Wax piston sprue extruder?

Discussion in 'Lost wax casting' started by Zapins, May 21, 2018.

  1. OMM

    OMM Silver

    Here is the answer!
    1/. We are somewhat between 56° to 57°, (but a little higher than 56 1/2° Just visually). So = 56°
    2/. We have passed the 35 minute mark, but we have not reached the 36 minute mark (but visually we’re almost 90% there). So = 35’
    3/. So then we find the line the best lines up with the other line (around the 90% of 60 seconds) and it is 50 seconds. The 45 has a little bit of a Jott and the 55 has a bit of a Jott. But the 50 lines up almost perfectly . So = 50”

    So 56° 35 minutes, 50 seconds ( or written properly as 56°35’50”)
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    Last edited: Dec 6, 2019
    Jason likes this.
  2. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Interesting mill info.

    I made some progress on the extruder. I think its going well. I don't think theres a lot of misalignment so far in the frame or barrel. Seems to be level and within 1 mm end to end lined up. I'm happy so far. Hopefully tomorrow I'll weld up the funnel and then the supports for the motor and gear box and a few other bits and pieces.

    Oh and I cut the hole in the barrel for the hopper and cut the barrel down to the right size and removed the happy yellow paint since it needs welding. At some point I'll buy more sheet steel and make a nice solid cover and maybe some wheels for it so it's easy to move around...

    The barrel should be removable if I loosen the straps I rolled with HF shit roller.

    20191207_022710.jpg 20191207_023420.jpg 20191207_023434.jpg 20191207_023445.jpg 20191207_022933.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2019
    Mark's castings likes this.
  3. Jason

    Jason Gold

    That looks like a winner Zap! You'll be pooping out wax in no time now!

    Thanks for the partial credit matt. I was warm.
     
  4. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Well I messed up. The screw fell off the table and is slightly bent out of shape. So I'll have to send it back to the machinist to finish it again so it fits in the tube. Ugh Murphy's law.

    Anyway I ran out of time on putting together the frame but still got decently far. I think it is nicely aligned. I may need to get an elbow coupling to be sure the gear motor aligns with the shaft. I just need to figure out where to get one.

    Got a hopper on it at least. All it needs is a few more struts and a spot to mount the gear box on. Might have to wait for another 2.5 months until my next break.

    20191208_022616.jpg 20191208_022634.jpg 20191207_172916.jpg
     
  5. Jason

    Jason Gold

    DOH! How is the clearance going to be after he "straightens" it out.
     
  6. A couple of V blocks on a solid table, a big ass G clamp and a dial indicator on a stand would soon sort that out.
     
  7. Peedee

    Peedee Silver

    I agree with above! Don't machine it square again find the bend point and 'hit' it straight again. We would do similar with bent motorcycle stantions between lathe centres.

    I think that hopper is going to hang up on you but your there now so give it a go. if it doesn't work out bring the angles in and loose the feed pipe and butt the hopper straight to the pipe intersection
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2019
  8. Come to think of it.... the spiral is going to make finding a subtle bend difficult with a dial indicator. A quality straight edge and a light source a few metres away would let you spot surprisingly small deviations from straight (well under a thousandths of an inch).
     
    joe yard likes this.
  9. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Ugh I know. Fricken Murphy and his damn laws. Messing everything up. I'm upset about it for sure.

    The bend is very small. I tried whacking it with a rubber mallet to straighten it but don't think it made any difference. The amount out of round is tiny. I'd guess less than 1 or 2 thousandths in one spot near the base of the screw. It just causes the screw to bind. Maybe if I drop it on the ground from the other direction....? Haha

    I was wondering about the hopper and that pipe. I'm hoping it doesn't bind. I'll be feeding it with tiny 2 to 3 mm pellets of wax, so hopefully it doesn't bind up.
     
  10. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Blue it then rotate it in the tube to see where it is hitting, then sand down that spot if it's not really big...
     
    Kurtis Kiesel likes this.
  11. OMM

    OMM Silver

    I am a little bit old school. Why not just roll it on a surface table with a feeler gauges? If you don’t have this, Hyspot blue or just a broken pen will show high interference fits. Remove the highs and the lows seem to follow.
     
