how to correct this casting defect???

Discussion in 'Sand Casting' started by HT1, Aug 13, 2020.

  1. FishbonzWV

    FishbonzWV Silver Banner Member

    I find it hard to believe that 5 seconds to push a pin in the sand would hold up your production line. :)
     
  2. Billy Elmore

    Billy Elmore Silver

    Agree 100%! They still trying to sale us filters even though we have reduced inclusion scrap down to 1 to 2 percent on most jobs. We would need roughly 1100 filters per hour on a good day..one per mold. Think they were trying to sale one that was around 40 cents a piece. It would take a heap of scrap savings to accommodate 440$ an hour.
    We also have very small light weight castings and have had to use an array of different designs to get good scrap rates. AFS is generally just a good starting point.
     
  3. HT1

    HT1 Gold Banner Member

    well the alternative is to fix the pattern once and never worry about it again... you know like forget to push in the nail, because you have over 100 patterns ... again, K.I.S.S

    well if the bandsaw blade grabs the work, using the technique you recommend, at best you break a Bandsaw blade, at worst you loose a finger... I've had my finger sewn back on once already , so i'll pass on that method .

    V/ r HT1
     
  4. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Well then, put the gate in a vise and use a porta band to cut it off.
    How are you currently removing your gating?
     
  5. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Whats wrong with an angle grinder??
     
  6. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Nothing if it can get into the area. Last parts I had a horn gate on had the gate located between mounting studs. Or if the the casting is larger and the gate is located further in than the radius of the cut wheel. Band saw makes less dust and i hate the taste of copper in the morning :eek:
     
  7. HT1

    HT1 Gold Banner Member

    in this order, mostly because of cost
    1) Hacksaw
    2) sawzall ( I stumbled across Litterally a tool box full of blades in a yardsale for $20)
    3) angle grinder
    4) bandsaw (this is the best way in many cases, gets what are otherwise impossible locations well, but blades are pricy)

    Professionally I have had to use one of these, wet abrasive cutoof saws , very spooky

    V/r HT1
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold Banner Member

    I've been using my horizontal metal cutting bandsaw in the vertical position. I run it low and slow and without the saw table on it. I use 12/14 variable tooth bimetal blade and it works great. Using just the 2x2 blade guide as a support I'm able to get pretty good maneuverability and leverage. I sit right down on the body of the saw and have at it with Hardy gloves from HF. The slow speed and gloves minimizes hazard and the wide open guides allows for pretty good side-shaving. Planning the cutting job and sometimes making starter cuts is helpful because sometimes you do have to back your blade out, but it's far faster, better, and more convenient than the vertical bandsaw. It's become one of my "central machines" (no pun intended).

    Pete
     

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