Anyone interested? 2cycle cylinder

Discussion in 'Request casting service' started by Red97, Feb 6, 2018.

  1. Red97

    Red97 Copper Banner Member

    I am brand new to foundry/casting work. I realize these will not be a very good "learning" project.

    Just wondering if anyone would be interested in making 3 of these for me.

    It is a chainsaw cylinder for a hybrid project. Basically 4" cubed.

    Very flexible with pretty much everything regarding this part. Would like at least the first 6-7fins from the top. Intake/exhaust port with enough material to machine to spec


    20180205_131805.jpg
    This is the transfer tunnel area, I need to add some material to make that wider than the base. Roughly 1/8"


    20180205_131810.jpg
    Intake port ^ can me made rectangular shaped all the way to the od if it is easier.

    20180205_131758.jpg

    Exhaust port. Same here just make a rectangular block all the way to the back. No need for the shapes etc.

    20180205_131824.jpg

    Cylinder bore, combustion chamber.

    That cylinder is currently 45mm bore, my plan is to bore it out for a 52mm bore iron sleeve. Need to make sure the diameter between the fins is at least 61mm or 2.4" if it is easier I can provide the iron sleeve to cast in.

    I don't need any of the ports cast through the jug. Same with the holes, a solid block with the fins and general profile will work fine.

    Not in any hurry, if you are interested let me know.



    This is the first hybrid I built, had to make all sorts of spacers/ modifications to the muffler.

    My goal is to just do the machine work to the cylinder and have a bolt on affair anyone could do.

    Thank you
    Joe

    I'm going to go back to reading/learning all the stuff here.
     
  2. PatJ

    PatJ Silver Banner Member

    There is a guy who goes by jhenise, and he made his own two-stroke cylinder in a build here:
    http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showt...-motorcycle-racing-cylinder&highlight=jhenise

    He is a very clever chap from out west, and has some good machines, and lots of skill in pattern making, etc.

    He does not use inexpensive materials though; he spends the money on the front end for everything, and pretty much does it right the first time, after considerable research of all the materials and methods available.

    There are not many jhenise's around, but they do exist, and what you are proposing can and has been done, but not cheaply.
    He put a lot of money, effort, and brainpower into casting his cylinders, but the results seem to be outstanding (I would go so far as to say spectacular).

    When you look at the money he has investing in machine tools, commercial sand, resin binder, degassing tanks and regulators, resin for molding, wood for patterns and coreboxes, cast iron for sleeves, heat treating ovens, furnace, variac, etc., we are talking a LOT of money; not sure exactly how much, but certainly many thousands of dollars.
    He did not cut corners, and I think that is one of the secret to his high quality castings.
    He is also a very smart cookie, and that is another one of the secrets to his success.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2018
    Red97 and Mark's castings like this.
  3. Red97

    Red97 Copper Banner Member

    I read that thread. Very talented indeed.

    That was what got me interested in home casting.

    I have the majority of the tools to accomplish the project. Working on the foundry/casting knowledge part of it, hence the reason I joined the site.

    May be a easier project for someone who dabbles in lost foam.

    I have no issue paying for quality work, good ingots if needed different sand etc

    Offering up this as a trial/error project for both parties involved.


    Obviously I could go to a real foundry and pay top$$ to get exactly what I want and when I want it. But where is the fun in That?

    Shoot I'd be happy to add a little bit of material to that cylinder, have some one drop it in the sand and pour a solid casting of it. No cores/ports.

    If someone wants to help with this project it can be as simple or complex as they decide to make it.

    Would anyone be interested in casting the spacer I used for the last project?

    It is a 3x3" square 1/2" thick with 4 holes and a through hole in the center?
     
