Kwiky burner with a twist

Pete, you got me running for testing! Thanks, I’m glad you did. I ran it up to 80 CFM, no whistling. At 60+ CFM there was a really weird hissing sound though. But... I plan on running it at about 40 CFM or less.

 

I inadvertently built an air raid siren while making my blower: it took a shallow angled fixed blade for the impellor to spin past to fix it (mostly).

 

I had the same problem with my blower in my woodworking shop. I made it from scratch. Then I made the blades backwards inclined. This reduce the noise tremendously.
It is 4 inches deep with the radial blades and 17 1/4 inches diameter. It has 1 1/4 prop blade 9 inches in diameter entering into the 9 inch duck work. It pulls almost 21 inches of water column in it’s closed state, and 2100 CFM in open on 6 inch diameter duct. It definitely could move more air. But I had to choke it using 6 inch diameter pipe to keep my amperage down. The motor is rated for 23 A and I have it running at fulltilt at 19 amps. When it starts it pulls almost 120 Amps. It is a 5 hp dust collector.


The cyclone and blower housing I made from Bill Pentz design.

 

I thought I might have come off as a bit defeatist. I'm glad you didn't take it that way. (But don't be surprised if it makes the neighborhood dogs act weird!lol!)

Pete

 

I think it's the backwards inclined involute curve that's the quietest and most efficient blade curve. I often wonder how a large diameter (better centrifuging of the air) turbo compressor would perform when driven by an electric motor at low RPM. Turbos require a large amount of energy to drive, fortunately the hot exhaust has that energy.

I wonder what a high frequency microphone and an oscilloscope would show of the 60+ CFM hissing.

 

I haven’t tried out the final burner yet. But I’m almost absolutely sure it will work just fine. If it doesn’t, I might have to pinch down the tip of the burn tube a bit. But...... In reality there is actually no burn tube.

I found I was limited with controlling air. So I increased the ID from .322”( with one copper wire 0.062“ dia. spin vein) to 1/2 ID (with 2 SS spin veins 0.031x0.125). Everything all calculated in, I should be able to increase the air CFM by over 300%. I can always dial it back using the board air ball valve.

I also tried to get rid of as many 90° corners as possible.

Every torch had its different,... its own personality.

I didn’t test them all to the same state vigorously... maybe I’ll venture that in the future but that’s not my goal!

Here is the evolution...




And the prototype thimble for adjusting the Bernoulli effect. This one was just press fit into a copper sleeve.



I owe a big thanks to a lot of you guys here.

I wanted something simple and small, with very few parts and easily replaceable. I wanted something that could be portable, run off my air turbine... with only 120 V feed. Yes..., I’ve upped the ante so my Main shop could provide the air feed required with a A blower literally 10 times the size with 1000 times the life expectancy.

I think I got what I was in search of. Thanks guys, and yes it’s time to start melting metal!

 

I forgot to show the water testing. I was making homemade snow.

 

Sounds just like Missouri. It will be 20 degrees one day, 70 degrees the next.

Sorry, I am new here and I realize this is an old thread. Came across this site while researching drip feed waste oil burner designs, and couldn't help but to comment.

 

Not to worry. The kwiky is a dead nuts easy burner. People tend to shit all over it because it require compressed air. When setup correctly, air usage is minimal and even a small air compressor can keep up with it. I gave up running used motor oil because jet fuel was cleaner and less mess. If you can soldier copper, you can build a kwiky. It's a good cheap burner with lots of tech support. Drip is fine, but the kwiky is easier to control, accurately!