Ruby Casting (verneuli flame fusion)

Discussion in 'General foundry chat' started by Zapins, Apr 21, 2021.

  1. BattyZ

    BattyZ Silver Banner Member

  2. My apologies: the blue board is a single full bridge driver unit and to control a stepper you'd need two full bridge drivers and some control logic. I had to look up the data sheets for the parts used in the photos. In other words it can't readily be used with your controller board. In my defense I was in a hurry to reply and thought the Ebay seller's description was accurate. I'll have a look around online for a more suitable board.

    Edit: This unit has all the desired inputs and outputs to interface the controller to the stepper:
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/233958320103?hash=item367900a7e7:g:IEYAAOSwPPZgD6mA&frcectupt=true

    Edit2: This appears to be the board referenced in the wiring diagram for your controller board.
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252215743485?hash=item3ab93ad3fd:g:GDwAAOSwlV9WTiqA
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2021
  3. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    No worries I'll have a look at that part you linked there.

    What's the blue board supposed to be used for? Maybe I can use it for a future project one day.
     
  4. It's a "H Bridge" driver board with 74HC244 octal buffer for adding enable/disable input. A H bridge is a set of four transistors used as switches, two at a time to connect something to power and also reverse the power. So it could be used to power a DC motor with forward or reverse rotation for example.
     
  5. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

  6. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Some small update pics. I welded the bearing block to a plate and sand blasted it clean. Also my 3d parts arrived. Trying to figure out the best placement and how tall to make the cabinet for the raising mechanism. I think 6 to 8 inch long crystals are about the max I will probably need but having some extra room in the cabinet might be nice.
    20210622_222211.jpg 20210623_215357.jpg
     
    BattyZ likes this.
  7. Six to eight inches???, you planning to build a high energy ruby laser weapon? :eek:o_O.
     
    dtsh likes this.
  8. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Nah but that seems to be the size they are grown in.
     
  9. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Ok I'm confused. I've looked up dozens of images but can't figure this out and I feel like wiring it incorrectly is going to burn something out.

    From what I can gather I just connect the motor speed controller pul, dir, ena, to the pul-, dir-, ena- on the motor driver. I think.

    The part I don't understand is what to do with the pul+, dir+ and ena+. Many diagrams seem to wire them all together in series and then put them into the speed controller board. But I don't understand why. Many diagrams have one. Two or all 3 in series but I have no idea which configuration I need. Any ideas?

    Ignore the 4 wires on the bottom of the driver they go to the stepper motor and I think they are correct. Just the top ones are confusing.
    20210625_202821.jpg

    Also what are these for? Do I need to change configuration?
    20210625_203515.jpg
     
  10. BattyZ

    BattyZ Silver Banner Member

    So here is how I have done it:

    Pul, Dir, Step from your control go to Pul+ Dir+ Step+ on the stepper driver.
    The negatives of these three wired to the electronics ground. (like you were saying you saw)
    The ENA+ I wire to a 5V lead from the PSU (usually an old PC that I am using), the ENA- to ground.
    This way your driver is live when the psu is. I usually run a switch in between to turn on/off, you could also wire a estop in series here.
    Then the steppers per coil pairs:
    Best advice I got, spin the motor freely by hand, then take one wire and hold it to another wire, if the motor has resistance you have found a pair.
    Wire the pairs A1 with A2, B1 with B2 etc
    Switch direction by switching one pair.

    Oh, then the dip switches set your microstepping and amps per the diagram.

    Cheddar? (midwest speak for sound good?)
     
  11. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Little confused still. To the positive? This diagram has it opposite. But its not exactly my specific parts.
    tb6600-wiring-diagram.jpg
     
  12. BattyZ

    BattyZ Silver Banner Member

    If that is what they spec then try it? There should be diode protection from back-volting.

    From the diode drawings on the picture of your driver this shows to be the case with the diodes. Would also show to group the negatives. Either way it looks like your protected...
     
  13. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Ok. Makes sense I wasn't sure what those symbols were on the case. I'm also not sure if its group the positives or negatives like you say but I guess I'll go with group the positives like above picture.

    What about the switches at the back? In the pic above it has 1 2 3 4 5 6 and on and dip?

    Also how do I set the voltage for the driver and for the speed controller? Or is that automatic after connecting the 3 wires together to the 5-12v port on the controller?

    I have a little power supply left over from my 3d printer upgrade, so I will use that in this project.
     
  14. Those diode symbols with the tiny arrows on the side indicate opto-isolator inputs: an LED input driving a phototransistor. So you would connect all the negative (-) minus terminals to ground (-) and wire the three positive positive (+) terminals to your corresponding controller board outputs.

    Your diagram in post #71 shows wiring for "active Low" operation where the signals have to be logic "low" or connected to ground for the input to activate.

    Edit: The reason for using active low switching is that you can directly connect an opto isolator input to a microcontroller's I/O port without needing a transistor or IC buffer as most micros can "sink" more current to ground (logic low) than they can "source" positive current (logic high) on an I/O pin. When you have to drive multiple pins high and source enough current to drive LEDS with them it can quickly exceed a micro's limits and cause problems.

    stepper.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2021
  15. BattyZ

    BattyZ Silver Banner Member

    Well said Mark!
     
    Mark's castings likes this.
  16. Thanks!
     
  17. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Haha flux capacitor. Got it: connect the negatives together.

    With post 74 I lost you a bit there but does that mean the way the pins are set now is ok? Or do I need to turn them to a different configuration to work?

    Looks like it is set to do 8 steps and 2 amps
     

  18. I googled the part number of your stepper and came up with this specification: https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/1141536/STEPPERONLINE/17HM19-2004S1.html
    It say 2 Amps per phase and I'd be inclined to set it to one step/200 pulses per revolution to begin with, so for your DIP switches it would be :

    1. on
    2. on
    3. off
    4. on
    5. off
    6. off
     
  19. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    How does changing the steps / pulse change the motor function? Does it speed up or slow down the rotations? Or unrelated to that?
     
  20. I'm not sure, I think it may be dividing the input pulses by the values listed on the first column of the chart to slow the stepper down.
     

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