Ruby Casting (verneuli flame fusion)

Discussion in 'General foundry chat' started by Zapins, Apr 21, 2021.

  1. Jason

    Jason Gold

    That is how it works. I spray surfaces with it and heat glass directly on it. The glass doesnt stick, but will transfer some BN on it. It easily washes off with water. I've only run bn up to 2000 when screwing with glass.
     
  2. rocco

    rocco Silver

    If you want to know more about BN, check out the ZYP Coatings website, they have very wide array of products, sprays, brushables, pastes etc.
     
  3. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I use their product and like it but it is very expensive.

    http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/santa-is-a-foundryman.578/

    Be advised there are several different formulations. Some are basic and others acidic. The one in my link is the best release agent but it will rapidly rust/oxidize carbon steels if the metal is not heated (~350F IIRC), which is easier said than done because applying the coat rapidly cools the metal. For the best of all worlds they recommend a coat of the harder versions with a top coat of the Lubricoat-blue then burnish with a cloth. They have to be fully cured between applications or the basic will react strongly with the acidic top coat.

    I've been wanting to apply it to Inconel sheathed k-type TCs (instead of carbon gouging rod sheath) for metal contact measurement. Should work great until the coating gets chipped of compromised.

    Dunno about your application. -Your results may very.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  4. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    The inside of the powder storage chamber should be approximately room temperature. The only part that gets hot is the insulated burn chamber. I was looking for paint for the cool powder chamber. The small cone that funnels the powder into the top of the burner chamber needs paint to stop rust getting into the ruby. I don't think it will need to be a special paint. Just something that has a very hard surface that won't be a abraided over time and something that the powder won't stick to as it falls down.
     
  5. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    I made the electronics box for the speed dials. I had been dreading it because I don't have the right tools to make boxes and it is extremely tedious and unpleasant but its finished. Tomorrow I'll mount it using the little pipes off the front of the box. Then I will run the power cables up through the pipes.

    I also sliced my hand while making the box. There was a little ribbon of metal on the edge of the cut out sheet steel that caught my skin as I slipped by and got me good. This is a 'greater paper cut'

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  6. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    [QUOTE="Zapins, post: 40234, member: 14"

    I also sliced my hand while making the box. There was a little ribbon of metal on the edge of the cut out sheet steel that caught my skin as I slipped by and got me good. This is a 'greater paper cut'

    View attachment 17410 [/QUOTE]

    Box looks good.

    Tegaderm is my preferred closure/dressing for minor cuts just like you showed. It comes in cute little pieces individually wrapped in all sorts of sizes. But I buy a 4” by 11 yd roll that will last me for years. It allows the user to cut a “custom-sized” bandage and fit it to the wound. Since it is flexible and tenaciously adherent it will stay on even in a moderately flexed area like the location of your wound. You will notice that it excludes bacteria and maintains moisture so that healing is rapid and inflammation around the wound will be practically nil. All you need do is wipe off the skin to remove dirt and oil and apply the tegaderm. One piece usually will remain in place for several days. Example: When I had a gall bladder out-patient surgery a few years ago I followed the surgeon’s advice and used his recommended bandaid and antibiotic ointment for about a week. But the wounds( none longer than a cm) were somewhat inflamed and healing slowly. I broke out Tegaderm and the inflammation was gone in a day and the wounds quickly snapped shut. Good stuff. Also good to check your tetanus shot status. If more than 10 years, time for a booster.

    B2840E2F-02BB-4935-AE54-46FE4D78F000.jpeg

    It sounds like almost any rattle-can paint would do what you need. I do like lacquer’s fast drying and slick surface. Rustoleum makes a good one.

    Denis
     
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  7. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Yeah was thinking of getting some liquid bandaid (aka skin glue) but then I figured meh I'll just let it heal as it wants to, not really deep enough for stitches so I doubt it will get infected.

    Yeah tetanus is up to date. I feel like I get a shot every 2 or 3 years due to one injury or another.

    I'm really glad I finished that box. It was sapping my will to continue the project. I hate sheet metal jobs. I really need to make myself a proper bender so this kind of thing doesn't suck so bad in the future. That will be on my next mini project list.

    Finally the scrap yard opened back up. They were closed for a month since their metal piles were "too tall and unstable to let people in." Aka they had a ton of good loot and I couldn't dumpster dive for it.
     
  8. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Finished the electrics box. Will rewire it soon so it all fits nicely. The wires aren't long enough as is -.-

    I made one extra slot for a speed controller just in case I add a 4th motor in the future for some reason.

