Anyone have any idea? I found it in a pile of miscellaneous stuff. The screws all fit in the tube which gets capped. Each screw has a small hex which fits in the tip of the tube for driving. Maybe a maintance tool or part of an adjustment kit? No markings other than digits 1-2-13 stamped on it. Pete
I think thy might have been leveling screws for fixturing a part for milling or measurement. The part (a casting of course ;-) ) had holes in each of 4 corners. The holes were tapped to fit the 3/4” (guessing) plugs shown. Unthreaded 1/2” pins were located in a sub plate centered in the 3/4” holes and protruded most of the way up the casting holes. The plugs shown were threaded into the 3/4” holes and the recess in the plug fit loosely on the head of the pin. Using the driver/storage tool the worker leveled the casting for measurement or clamped it at that location for source milling. Comment: that the plugs were made to be stored in the driver is very elegant tool design IMHO. Denis
I dont know, but it seems like some kind of anti tampering plug. You screw them in and the center tit breaks off so the cant be removed. Possibly for a carburetor?
There called transfer screws. The ones you have are 1/2”- 13 TPI. I got about 10 packages ranging from #10 to 3/4 of an inch. If you have a blind threaded hole in a part and you’re making a plate or part to go on top of it. You thread all these in to the threaded holes then hit the plate. A centre pop will be on the bottom of the plate for each centre of the thread. you drill through from the backside and then counterbore back. they go hand-in-hand with spotting buttons and transfer punches. The tube container usually contains six transfer screws. On one end there is a threaded cap and on the other end is a little hex female to drive the screw into the blind hole and help for removal
Thanks guys. Lots of good insights here and Matt nailed it. I use transfer punches all the time. The tool Jason showed is the direction I was looking in so I'm not surprised to see something like it in the HVAC world. Pete
They are probably done on a horizontal cnc maching center, but could be done on a cnc mill as well... on a manual machine it would be easier to make them in two pieces and press them together. Thread the outer portion then drill, ream, counter bore the center for one piece. Then make the center portion from hex stock and press it in...
I have made many similar items on my manual mill. It is quick and easy using a collet index like the one pictured though there are also cheaper solutions that also work well like collet blocks and non-lever-action indexers. Just thread a segment of 3/4” round stock on your lathe and turn the little tit on the end. Transfer the stock to your indexer and mill the hex. I picked up my Phase II on eBay for less than half price. I use it often. I have made some upgrades to it to make it more rigid and precise than it is as manufactured. Though, for general use it is fine from the factory. Machinists had been efficiently making stuff like (and a whole lot more complex) than that for 150 years prior to CNC. Denis
Well, yes. For making a six, we can have a little race. you write the code for the part and debug it and setup the CNC milling center and then run a test part and then run the parts. I'll turn them and mill them. We'll see who is done first. Now, for an order of 100 or a thousand or ten thousand, CNC no question. But for onsie twosies.... Denis
Curious, can you put together a breakdown off the top of your head for the set up time and then the time for each machining step. Then the cost of the stock per part. Ps, I'm pretty sure I can beat your time
Stop "times up" Just ordered 17 of them in 3/8-16 for $41.65 from McMaster that will be here tomorrow.. Now that's efficiently
I'd choose O-1 tool steel so it could be hardened, it's cheap, and it machines beautifully. First thread an 8" length of 12" bar of it all in one operation. (15 mins) Turn the little tit (30 seconds for tool change and machining) Transfer to indexing collet tool and mill hex (2 mins) Return to lathe and part off (less than 1 min) Rinse and repeat. Realistically the job could be done in well under an hour. CNC might beat that including programming, tool setup with offsets, and actually running the parts. But, might point is with reasonable planning and decent tooling, manual machining is a reasonable option. There must be a reason nearly every machine shop has a manual milling machine tucked off in the corner. And that is for short runs where programming and setup time on CNC exceeds manual machining time. Denis
No doubt. But the point I was trying to make is that you dont go making parts that you can buy for 2 bucks. That's unless it is just for a skill builder project.. Still though, I think your times to make the part are way off.... You forgot... 15 minutes to find the tool steel you know you have 15 minutes giving your machines and tooling a quick wipe down before starting. 30 minutes looking for the tool steel you just had in your hand 15 minutes ago. 1 hour because the wife needed you for just one minute... 20 minutes to go over and sharpen up you lathe tooling. 15 minutes for a quick lunch break. 20 minutes staring at the work bench trying to remember what you were looking for 15 minutes ago.. 3 minutes walking in circles front of the lathe trying to think of if you forgot anything. And by this time the wife has another 1 minute project for you...
"15 minutes to find the tool steel you know you have" wild under-estimate, 1 day and a lot of swearing followed by ordering more and having to apologise to the neighbours. Also add, taking the wife to lunch for the afternoon as an apology for being the miserable bstard that has also upset Betty next door.