Which milling machine model?

I'm guessing that thing is knee style? That thing hasn't run in some time. The big question is WHY? With cnc, if it's not running and you cant see it move, do not pay more than scrap prices. I learned that one from that guy that didnt buy our shop Lousiana. As a reseller, he wouldnt touch any cnc more than 10years old.

 

Zap,
Saw this little guy cruising FB marketplace.... Thought of you. (I have no idea about it other than what's in the ad. It's about 1-1 1/2hours from me)

 

M head. That'd be a a big NOPE for me. Variable speed J head is the one ya want.

It's got a cute little table if someone is tight on space.

 

Hmm. I'd like power feed at the bare minimum. I'm unsure what the difference between M and J heads are in practical terms. I'd like a large table as well and a machine that doesn't have a ton of wear on the ways, preferably a rescraped machine. Its funny how a lot of these ads have no information in them about what the machine is or does. Its like people post an ad for "thing" - no description, blurry distant photo - give me money and expect buyers.

I'm interested in upgrading to CNC at some point. I think ThisOldTony used a different CNC kit that was about $1500, seemed to have everything included. May be an option for the future.

Once tax returns come back in a week or two for me I'll have approx $3500-4000 saved up if needed for the machine. I could wait a bit longer and have more if I need but I'm happy to buy a good machine in that price range if needed. I don't want to get a fixer upper machine and be stuck trying to fix it for years.

 

zap... For the amount of $$ you have set aside. Really take alook at the Link for the PMathews that Dave posted. it's not a bad unit.
Here's an unboxing video of one. They look littler on the website. If I had nothing and was looking to get into a CNC mill without buying a CNC mill. This is one of the units I would be looking at. The fact that Dave is quietly giving a thumbs up here bumps it up on my list.

 

M is the original low HP head with a 3.5" quill travel; these make a nice machine for a model shop, but not much else. The J head has a power down feed, 5" of quill travel, and originally came with a 1.5HP motor.

 

I think the J had step pulleys for speed control, the 2J has the variable speed. This is the one you want.

 

I think Fulmen is right, the J had the pulleys and the 2J is variable. The variable speed works really well, you just gotta make sure to twist the spindle after you change from low to high or you will wish you had! I got the warning early on from Matt or I'm sure I would have screwed mine by now.

 

What about Cincinnati milling machines? They seem even more beefy than the bridgeports. 7.5 hp motor. Just not sure how they would do with tiny small details or if they are only good for hogging out huge chunks of metal? Quite a few for sale in my neck of the woods at good prices too with a fair bit of tooling.

Would they be big enough to take my 1.25" shank tooling?

 

Cincinnati are good machines. They have a lot of gravity. So yes you can hog big cuts with them. If they're not clapped out they can handle little cuts too.
The 2,150 is vertical / horizontal That gives you more flexibility. Horizontals are not popular today, but they can do some things easily that takes a more complex setup or multiple setups to do on a vertical. for 90% of the work vertical is the way to go... having the flexibility is a plus (assuming the two are in the same shape.... if not go for the best shape).

That's a really big area! Indiana to North Carolina.

 

The head looks a bit more sturdy than the Bridgeport.

 

If it functions correctly and depending what Lots of Tooling means, it sounds like a good deal.

 

Chirpy has a horizontal mill, but he also has a shaper and likes that really old school shit. Stick to a vertical mill and life will be much easier setting up stuff for you.
Before you buy a Cincinnati, I want you to try and find a pair of half nuts for it. Spare parts are getting really tough as time goes by on some of this stuff. Don't risk having to make stuff for awhile.
Take a look at this website and you will see why a bridgeport is the best way to go. If you need it, they've got it! Prices aren't even that bad for most of it.
https://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/?matchtype=e&network=g&device=c&keyword=h&w machine&campaign=1717163925&adgroup=69855940960&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4ImEBhDFARIsAGOTMj--GsNbIZ0lKdAKlOWpfhoNnw0n-qF-YL4vAWL2ZKfSI_6Sy0iitDMaAluEEALw_wcB

Case in point, scroll this page. Part number 20. DONE!
https://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/store/1478157/page/549798

 

Now that is excellent advice. A machine is only as good as the availability of spare parts.

 

Agreed, we've got a great condition Condor - bridgeport clone, trying to get spares is a nightmare, I'd really like to get the power feed working again but even schematics are non-existant.

 

Hmm. I had a look for half nuts, there seem to be some spare parts on ebay but not a ton. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. I thought cinncinati machines are pretty popular though? I've seen them a lot for sale over the years.

Also couldn't I just make my own spare parts or have them made for me by a machine shop if I really needed them?

I like bridgeports but I'm concerned all the boxes and boxes of tooling I bought over the years will be totally useless if the bridgeports can't hold larger shank bits. This means I'll have to drop a fortune on buying bits and cutters instead of using what I have already.

I'm not sure the right answer. I'm not sure how many spare parts I'll really need since I'm not planning on becoming a production facility and putting a lot of wear and tear on the parts. But maybe accidentally doing something stupid and breaking a part might lead me to need replacement parts?

 

Shit happens, off the shelf parts are worth it when ya break something or find something that's worn out. You can send out something to a shop, but they are not cheap unless ya know someone.

I know you have some big shit, but is it really worth keeping or cleaning up and selling? You'd be amazed what your stuff would look like soaked in evaporust and passed across a wire wheel on a buffer. Takes no time at all. Even with R8, you can hold some pretty big stuff. Worse case, you can make your own r8 collets to hold fat ass cutters with a simple set screw. You also might find not all your stuff is sharp. Probably 25% of the end mills I got are worthless. I am not a fan of HSS endmills as I dont wanna screw with coolant. So I stick to carbide and machine dry. I even picked up some super cheap chinese carbide that were metric. I stuffed them into imperial er20 collets and went to town. I give them super hot suppers and when the sparks start flying, I chuck em or burn up the last of the good cutting edges hogging out hard stuff. Save the HSS for aluminum work. (which I seem to do very little)

 

Most of the tooling I have is carbide I think.

What about the horse power needed for larger bits? Will a 1, 2, or 3 hp mill be enough to use the large cutters in an adapted collet?

 

How big is the cutter? You'll know if it's carbide. Usually very dark in color and HEAVY as hell.
Carbide can be sold back you do know right? They grind it up and make new stuff with it.