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  9. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Alrighty. Welded it onto the frame and required all the speed controllers with longer cable. Everything fits nicely. I'll install some cable ties later to keep the cables neat and out of the moving bits in the cabinet later. I'm pretty much finishing up the cabinet soon. I may need to put in some on/off toggle switches as well for the motors since I'll need to be able to turn them on and off at different points in the process.

    Which toggle switch type would be the best for interrupting the power? I'm guessing they'd need to be wired into the two power lines going to the speed controller (same as the touch switch)?

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  10. That case is a nice bit of sheet metal work, as far as toggle switches go, anything with the right amount of current rating, double pole-double throw (DPDT) will have two separate poles to switch both positive and negative rails at the same time which would be desirable. There are chassis mount toggle switches with a small mounting nut to mount the switch through a drilled hole in the sheet metal rather than soldering into a circuit board.
     
  11. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Made a new 4 ft tall mast post and mounted it to the cabinet. I experimented with the lever switches and figured out how to stop the motor the way I want. Started making the holders for the lever switches. Got them all tapped. Will figure a way to weld them tomorrow to the case. Maybe to a bolt or something.
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  12. Peedee

    Peedee Silver

    Quick suggestion, don't weld on that thing with the electronics in place. Pull them out and then do your mounts etc. (You probably know this but thought I'd mention it)
     
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  13. crazybillybob

    crazybillybob Silver Banner Member

    I'd bolt the switches. Makes making minor adjustments to position easier.
     
  14. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Yeah definitely.

    Maybe attaching it to something like one of these legs would work for an adjustable platform? Could probably clamp it down with some force and make it rigid for the lever switches to sit ontop of. I think if I used allthread I'd have issues adjusting the height as well.
    s-l640.jpg
    I picked up 3 different road signs from the scrap yard today. All in mint co diction with the paper on them. Pretty neat decoration for the garage.

    Though maybe I should buy all 30 of them. If I can figure out how to remove the painted foil layer stuck over the aluminum backing thats a crap ton of expensive mint condition aluminum sheet metal that I could use for projects... what do you think?
    20210716_174218.jpg
     
  15. I have a batch of similar signs with a plastic layer and printed photos, it peels but not willingly, so I was going to hit some with a hot air gun to soften it up if needed. Otherwise I was going to just leave it on and paint over it to get good corrosion protection.
     
  16. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Anyone have a source for reasonably priced fireproof glass? Like the mica stuff they had in old fire places or some other kind of glass that won't melt. I want to make a view port but don't want to pay through the nose for a small fragment of glass for a peep hole.

    Fused silica glass or quartz glass are probably what I need.

    Maybe this will work?

    https://www.amazon.com/Bruce-Charle...qid=1626501123&sprefix=fused+quartz+&sr=8-106

    Or

    https://www.amazon.com/Fused-Silica...ed+silica+optical+glass&qid=1626503335&sr=8-3

    Do you think a 2" diameter window or a 4" diameter window would work better? 4 might let out too much heat through the glass but I'm unsure if that even matters since the gem grows only where the flame itself contacts the gem and that doesn't really get affected by the surrounding enclosure. It's not like our furnace where we need the reflected heat to melt the metal in the crucible.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2021
  17. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Tidied up cables with ties and built the adjustable lever switch holders.

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  18. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    Thoughtful build. Nicely documented. Anxiously awaiting the trial runs.

    Denis
     
  19. Zapins

    Zapins Gold

    Same same. I'm stalled a bit. I need two tubes rolled out of sheet steel 7.5" dia x 10" tall and a 7.5" dia x 14" tall but I am having trouble finding a local place to roll it for me. I don't own a slip roller unfortunately so I'll have to ask all the local machine shops if they can do it without charging $200 for the 4 minute job. I can even provide the sheet steel precut.

    Will see what I can scrounge up but I'm about 5 days away from another month of 14 hr / day 6 day / week night shifts. So I think I may not be able to get a lot done during the next month if it requires going to shops during the daytime.

    If they try scam me with crazy prices I will probably just "rage buy" a slip roller machine and do it myself which will delay me from buying a milling machine.
     
  20. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    I have a 12" slip roll. I'd do the small ones for you. Can't do the big one. So no help I guess. Could a piece of pipe be pressed into service? Could two 7" tall rolls be tigged together to make a 14. I could do 4 small pcs. Like you say, doesn't take much time to roll them.
    Denis
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2021
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