  12. joe yard

    joe yard Silver

    chalk in the tube will work
     
  13. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Alright so I decided the feed hole wasn't big enough so I cut out a large section and welded a square tube to the barrel. I found that the screw barely can't go in all the way. Likely due to some minute warpage around the welds I did. The amount is very small and it appears to be only across the top wall of the tube across the opening. I'd guess its 15 thousandths out of line in that one area. Since my screw is tightly cut to fit it only goes in half way.

    To fix this I could take a small lathe cut off the screw but id prefer not to do this if possible.

    I was wondering about engine cylinder hones. I see they are for sale cheaply at HF. Would they be able to hone the slight distortion out of the barrel or are they not abrasive enough to do the job?

    I'm thinking one of these:
    Screenshot_20221016-170802_Chrome.jpg

    Also here is what I have with the barrel.

    20221016_171050.jpg 20221016_171031.jpg 20221016_171008.jpg
     
  14. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Wellll I bought the hone, which didn't work at all for removing the warp. It did clean up the barrel nicely though looks Shiney and whatever but screw didn't go in.

    I put it on the lathe and took successive cuts and kept checking it and eventually it fits. Seems to be fairly tight still but I'll have to see if the extra material I removed causes leaks around the screw. Ugh hopefully not. Will see.
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  15. mytwhyt

    mytwhyt Silver

    Hadn't read the thread before now.. Started at the beginning and read it through to the end.. I admire your skills and persistence for the last4 years.. The first line makes me wonder, Do you still think this? "Thinking about how easy it would be to make a sprue extruder."
     
    Zapins likes this.
  16. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Aaahahha. Yeah maybe not as easy as I thought it would be. However! Once I have a workable design figured out it would be much easier for the next guy/gal to make one using the info.

    I'm to the point I think I can do test runs tonight and see if it works at all. But I'm nervous it won't do anything. Will see soon hopefully and let you know.
     
  17. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Ok need a bit of guidance.

    This is the motor ill be using. It is a 90v DC input 1/2 hp motor. I have a dc controller that puts out 90v dc. My question is do I need a power supply to convert the 120v Ac wall current to something the motor uses or do I just directly wire the motor to the controller and let the controller convert. I'm leaning towards directly connecting to controller based on the info panel on the controller. But what do you think?

    20221017_182849.jpg 20221017_182904.jpg 20221017_182818.jpg

    Hmm. Gotta give this a think...
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    Last edited: Oct 17, 2022
  18. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Well I couldn't find a manual for the exact controller I have but a similar one from the same company is here: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...wQFnoECBEQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1ZfX3WIObztINQMRzvgobg

    On page 37 the circuit diagram shows the following diagram. So I'm thinking the black/wite wires from the AC line connect to L1 and L2 (don't think it matters which way around). Then A+ and A- go to the motor. Seems straight forwards enough.

    Screenshot_20221017-191001_Drive.jpg
    My question now becomes do I need to put a fuse in the ac in line? Is that what the controller is saying on the back panel?
    20221017_191527.jpg
    I checked another DC controller manual that is not a fincor and they have a diagram like this which shows a fuse on both the ac in line and the motor line. I'm not sure if I need this? Screenshot_20221017-191608_Drive.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2022
  19. FishbonzWV

    FishbonzWV Silver Banner Member

    Zap,
    The controller has a fuse on the top that fuses the AC input. The Armature output has a couple of fuse links on the back of the circuit board that look like little metal plates behind the E terminals that are below the big terminal strip.
    The motor should have 4 wires, 2 Armature, 2 Field.
    The controller is pre-wired for 115vAC and 90v DC out, so no jumpers to change.
    I would get 12/4 SO cable and use a piece for input power and a piece for output motor power.
    Fincor.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2022
  20. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    So no fuses to add to the wiring? Just connect up AC, armature and field wires? (I didn't even realize the motor would have field wires) but I'll open it up and make sure. So it sounds basically plug and play?

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2022

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