1956 buick build

Ugg busy day. Had some nice weather today and continued stripping and blasting.
Off to the showers now to rinse the coal slag out of my crack. Sand blasting is nasty crap, next time I'll just pay someone else to do it...

 

Looking for another passenger door. This one is more work than I feel like getting into.

 

Getting there....couple more weekends of body work/ sheet metal replacement and it will be time to set the engine and trans in, then pull the body off the frame.

 

Managed a few hours in the shop today. Working on the passenger side some. Although its nothing fabulous, it is progress.....

 

Little eye candy for motivation. Found this one on the web and downloaded it.
Gives me that climbing the rope in gym class feeling

 

Few more hours in today. Made the c pillar for the passenger side and welded it up.
Should have waited to weld it in, I was tired and made some boogers thats going to take me a bit to grind down
Clamp happy??

 

Like the ride height and stance on that one.

Best,
Kelly

 

My $100.00 stainless steel snail hangers showed up today.... not bad at all.

 

Yea, there is a few things that could be better.
Honestly though if I had built them myself they would have cost me four times as much in materials and atleast a weeks worth of time.
So I'm not complaining one bit

 

It's another one of those areas where pragmatism is better then rigid theory when it comes to street cars. You can rarely package the ideal primary length and in the rare instances where you can, you usually introduce a lot more heat to the engine compartment. If it was a track car where you're trying to shave fractions of seconds.....maybe, but for street car those design extremes can be silly. Interestingly, cross plane V8s can be more sensitive to collector design and length.

As a guy that ran a fabricated tube and pipe business, $100 price expectation for those would have been a very short conversation......no bid. Don't know what level of engine compartment finish you are shooting for but you still might consider ceramic coating them. IMO, the claims of reduced heat transfer for those coatings are greatly exaggerated but they cosmetically stand up very well, as long as they don't get wrench dings. The stainless will already reduce the mount of heat transfer but will turn gold/tan on the primaries.

Best,
Kelly

 

Well, I finished off all around the rear glass and moved onto the right front section of roof
Made a Template before I cut it out. I dont think this is going to be as bad as I thought
But ill be glad once I get past this point. Once I do things should start progressing more quickly.
We will see how it goes tomorrow...

 

Thanks Zapins, I've got plenty of beer in the fridge if you ever want to swing by and drive yourself crazy fighting rust, but I think ESC would be a better one to learn from.
Or if beer isn't your thing, I still have a jar of granny's cure for covid (or whatever else ails ya)
Also works well for starting campfires and degreasing car parts.

 

Sheet metal repair is like icebergs.....always so much more below the surface. But once you start, you cant stop only fixing some of it. Soldier on.

Best,
Kelly