Need a Conveyor

Discussion in 'Other metal working projects' started by Jason, Apr 23, 2022.

  1. Jason

    Jason Gold

    OHhh.. I see your game.. Break 2inches and weld on OUTSIDE! My light is on, just a little dim some days. You guys are some pretty fart smellers.

    This could really be a game changer for me. It could allow me to use much smaller and easier sections of stainless. Just need to make a hand held version of this seam welder... Should we patent this one?
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2022
  2. crazybillybob

    crazybillybob Silver Banner Member

    Open source that bad boy. Sell consulting services.
     
    Jason likes this.
  3. After the weld is done, a discreet bit of sealant on the inside of the join seam would keep any nasty chlorides from wicking in and causing corrosion down the track. Come to think of it, it may be possible to run the rollers off a large old school AC stick welder. BillyBob is right.... pick up an agency for some handheld roller welder from Germany or Italy, casually point out to a stainless pool fabricator that he doesn't need to buy argon for his welds anymore if he buys your welder which by the way doesn't need a skilled welder.....
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2022
    Jason likes this.
  4. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Good call Mark to fill the seams with something like B1/2. That crap lives for decades in my fuel tanks. Surely it would tolerate chlorine water with ease.

    I wonder what kind of amps I'd need to blast through say, 12g stainless?? I think spot welding the seams prior would help with the warping. Having the metal broke just an inch away would also add lots of strength too. I saw some hand seam welders, but they were sticking tin foil together. Not sure what practical purpose that serves. I took a quick peek at the used market, all the stuff I saw was 400/440/460 with weights up to 18,000lbs. Gonna need something a lot more home made than that. How about a fat ass old tombstone? I think my in laws have one in a garage somewhere.

    Ya know, even if this idea goes in the fuckitbucket, It does give me another thought... If all edges of the panels were broken with one side at an inch and the mating surface at 1.5inches, I could still come along and spot weld them together. Then with the mig, weld that uneven lap joint on the back. This way, no one will ever see how much I actually suck at welding??? Again, lots of strength derived from the spot welds and the lap can be done in sections not to warp the stainless. Come back with the sealant and Viola! No leaks!
     
  5. Actually yeah, spot welding would give the mechanical strength and with the broken edge it's out of sight, some TIG and some sealant and you're good to go. I read the comments for the roll seam welder: it was 80KVA rated when welding that 1.6mm stainless sheet. I'd imagine if you run at 1/4 the speed they were using you'd be down to a more manageable 20KVA say 230VAC and 90 Amps mains input into a welding transformer.
     
    Jason likes this.
  6. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Here we go! Broke up this 9x3ft section with a 12lb sledge and said F this BS!


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    The guy at the depot said their big breaker weighed 90lbs. It actually weighed 67, but after
    a furious 4 hours, it felt like it was 670lbs!

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    Last little bit!

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    Found something that could be a footer running from the door to the back wall, you can kinda see it on the left side of this photo.
    I'll try to kick it's ass tomorrow. Funny how my SDS max looks so tiny stuck in the ground here. It's a bad larry and I'm loving it!
    My wife gave me a hand chucking a lot of this into a pickup and we hauled a bunch out tonight.
    A dumpster here and a dumpster there... Sing the song!

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    Last edited: Sep 17, 2022
    Tobho Mott likes this.
  7. Jason

    Jason Gold

    I did kinda F up pretty good. The red roll around should have been moved over to the other side. WHOOPS! I can see me somehow standing on a 10ft ladder to retrieve a damn screwdriver!
    SHIT ME! Moving it now is going to be a real PITA! That thing has got to weigh near a 1000lbs!
     
    Tobho Mott likes this.
  8. Tops

    Tops Silver Banner Member

    My back hurts just reading about it. Nice of the Mrs. to help with the rubble.
     
  9. You know this is pretty useful experience if you ever wanted to tunnel into a safety deposit box company over a long weekend...just sayin
     
    Jason likes this.
  10. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Shhhh.. You'll give away my plans! I was thinking I could actually stash away half of our congress trying to destroy our country as we know it!

