Wire two 120 lights in series and run them off the 240V power.... no cord needed and a bonus of two light sources.
I've done this before in a pinch. Once I was doing a seminar in a gymnasium and I needed 240 V for the demonstration. I showed up with one 10 foot extension cord and one 100 foot extension cord. I wish they installed more split receptacles everywhere.
One thing about lighting and why I use very little task lighting is that I have plenty of ceiling light. I use 36 T8 fluorescent 6500K light bulbs in a 22 x 21 shop that has a 8 1/2 foot ceiling. My milling machine and Lathe I use task lighting. I just use Homedepot $10 clamp on's and run them to a 120 V outlet. I personally like the shielded ones and I use LED spotlights that run me about three dollars. I only use them to get rid of back shadows. My 36 bulbs x 2850 lm. each deliver = 102 600 lumens. I am getting about 222 lm per square foot at 8.5 feet height. I usually run 10- 12 bulbs at 5000 K and 24 bulbs at 6500 K. Currently I have two bulbs that are out. Through my workplace I get the bulbs for about two dollars apiece and I replace about six a year.
I got them off ebay from a guy who bought them from https://snakeclamp.com/collections/...s/18-heavy-duty-flexible-gooseneck-arm-chrome . I got them a couple bucks cheaper than the site. There's even a stronger version that holds 3 lbs but I think that's overkill. I hooked up the spotlights to test them out. Wow bright. Leaves spots in my vision for a good 40 seconds. The color is nice too. Looks like sunlight not too pale or too yellow. I made adapters for the lights but will need to make adapters for the goose neck end tomorrow. I need to buy some bolts to fit the goose neck too. Here is some of the wiring. I drilled holes in the band saw base and stand. Also modified the cover plate and had to repaint it. I'll sort out the top arm tomorrow with wiring. Not sure if grounding the stand is a good idea but I did. I figure it will save me from a zap maybe?
Rule of thumb is have everything grounded and use ground for nothing but safety return voltage. All green lines or bare lines should be nothing but ground. All white lines should have a shrink denoting that they are a new hot. White is only reserved as a neutral and green is only reserved as a ground. White lines should be labelled (in my opinion) that are Black, blue or red if they are hot. White lines should only be neutral to ground. Most electricians will tape a white lead red when it is caring the hotline.
They are noticeably better quality than the box store crap. I'd definitely get another one if I needed a new light stand. I have the base and motor grounded to the 240v line and the top arm and lights will be grounded to the 120v line. There is paint between the parts so I don't think one ground would have worked.
Made some adapters for the lighting to connect it up. The stupid goose neck takes 3/8"-24 thread instead of something easy to find in the plumbing isle. I got some bolts from auto zone of all places about an inch long and lathed a 1/4" hole down the middle so wires can get through. Then made a little adapter from an iron pipe reducer (1/2" to 3/8"). And finally cut the threads off a piece of black 3/8" pipe and welded it to the back of the bolt. This way I can hook it all up. It constantly amazes me how slow machining is. Took me approx 2.5 hrs to fab 2 of these and 4 bolts with holes through.
Lights have been soldered, wired and assembled. Ready to bolt into the base. Currently making the base for the lights to mount to. Band saw frame reassembled with wires intact. Glands attached to cabinet wall to take the strain off the cables. My work shop in shambles...
Yes, machining can be painfully SLOW and rushing it can be hazardous to your health too! If I'm not in the right frame of mind, I walk away.
Finished fabricating the light stand/hole for the switch. Now to tap it into the bandsaw upper arm and install the lights. Then final assembly and alignment.
Drilled, tapped and mounted in place. Now for the final paint job and then final install tomorrow. Gonna do the final assembly in the morning when the paint is dry.
Well, those 2 lights I ordered showed up. Just as I expected, they are really shitty! I took the lens off and the ground wire is just hanging there and the metal LED plate is only super glued to the painted metal. No heat paste anywhere! And in true chinese style, they advertise 50watts but only will run at 28. In it's defense, it did crank out 4500lux measured at 3ft away, so it's pretty friggen bright in that respect. The downside, I had it lit for only about 2mins and the back was already 130f and rapidly rising. The metal housing is an eye watering .025! I swear I've seen thicker tin foil! So, I think the plan is going to be to gut it for the led panel and trash the rest. Maybe mount it to a thick aluminum plate and stick it on the mill. There is one really annoying thing about it and maybe some nerd here can tell me why. If you photograph under the light, you get these really bad lines in the photo or video. Last weekend I picked up a couple of 4ft 5000lux led shop lights at chinamart for 18bucks. They too won't do rated, but they also exhibit this weird light stripes. One of them is already flaking out on me. Home depot sells little 3ft led strip lights (no switch) and they don't do this. And to think I almost gave them away. As we say, photos or it didn't happen. This looks like a good place to stick this. Everyone needs to grab a beer and watch this. This is what we've come to these days guys and it's really sad.
The photo lines are cause by the technique used to vary the brightness: PWM or pulse width modulation, the ratio of ON time to OFF time is varied tens of thousands of times per second. The lamp is either full "on" or full "off" but human vision averages it all out to a given brightness setting. So when the photo frame gets taken several exposure lines are dark and several are bright.
Is the control board separate to the LEDs?, you may be able to solder a filter capacitor across the LEDS to smooth/average the voltage they they never fully turn off. So the conclusion of the video below is, don't use a cheap LED driver, buy something decent and it won't be a problem.
I think it is. I'll post another photo later when I have time to dork with it. This should be the fine example of engineering I own.
Unsure why your LEDs are scrolling. Very weird especially since I didn't think LEDs flickered. I got my LEDs setup and the cords all tapped and bundled away. I also made the blade brush and found a spot to mount it under the table where it barely clears. I know it doesn't strictly need a bearing but why not... so I added one. I need to do a few mods to the bearing guides then I can sand them and tidy up the edges and give them some paint.
