Another noob question- delicate/thin part removal from mold

Discussion in 'Lost wax casting' started by AGELE55, Feb 20, 2021.

  1. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Been getting my old images off photobucket.
    This was my first foundry... wood fired..
    Untitled-1.jpg

    And here was one of my earlier attempts at what I called not so lost wax casting.
    It's a hand carved connecting rod in wax, and a pop split mold.
    05-30352a8a1ff021ae82261aff769d023f.jpg 06-42d6d0efc942027d12da938a03c37daa.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2021
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  2. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Now here is the interesting part. The mold was burned out but not properly, so there was alot of moisture still bound in the mold.
    Here is a photo of the 3 pours I did before the mold had cracked into too many pieces to be usable. Each pour drove the moisture out and the casting got better and better.
    Left to right, first second and third and final pour...
    07.jpg
     
  3. AGELE55

    AGELE55 Copper

    Well it is inspiring to know that others have also started at the beginning and muddled their way to success.
    I think the moral of the final pic is to invest in investment.
     
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  4. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    .....and/or maybe a temp controlled burn out kiln, metal contact pyrometer, and some good casting stock.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
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  5. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    My first set up was pretty crude, a wood fire, steel crucible, and play sand with ground up kitty litter. I didn't produce the best of castings, but I sure did have fun!

    The real key is the burn out. Even with good investment you have to make sure it's burned out properly.

    And a induction furnace... oh wait that's what I want. Lol
     
  6. AGELE55

    AGELE55 Copper

     
  7. AGELE55

    AGELE55 Copper

    Will a toaster oven really work for burnout?
     
  8. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    It's a work around. I had decent results back in the day with one. You have to leave the mold in there for atleast 24 hours on burn the shit out of it setting.
     
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  9. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Figure most toaster ovens will probably hit 450degrees. Now imagine letting that thing run for 24hrs! Here's a good idea, do it in the driveway or on the patio.
    I don't trust anything I can buy for 8bucks at an Amazon resell store.:eek:
     
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  10. bill

    bill Silver

    The wife didn't get one of those...:eek:

    There is also the flower pot method that I have used a few times but that was before i made the temp controlled electric furnace for about $140

    I found a reference to this method somewhere and I wish I could credit them but I forgot where I saw this.

    You need a flower pot (preferably dry or slowly dry one) that fits over the burner section of the coils, not on them or over the sides. They say wrap aluminum foil around the pot to keep it from cracking.

    The flask for the trigger guard should fit within the pot so place the flask on the coil but on something to raise it above the coils.
    Place the pot with foil over the flask and let her rip.

    There is a lot of truth to that statement... and flask size does matter when considering your time/temp. Also are you steaming out the wax or will removing the wax be part of the burn out cycle.

    Most all if not all commercial jewelry, dental and general purpose investment require temperatures above 1300° F
    This should explain it.... https://www.ganoksin.com/article/wax-casting-burnout-cycles/

    I believe I read that you now have a better way to read/take temperatures so I would give this a shot very cheap and it cant hurt... LOL

    Here is an old coil burner that is preferred for this method
    old.PNG

    This is not....but it's what I used and it worked fairly well...

    (This isn't the one I used. Mine had tighter coils but was the same style)

    new.PNG

    Edit: I forgot to mention I have also done the high temp part of the cycle in a propane furnace.

    Put the flask in a clay graphite crucible inside the furnace cover it with cast iron and keep your eye on it. You will need to learn the color of different temperatures. IE: 900°-1400° F Plenty of refence on goggle...
    Turn the furnace on and off as needed to maintain 1350° as best you can. I have done this three times and though each time there was a different challenge the castings came out okay.
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2021
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