1st part, floor grate

Discussion in 'Lost foam casting' started by Mburtis, Apr 3, 2025.

  1. FishbonzWV

    FishbonzWV Silver Banner Member

    Since you are just learning what your furnace can do, now would be a good time to start timing your melt as I explained in your previous post. With experience you will be able to look at a pattern and judge how much time is needed for a complete pour.

    LF is a different casting technique and a lot of the guidelines from the manuals don't apply. It's a different thought process that takes time to get used to.

    Looking at Tops latest model, I would add ribs/runners on the two top edges that would be machined off. Those would channel more metal across the pattern.
     
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  2. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold

    Agreed. Between the (Tops) model and hotter metal you should be good to go. With your pattern flat, the metal had to meander an awfully long way through an awfully thin cross section, losing heat all the way. With the new model you’re pretty much supplying fresh hot metal continuously right where you need it. You’ll likely get a dimple on the face at the cross, but I think it’ll be a small price to pay. You could add a riser of sorts at the cross, but I don’t think it would be worth the additional labor.

    Pete
     
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  3. ESC

    ESC Silver

    Gravity is your friend with lost foam.
    As mentioned above, most of the greensand rules do not apply.
    Check your casting in the drain to check the shrink and the placement of the ribs. It is so much easier to carve foam rather than aluminum.
    That is a great first LF pour.
     
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  4. Mburtis

    Mburtis Silver

    I did try it and it fit OK, could be a tad bigger so I'll adjust that on my new pattern.
     
    Tobho Mott and Tops like this.

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