That looks like a wayne dalton garage door ya got there zap. I just trashed mine. I will say it was pretty lightweight but didnt have jack in it for insulation. Down the road, if you stay in that house long enough, dropping good money on a better door is not a bad investment. Since I changed out my door, I get a 20degree temp change from inside to outside. Tonight I finally fired up the junk procom heater this year and it was toasty warm out there. Pair of shorts, a cold beer, the TV rolling catching up on my youtube subs, life is good. Your saw looks great. But tell me, where the hell did you find your black adel clamps??? I have to order those in from aviation parts houses.
I got them from fastenalls which is a bolt and screw supply shop near me. Also I've seen them sold as a kit at harbor freight for a couple bucks. I'll have to see what brand the doors are. They seem ok quality. I'm unsure what the insulation in them is. But the garage stays pretty warm. I've never seen it dip below 50 f in there.
ahh.. yeah we have fastenal stores here. Those things come in half a dozen styles. The different color rubber part lets you know what they will tolerate. Some are better for oil, others fuel or heat tolerance. Probably one of the few things still made here in the states.
I need more of them for other projects. Super useful store. I must have made a dozen trips out there for supplies.
Any auto parts supplier that caters to racers will have them too, they're commonly used on just about any type of race car.
Man this project is starting to drag on. Why is it always the last 5% that takes 90% of the entire project time to finish?? I had a think about the brush mechanism. It works well but when I need to change blade its going to get in the way. I eventually want to put a quick disconnect for the jade on the saw but if I have to fiddle with the disconnect its not going to make it quick. I'm unsure what I can do to fix this issue since space is so limited under the table. What options do I have for tidying up the cables and connections coming from the motor?
It looks like you could switch the brush mounting from the inboard guide block to the outboard side and flip your brush over. Replace the capscrew with a thumb screw (should be tight enough?) so when you need to change or remount the blade you can just loosen the thumbscrew and swing the brush assembly outward. From your last picture in post 600 it looks like you have room on the brush shaft as well as in the bearing holder to place a second bearing. That would provide more stability for the shaft so the bearing doesn't start flopping, especially if you don't end up tightening the bearing holder. Edit: Maybe you do have two bearings in there. Hard for me to tell from the picture. Lol. Pete
I just realized that the blade guard on the left of picture should have the open end facing out. Otherwise I'll have to dismount it each time I remove the blade.........
New project. Making a metal storage rack. I'm tired of piling metal up in a corner and having it nearly avalanche when I pull out a piece.
I built myself a rack for scrap using what I had laying around. By the time I was done I hardly had anything to put in it! Lol.
That's one way to get rid of it!, I scored a whole lot of thick wall 4" diameter cardboard tube, I'm going to stack it a bit like a honeycomb pattern for all those short lengths of bar.
I was thinking of using plywood to line the rungs. Then I can put smaller bits inside and they have something to sit on. And maybe buckets below on the lowest tier.
What sort of offcuts will it store: bar or sheet materials?. It looks like it has a good center of gravity, Kelly would have to have a lot of experience with tube and bar racks and keeping it from being a tipping hazard
I've got a bit of everything. Lots of square tube and solid round bar. Also got a lot of small heavy large diameter stuff for the lathe and future mill and odd shaped parts. Should be fairly heavy stuff when loaded. I might add another pair of wheels in the middle so there are 6 wheels. This should help prevent bowing to some extent.
If you think supermarket trolleys steer bad, then six castor wheels is another magnitude of bad.... you'll need two people, one at each end to steer it as the wheels will fight each other and that's without the tipping effect of when a wheel "tucks under" and suddenly shifts the center of gravity... you may need to position the castors out past the frame to minimize the effect. If you can engineer it for four wheels, it's far better to move around than six. Castors with urethane or rubber tyres will fail with heavy weights after a few years while the alternative of metal wheels will grind sand into the concrete over time. Another option is overhead racks in the ceiling between rafters/purlins although weight is still an issue.
I was thinking of modeling it like the carts at home depot or lowes that use 6 wheels. The 2 in the middle are the non swivel kind and the 4 on the ends can rotate. This way the wheels shouldn't fight too much. I worry about the middle bowing when fully weighted with only 4 wheels.
I've seen those over here in Australia with "Masters" hardware which was a Lowes partnership that went bust, it's certainly a non trivial design issue to get something that's convenient and won't injure you if it tips over. Maybe all solid bar has to go on the bottom shelf to help the center of gravity.
Yes definitely don't want it to tip over. Though to be fair it will only be approximately 3 feet tall and about 3 feet wide with the shelves included so it should be pretty well balanced. Too bad they don't make industrial strength big single ball bearing wheels with very large balls. That way I could move the rack around in any direction without worrying about swivel wheels
That looks like a good design for a portable rack Zap. Wide base and minimizes build stock. It can accommodate long sticks and as you said, with some plywood shelving, also shorts. You're a young guy with many moves in your future but over time you'll find all these incremental additions to your hobby arsenal become a monumental task to move, particularly with the passing of time and as you age.......the last time I moved I hired it out because even though that was expensive it was more economical than wearing out a number of friendships and family imposition. I've been on the other end of those phone calls many times but its harder to answer the call these days. I built my home shop storage rack for vertical storage because I mostly had remnants and it minimizes footprint......it's location is more or less permanent but I'm not planning ongoing anywhere. http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/in...ject-did-you-make-today.786/page-2#post-18710 I generally buy longer sticks for my home use only as needed but keep a few angles and square profiles on hand, and what I have sits on the floor stacked against the wall. I've been meaning to mount a few ams high on the wall to store the sticks but it just hasn't risen to the top of the list. Yah, in the day job we had lots of adjustable rack with cantilever arms for storing sticks and finished assemblies. We used those cardboard tubes to ship but also used them to organize and separate smaller diameter stock on the storage shelves. It was better if there was a lot of end exposure so you could slide the stock out of the tubes as needed otherwise you has to grab the hole cardboard tube and take it to a place you could extract sticks. Best, Kelly
