to the inconveniences of greensand which it is to some extent, but it's no panacea. So, yeah, go for it.

    Pete
     
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  3. Fulmen

    Fulmen Silver

    Cool, those old manuals can be real gems.

    Edit: WOW, that book looks awesome. A real "Get Shit Done With What You Have" book. Exactly what I need.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2020
  4. Fulmen

    Fulmen Silver

    One problem is finding fine enough sand. I have a few options (sandblasting/filter sand) in the 25-70 mesh range, but that's about it. Most sources seem to recommend 70-140 mesh, and although I suspect coarser would work fine for coated LF it would be nice to standardize on a single sand for both green and LF. What about natural sands?
     
  5. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    The coarser mesh will be fine and even preferred for LF. Most critical thing for LF is that is remains dry so it can be efficiently vibrated/packed. FishBonzWV has used a winnowing technique to separate the fines in sand. Basically showering in front of a fan which disperses the sand on a tarp from coarser to finer the farther away from the fan.

    Natural sands may be ok but it depends upon the level of organics and other potential contaminates, the latter creating more problems for higher melt point metals which either melt or gasify the less desirable species in the mold material. Coated LF will be less sensitive because of the coating layer acting as a barrier.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  6. FishbonzWV

    FishbonzWV Silver Banner Member

    This is the setup I used to refine sand from the big box stores for green sand.

    IMG_3823.JPG IMG_3825.JPG IMG_3826.JPG

    Put the sand in a bucket, slowly pour a cup at a time on the board and let it bounce into the air stream.
    The heavy grains will be closest to the fan.
    Fold the tarp over to consolidate the sand into a line.
    Divide the line into thirds.
    Bottom third becomes lost foam sand, middle third is backing green sand, top third can be facing sand.
    Or, just divide in half and use top half as green sand.
    You can do a bag in about five minutes.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2020
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  7. Fulmen

    Fulmen Silver

    Clever. I have collected a couple kg of playground sand so I can get a feel for the different grades before I make a decision. I washed it with water to remove the bulk of clay/organics, after drying I'll try your trick for sure. I do have a couple of small sieves (only 4-5") so they're only good for grading samples. But it should at least give a resemblance of empiricism to things.
     
  8. Fulmen

    Fulmen Silver

    Wow, OK. I had no idea the sand you guys use would be so fine. What I usually call sand is way coarser, I probably washed out all the usable fractions when cleaning it (virtually nothing passes 120#). I really should have known better, because I always found it weird that you could get such fine castings from what I thought of as "sand".
     
  9. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    The finer the better, at least up to a certain point. Greensand sand still needs space between the grains for steam to escape from the hot sand... I treat my 115-130 mesh facing sand like gold and only just barely cover my patterns with it because it's a 5 hour drive each way to get more, then I use my homemade 75 mesh greensand to fill the rest of my molds. Not every casting needs to be perfectly smooth so I don't always use the facing sand. Almost half of what I bought a few years ago has disappeared into the rest of my sand already.

    I think my lost foam sand is 70 mesh, fine enough that I usually skip the use of coatings since I don't use lost foam to make high performance parts.

    Jeff
     
  10. FishbonzWV

    FishbonzWV Silver Banner Member

    Petrobond is usually 140, it'll pick up a fingerprint.
    Only about 25% of the bagged sand is decent casting sand.
    That's why you need a quick process that will separate the fines from the rest.
    I've been there with a mesh screen, it takes all day to get a few kilo's.
    Wear your dust mask if you try it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2020
  11. Fulmen

    Fulmen Silver

    I don't really have any suitable fans, perhaps it's possible to use water to do this?
     
  12. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold Banner Member

    Ugh, wet sand. There is little worse than having wet sand and wishing it was dry.
    Once in awhile we have to get a little creative and start thinking outside the box. If every topic simply ends with "don't have one can't get one" none of us would get anywhere. Options? In this case: take the box fan out of the window while she's at work, thrift store, yard sale, vacuum cleaner or other appliance on the side of the road that might have a fan in it, etc. Follow me?
    You don't have to be a master fabricator or have a garage full of fancy tools or a big bank account. Those things all certainly help but the things we need are often things we've never needed before but are hiding in plain site.

    Pete
     
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  13. FishbonzWV

    FishbonzWV Silver Banner Member

    I don't know how you would do that.
    Besides, the sun is getting pretty low in the sky to be drying 50 kilo's of sand.
     
  14. Fulmen

    Fulmen Silver

    I know, wet sand is a drag. But then again any natural sand I can get will be wet or at least moist. The best I have found commercially is 25-140#, that should work but there will be a lot of waste.
    According to the all-knowing internet the settling velocity of 100# sand should be in the 1cm/s-range, so it shouldn't be too hard to do. I'm doing a little small scale test as we speak, and it looks somewhat promising (but messy).

    Come to think about it I do have a reversible "wet&dry" shop vac, I might be able to rig up something with that. Guess I have a few options to play around with.
     
  15. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    There you go! Keep the shop vac handy, stuff like that will be useful in all kinds of ways. you never know when you might want to build a big oil burner or try to blow all the black smoke out of the way when pouring lost foam or something.

    Jeff
     
  16. Fulmen

    Fulmen Silver

    Guess one is never to old to play with sand... Mixed up a pound of green sand using 8% of bentonite and appr 10% water. Seems to work fine, I can squeeze it into a ball that breaks cleanly. Here's a quick test of it's molding capabilities:
    Sand2.JPG
    Edit: Better pictures.
    What do you think? It's a bottle cap, and the ridges are perhaps 1/10" deep.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2020
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  17. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold Banner Member

    By gosh that's it! Use some parting dust to cover your pattern prior to ramming. It's to prevent sticking of the pattern as well as mating sand surfaces. Some use chalkdust available as chalk line refill from the hardware store. Put it in a sock to dispense it.
    Your sand may behave a little differently after its sat overnight and the water has really absorbed into the clay.
    Very nice.

    Pete
     
  18. Fulmen

    Fulmen Silver

    Yeah, it gave me a real "this makes sense" experience. Now I know what I'm looking for. I could also feel it improve with each try, the worked sand got more pliable. I'm sure a muller would be sweet, but that's too much equipment for me right now.

    I'll try to do some more work on water grading sand this week. I have plenty of natural sand at work I can use, and since it's wet anyways it wouldn't do any harm. The basic idea is to put a bucket in larger tub and run water in at the bottom of the bucket (nozzle aimed at the bottom to promote laminar flow). The tub would catch the fine sand while allowing the clay and most of the silt to wash off.
     
  19. rocco

    rocco Silver

    It's much easier to suspend clay and silt in water than sand so it seems to me like that sand washing method should be viable. Let us know how it works for you.
     
  20. Fulmen

    Fulmen Silver

    Here's my setup:
    DSC_0197.JPG
    The sand is then washed using a garden hose aimed straight down while stirring for appr 30 seconds.
    This is the result:
    DSC_0200.JPG
    Of course you don't have to empty the tub for each bucket. There are some coarse rubber granulate in the sand, but that can be sifted out with a coarse strainer.

    I also made a couple of videos (appr 15-20meg each) of how the sand behaves, it should give some indication on grain size:

    https://we.tl/t-h9nkr0qavW
    https://we.tl/t-doxPFnOA5k
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2020

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