You can bake virtually anything including SS. Not sure why you want to bake a core if you didn't have to. It's usually done to further cure a binder for additional strength and remove/convert binder constituents that that might otherwise off-gas during casting. I would think you would want to choose a binder that set with enough green strength to be de-molded prior to baking. You still need something from which to form/mold the core. Virtually all core baking I know of is done with the bare core exposed in an oven so you can use inexpensive and practical core box materials and release agents and not have to worry about sticking during bake. Best, Kelly
I had to let this project rest awhile as I attended to a few wanting projects around the house. I reconsidered buying an air manifold and just move on and finish the air system. But I'm in no hurry, been getting along fine without an air compressor so far. This is a simple project. Being able to make something like this is the whole reason for building my foundry and machine shop. So, I won't be buying an air manifold. I made a pattern using a 5/8" router core bit. The router slipped a wee bit thus the grooves are already too shallow. Moving on, I'll see how well this defective pattern will cast. I spent some time reading the Navy Foundry Manual and tried to design the runners, gates, etc. per their recommendations. This is what I came up with. Reducing the sprue diameter from 3/4" to 1/2" brought the ratios much closer to the Navy's recommendations. Does anyone see any problems thus far?
Maybe it's bone-headiness, maybe it's that I like the idea of making cores with sand, flour, and molasses. It's old school and I want to learn it. Also, this type of core, in the preparation of it will fit nicely into my daily routine, I think, and the waste products can be disposed of easily. I've experimented a little bit with SS cores and baked flour/molasses and I think the baked cores last longer. SS cores seem to be a diversion from the course I'm setting.
The casting turned out pretty well The channels are smooth like I need them to be. There are pits. This is a view of the top surface after milling off the vent.
At long last I get to make some cores. Ahhh, baked to perfection! Slice a groove down the center. I wrapped the glued up core pieces in aluminum foil to try sealing out the major gaps in the core.
Nice. As you explore old school, try linseed oil bonded cores. I have found that they are the strongest and longest lasting. BUT, DO NOT BAKE IN THE HOUSE! An hour and a half at 350* and they are done. Scratch the vent and glue the halves together with fIour paste and bake an additional 10 minutes. Aluminum plate is fine, but I cast mine so they would be slightly elevated so I could grip the edge with pliers. I junk shopped for old convection ovens and they seem to work the best, but a regular toaster oven is fine for thin cores. A single session and core box with multiple core plates produces a stock of cores for the casting session. I make quick coreboxes with POP. Dowels cut in half are the patterns and after the plaster has hardened I sand draft and cast it in aluminum, If it is a one time or low use core, just use it as cast. This is a wooden core box for a small elbow cast in pairs. First the cores on the plates, then after cutting the vent ready to be assembled and baked again.
Good info, ESC. There wasn't anything holding me back so I cast the manifold. The air manifold holds air, no hissing.