    More good progress today. I am actually not getting rid of my floor in dumpsters city wide. I rented a couple of storage units only 5 mins from me and the guy that owns them needs all the fill and busted concrete I can give him. So the big chunks get tossed into a truck and the little crap gets shoveled into a dozen buckets. The trick there I learned is shovel into the buckets sitting on the tail gate. So ya only have to move an 80lb bucket once.

    Note the really hard looking stuff running up the right side of the photo and then towards the left behind the vac? Yup, it's some kind of footer.
    If the jackasses would have just used a little more rebar, there would be no need for this nonsense. I had heard they did this criss cross footer thing
    in garage floors, but have never seen it. It's real close to center side to side, but left to right seems to favor towards the front of where a car
    would be parked. I might just have to go and get the jack hammer again. :mad: The max is busting it up, but it's really slow going.

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    The plan is keep drilling a ton of holes and whip out the Dexpan. Hope this shit is as good as they say.
    I'm not really in the mood to dig up this footer at the moment. The holes are 10inches deep and still not busting through the bottom.:(

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    On a better note, I picked up a 20ft long piece of 1 5/8' square UNISTRUT for the princely sum of 20bucks DELIVERED! It's going to be the trolley system for the hoist to move dirt from the back to awaiting conveyor at the front of the garage. You ever price this stuff out???? Be sitting before clicking this link!!!!:eek: And that's just for 10 feet! https://rspsupply.com/p-216703-stru...tm_term=1101102233765&utm_content=Ad group #1
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2022
  11. crazybillybob

    crazybillybob Silver Banner Member

    It's not really a footer. It's called a beam. It adds greatly to the rigidity of the slab. They are common when building Slab on grade. It should be chocked full of rebar. The Beam will help the slab resist deforming if the ground heaves or more common in Florida disappears underneath the slab (sink hole). Texas is pretty stable but I know that concrete beams are big down there. Might be a building code thing.

    There's got to be a cheaper place to get unistrut. When I worked in manufacturing we built everything out of 80/20 and unistrut. And these were machines that built/tested Car engines. The folks that paid for that stuff were cheap so I know it wasn't that much for 10'!
     
    Jason likes this.
  12. rocco

    rocco Silver

    Homedepot, Lowes etc. all have their versions of unistrut, typically, they come in 10 ft lengths and go for about $35-40 per length.
     
  13. Jason

    Jason Gold

    I'm just tickled pink I got a solid 20ft piece. Now I don't have to join 2 tens.

    Now I wonder how deep this beam goes? It is harder than anything I've come across. I take it they pour it the same time they do the slab??
     
  14. Jason

    Jason Gold

    TEAR OUT! The holes are full of Dexpan. Let's see what happens in 24hrs.

     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2022
    Tobho Mott likes this.
  15. crazybillybob

    crazybillybob Silver Banner Member

    Depending on the slab size it should be 24" or 36" thick. The slab and footings/beams are poured at the same time (same day) Depending on the size of the job the beams and footings maybe poured first and maybe a different mix (higher PSI). This normally only happens on jobs that their going to need multiple trucks on. First one will be footer mix the rest will be slab mix. There are a few additives that you can add onsite but it still is normally done to a whole truck (or the second half of a truck ).
     
  16. Jason

    Jason Gold

    That's not really something I wanna hear! I poured in the dexpan last night at 3am. Now almost 12hrs later and not a single crack. :( This would explain why the stuff was near impossible to try to jack hammer. Hitting it with a sledge and I can tell the difference. It is seriously hard shit.:mad:
     
  17. Jason

    Jason Gold

    15hrs and I have this now. It's the only damage this stuff has done so far. I reactivated the other cores with more water. Finger crossed this stuff keeps working.


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  18. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Looks like I'm diggin. This shit only sheared the tops off. WTF, I drilled a good foot down all these holes? The second go only added a few more cracks here and there.:mad:
     
  19. crazybillybob

    crazybillybob Silver Banner Member

    dexpan works best if you can get 3/4 way through the material. It will also take up to a week to fully expand. good expansion usually happens between 24 -72 hrs.
     
    Jason likes this.
  20. rocco

    rocco Silver

    Just read the user's guide for Dexpan, it says, "small cracks can begin to appear as early as
    18 hours, but waiting for 36 to 48 hours will result in more extensive and wider cracks.....Allow 1 to 3 days for a Dexpan to full react resulting in larger cracks and more extensive fracturing.
    "
     
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