I'll try dig that diagram up when it is time. Is overload protection something built into the motor or is it an external device I need to order?
Over here we use something colloquially known as a starter for most motors, usually a contactor with a zero volt coil and an over current breaker stacked on the side. Some windings have a thermal break tucked in them but unlikely in this case. I personally wouldn't be too troubled running that straight off a suitably fused supply given the application but some might feel differently.
Hmm. Still a bit hazy on what is needed. Zero volt coil flux capacitor... In simpler terms, do I run a wire from the 115v wall to the speed controller then internally wire it correctly for the 1/2 hp motor and connect it directly to the motor? Or do I need to buy or make a zero volt coil and insert it somewhere in there? When you say appropriately fused power supply do you mean plug it into a power strip with a fuse? Or the 115v breaker fuse? Or a separate power supply like a laptop charger or battery charger? Sorry for the repeat questions I must have skipped that class in school
Pat is probably right, but I'd still just plug it in. I'm kinda stupid like that. If it starts to get hot, shut it off.
Putting the wiring on hold for now. I sprued up the screws. Ready to coat them now. I'm gonna go do that now. Resuspending 10 gallons of settled shell in a bucket isn't fun.
Think your going to want to increase the size of the shrink bobs/ pouring wells... unless the picture is deceiving me??
Ahh well. We'll see what we get. Already done the first coat. Getting ready for second coat soon. They are hollow wall thickness is about 1/2" so hopefully not a ton of shrinkage. I can fill defects with rod if needed as long as there aren't too many. Maybe I'll save one screw incase the first one fails then I can make modifications and try again.
Hi Zappins Once again another sleep deprived post. YOU WERE WARNED! Please excuse the very poorly made 3 minute waist of your life rambling video along with errors on this post. I am glad to see the screw casting is coming along nicely. I have been quite occupied as of late and have not commented or posted in a while. Things have been quite hectic around here. This is a warning to all who are just thinking about cleaning your shop big or small. If you are just thinking about it, DON’T! I decided to clean mine after lets just say some years. As of now I am have many hours of work in it with many to go. The dirt mixes with the fumes and solvents to make home made Sin-Dirt! As most know it is a thick black film that can only be removed by bonding to human skin when touched or in the case of cleaning. A lot of Diesel fuel. It has coated everything and has made it impossible to enter without it leaving a stain on you that will not easily be removed. Not to mention too many sharp surfaces that can leave a mark that will make a memory that will last for a life time. In the video I had said I don’t get any help. I must now retract that statement. My son helped a bit last night and my wife has half way volunteered to help...soon? I think they have taken pity on me, or my life insurance has lapsed and they need time to make sure the check clears before it kills me. I am wondering and back to the subject. Originally I was Originally wanting to pull everything off of the walls, out of the cabinets, shelves along with the machinery, blow it off with air and then wash it with Diesel, sort and reinstall. The shop was to be down until complete. That is where the warning comes in. It is a monumental task to properly clean a shop. I have been on it up on 2 weeks now and if I do as planed. It would take another month or 2. Not to mention. It is killing me! For the plans have been scaled back to thoroughly clean all machinery, benches, tools, floor and any surfaces that come into contact with humans. If all goes as planed I should have the shop up and running again by the end of the week. The cleaning will go on for months but I just cant take and had severally underestimated the down time for such a project. I will clean the back room. Believe me, I will. Just after the shop. On the coupling. I will be watching the casting progress and will make it job one when needed. It wont take long. That part of the shop should be ready in a couple of days. Best of luck on the casting. Joe
Looks bigger than my shop! I just got through with rearranging, cleaning and consolidating my stuff. Took the better part of a week. Still a bit more to do but it's going well. At least j have room now to make projects. I find a constant problem is power cords running all over the floor. I really need to redo the power issue in the basement. Too little access to electricity, so I have to constantly unplug and replug things to avoid tripping something. I need to make the effort to sharpen my axe and then go visit the town electric code guy and come to an agreement. That bastard has been delaying my electric redo project for years. Going to do more coating today. I want to get another 2 coats done today. I may be able to pour it soon in 3 days from now. But I'll need to build the new burnout kiln first or I won't have a way of dewaxing it all.
