You tested the output @93v dc. The jog/run switch is just two pins attached to the PC board. That one is not configured with the reverse switch. If the motor doesn’t turn with a battery, pull it apart and check the wires to the brushes. Clean, bright, and tight is the mantra when dealing with DC voltage.
Couldn't find the exact circuit board diagram. But I found one model up. I posted the link to it a few posts back. Will test the motor directly when I get home with the battery charger to see if it works
So the motor works when powered by the dc car battery charger. So the controller isn't working. I'm going to try buy a new fuse for the speed controller and see if it works. Might have to buy another controller if it doesn't work. Would a 400 watt capable controller work for the 1/2 hp motor?
This seems awfully cheap bit specs look like they'd work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1628367129...rH12+Yo6o/xnW/ExgBIrBT/w==|tkp:Bk9SR4ig68eFYQ
It MIGHT work, if it was me, I'd use something more like this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1652585008...O74BvrnmW/VjXvvP7xdYSnPhI=|tkp:Bk9SR4KD_umFYQ (Sorry about the LONG link.) I've used those little KB drives before. They are relatively easy to set up and they'll last forever if you treat them right. I've seen these things run basically 24/7 for years. Don
For future reference, you can delete everything after the item number, iow, https://www.ebay.com/itm/165258500882
Good to know. I have used the kbic-120 before but they seem to have trippled in price recently which is why I was after alternatives. I guess I can keep an eye out for a good price and snag one. I still don't know why the controller I have isn't working. It looks to be in perfect condition. I can't see why it shouldn't work.
I dug into my Controller, these are new units and are not completely wired. The wires coming from the speed control pot and from the Run/Jog secondary contacts are just tucked into the shrink tubing. I pulled them out and started troubleshooting the TB2 terminal. I found +10vDC on pin 7 so it looks like the Pot hooks to pins 6,7,8. The Run/Jog secondaries, I don't know. The schematic for a newer unit shows a pick path(red box) for relay K using the Run/Jog secondaries. This allows a remote start/restart and the contacts(blue box) of relay K enable the controller. The Run/Jog wires would go here. What I can't figure out is what terminals to put the Run/Jog wires on. We need the correct schematic for the 2301P1 controller. I can't find one. If anyone reading this has a 2301 controller in use, go pop the top off and take a picture. Terminal 3 has +60VDC on it
When I looked up the manual on-line the impression that I got was that these schematics work for all of the 2300 and 2600 series drives. The way I read that schematic, terminals 8&9 on TB2 are your drive enable signal. The way it's shown I would assume that the run/jog switch would be maintained in the "run" position, and momentary in the "jog" position with a spring return to "off". The normally open K0 contact between terminals 10&11 on TB2 would be for feedback to the outside world that the drive was "running", or at least enabled. You'll need to ring out the connections to the switch (Check the continuity with a multi-meter) to verify that they are connected to the switch like the print says they should be. Then hook them up to terminals 8&9 as shown. A simple way to check if the drive actually works would be to jumper terminal 8 to terminal 9. If you do that, when you power up the drive the motor should go. Don
TB2 only has 8 terminals and they are not configured like the schematic for the 2600. Normally the Run switch is always on. That gives operation of the controller to the relay and the contacts close to enable the controller. An example would be a conveyor system with a head or tail end sensor tied into the pick line of the relay.
Thought I had a lead to a 2300 manual on Scribd, turned out to be the 2600 manual - AGAIN. Hope you get this thing working, they look to be a fairly high-end drive. Don
I'm still a bit stumped as to whats happening. When I measure across the armature leads I get 93v but it doesn't seem to be sensing power to the motor? Maybe the switch/variable knob is somehow miss wired and isn't letting power through?
D'oh! I just saw what you were saying above. Yes mine are tucked as well bot connected. No wonder it didn't turn on rofl. But yeah that diagram isn't very clear on where they all need to go. Hmm.
OK, I tried to find the Fincor Electronics Division that made the drive, but it looks like they have probably folded. The last website update was 2014 and the phone numbers that I found listed for them are a no-go. I see that Radwell has a Fincor 2301 P1 DC drive listed for $1400. I reached out to my local Radwell rep and asked him to find out if they by any chance have the manuals for that drive. Don
I found a site that is a repair shop that had one listed as repaired and tested. Filled out an inquiry and sent. Don’t know if they’ll respond.
Yeah, with any luck we'll be able to find a photocopy of a photocopy of the manual - just not a scanned version.
Anyone with a college age student? I used to have my daughters login for EBSCO. A login is supplied to students for research. It was full of a lot of manuals and other good stuff. https://search.ebscohost.com/Login....cookie,ip,url,uid&db=afh&jid="FSZ"&scope=site
I know its not exactly for the 2300 model but shouldn't these diagrams work? From https://www.scribd.com/document/433161185/FincorElectronics-Manuals-2300 I mean we don't have any connections over #8 on our boards but maybe the connections are the same up until then? Could at least connect the pot?
That question was addressed in post #288. "I found +10vDC on pin 7 so it looks like the Pot hooks to pins 6,7,8."