Your place looks great! I could not imagine living in a place where they inspect every plug you put in. If you do the work your self it does not cost much to run a new circuit. One of my very first jobs was an electricians apprentice, “Squirrel”. We did residential only. In that line of work a new guy is either a gopher or a Squirrel. Believe me. You would rather be a gopher but I learned code and it saved some later head each. In these parts anything coming out of the breaker box is not required to be inspected but you had better be up to code if you ever have a fire. My shop mess is my own fault. I bought a 30 year old shop that had been used and abused without proper cleaning. Then moved in my stuff that had bean treated the same or worse. It did not fully sink in until in one of my post I put. I am both proud and ashamed of the shop. The ashamed part was from being lazy, lack of maintenance and poor house keeping. So I decided it was a good time to start spring cleaning. Little did I know that it would actually be spring before the cleaning was finished. Jason had a thread a short time ago GOT LIGHT? That mad me look at the dismal lighting in the shop. Originally I had the cheapest 4 foot florescent lights but they were short lived and did very poorly in the winter so I started using the led 10 watt, 60 watt incandescent replacements on plug strips. That worked but is very ugly so I started looking at led strip lighting and found these on amazon. Hykolity LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT 20W 2000lm, Flushmount Linkable LED shop Light, Utility shop Light, LED Ceiling& Under Cabinet Light, Corded Electric with Built-in ON/Off Switch- 6 Pack by hykolity 4.2 out of 5 stars 31 customer reviews | 21 answered questions Price: $38.99 A 6 pack end to end is 24 foot so I bought 6 - 6 packs or enough to make 3 runs down the main room of the shop. The main room is 25 X 50 foot. My eyes are not what they use to be and if in the unlikely event it is to bright I can always turn a row off. With all this in mind the cleaning has begun. I work very slowly so it will take at least a month or possibly two before it is finished. Even then it will be no place near were it should be. It has been many years since I had a home foundry. I have I think it was a second printing of the 1983 Gingerly charcoal foundry that I bought in 1985. I first built an electric version and later a charcoal scaled up version. At that time the internet was not around. This left me with a basic working knowledge of green sand. I had not seriously considered getting back into a foundry until I bought out this shop and found a furnace lining and some long out of date worthless refractory. Since then it has been on the top of the to do list. Things just keep getting in the way. The cleaning and repairs as of late have much to do with this goal. After the shop and back room is cleaned. It will be time to look at serious work on the sheds. Around 1.5 cubic yards of cement and some effort along with a little wiring and they will be back up to acceptable. For that I will get a little help. It should not take long. I have decided to put the foundry in a 100 year old dilapidated 10 X 14 shed. I plan on bolting ½ of a 10 foot fiberglass satellite dish on each end making it a 10 X 24 foot oval. I will cover that with some old galvanized metal I have had for years. It has 1, 110 - 20 amp dedicated circuit that runs a security light running to it right now. I plan on branching off of it. If I watch my lighting and ventilation power draw. I should be OK with just that. If not, it is only around 30 -40 foot from the 200 amp panel in the shop and I will just run a 50 amp 220 line. Being a pack rat I have plenty of wire and used panels for just such an occasion. Joe
Yeah, light makes all the difference! I'm outfitting the work area in the jewelry shop right now with 14 of those 22w 3000l 6500degree bulbs. I'll be all too happy to throw those stinky ballasts in the trash. For 8bucks a 4ft tube, I love them! Last week I did the fixtures in my attic at home. So nice now when it's 30degrees to walk up there, hit the switch and instant light. No more waiting for them to heat up. Don't toss your old cheapo fluorescent fixtures. They are perfect for this modification. https://www.ledmyplace.com/products/t8-4ft-22w-led-tube-6500k-clear-3000-lumens-single-ended-power
am rather excited to try them. I have never seen one but figured at that price. I could not go wrong. I do not have any experience in lighting other than hang the light and turn it on. It will come down to 60 luminous a square foot. From what I can find on the internet this should be a good amount of light for a well lit work area. The lights arrive Thursday. I hope I have things ready to put them up by then. Joe
The screw is poured. Decent casting. The core stayed intact somehow. No breakage. Functional for sure. I sand blasted the outside but still need to use a concrete drill to ream out the inside of shell. There are a couple surface defects not sure why or if I should bother to tig repair them. The total diameter is 78 to 79 mm in diameter depending on the direction I measure it in. The PLA print was 80 mm wide so this is roughly the expected shrinkage. It has another 2 to 3 mm more that it can be machined down to fit inside the cylinder. That will be the next challenge since I didn't get the surface plate made like I had wanted during this trip home. What I find interesting is that you can still clearly see the 0.2 mm individual printer lines very clearly.
Filled in the hole at the tip and a void that I found under the pouring cone. Next step is machining it. I also need to cut the hydraulic cylinder to fit the screw and figure out a thrust bearing to mount inside to take the strain off the gear reducer.
You'd probably get away with a steel stub shaft going into a hole drilled in the end: it is bronze: a bushing material with high pressure wax lubrication .