  4. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Questions for you:
    1. I've built many go-cart, cycle, outboard, and model 2-stroke engines. Not a chainsaw guy. What kind/what makes it a hybrid?
    2. Are you looking to hire 3-4 pieces? What's your budget?
    3. Do you have a detailed drawing of all the casting features you'd like to control? For me, reverse engineering the part and the dimensional layout of all the features is more work than making a foam pattern and casting it with that information already in hand. Also, the opportunity for interpretation error means you can invest a bunch of time and come up with an unusable part.
    4. I presume the holes through the fins are there for cylinder mounting studs/bolts? Just gauging, because the required strength of the casting is considerably different for one that is secured only by the base versus through studs on top of the cylinder head. Would you intend to machine those features?
    5. Is there a picture looking down on the top of head?
    6. Would a larger number of shallower fins be acceptable? Say twice as many fins but only 1/2" deep?
    7. Does the shape and size of the combustion chamber need to be controlled? or will you machine it?
    8. You mention the ports don't need to be cast through but then comment the exhaust port can be rectangular. In my method, you could easily have cast through ports of constant cross section and would likely make a better casting. There would need to be details provided on the transfer port dimensions and the position of the other ports with respect to the cylinder center line and primary datum.
    9. I don't think I'd waste a pattern on trying to cast in place a cylinder sleeve. There's an outside chance but I think it's remote and would create lot's of additional problems, acting as a chill, the potential of tears, especially if there are port windows and dimensional/position features that need to be controlled.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  5. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    That's an easy one but you may be better off drilling the (4) holes depending upon diameter and positional tolerance.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  6. OCD

    OCD Silver

    That's a lot of work and expense for that spacer plate.

    Why not just pick up a 3 x 3 x 1/2" plate and drill/machine?
     
  7. Red97

    Red97 Copper Banner Member

    1, the chase world has very little support in regards to performance upgrades. The "hybrid" term is used becaust i took parts from a big saw fitting them to the small saw. 45mm bore to 50mm bore, now working on 52mm bore. Small saw, big power is a good thing in chainsaws.

    http://opeforum.com/threads/echo-cs-730-hybrid-build.9737/

    This is my build thread, the first page gives a pretty good idea of what had to be done to accomplish the task.

    2, I would really like at least 2. As far as a budget? Really don't have a idea on the costs/time involved. Guess i would need a quote once all the particulars are figured out.

    3, I do not have a drawing currently, I could whip one up. Nothing has the be held to super tight tolerances. Just the intake/exhaust port angle somewhat close. I can machine everything to spec.

    4, the holes through the fins were drilled after casting, the ones in the base are as cast. I can do all those later.

    5, 20180205_131817.jpg

    6, that could be a possibly, the fins are spaces less than 1/4" apart currently. And off center. 1/2" on one side 1 " on the other

    7, that is up to the person casting/ making the pattern. A 40mm bore with a sphere at the top would be nice, or a solid casting I could machine/shape as needed.

    8, what I mean is a simple rectangular block could come off the cylinder, no profiling/shaping/under cuts like the factory ports. If it is just as easy the inside of the ports can just be 1/2" through holes or solid, illm grind them tok shape later .

    9, Was just a thought, i can just bore/press it in later.

    What I am looking for Minimum, solid block of aluminum that somewhat looks and sized like that cylinder. To a exact replica, with material added , all cored out, similar to the link posted earlier with the motorcycle cylinders.

    I figure a major price difference between the two pieces.
    So if someone wold like to try. We would have to figure out a price, material etc. If you need a different type of sand/foam/wood etc. Don't have any problems helping you help me. As in likely the supplies could be used again for your own projects.

    I realize the majority here are "home foundrys" everyone has different means/niche.

    Definitely be a learning process for all.
     
  8. Red97

    Red97 Copper Banner Member

    That is what I did on the last one, it cam be seen in the link I posted above.

    I'm heading out of town next week for the next 3-5months. Won't have any time to play in the shop, just tons of time to think about all my projects I want to start.

    Just curious what it would cost to pay someone to cast it.
     
    Al2O3 likes this.
  9. OCD

    OCD Silver

    Red, You need one of these to cut wood. :D

    [​IMG]

    Brain Fart, I only read one of the last replies and misread the 3 x 3 material content which is why I thought for some reason you were needing a plate and not a block for a cylinder head. :oops:
    My bad, I'll slink back to my hole.
     
    Jason and Red97 like this.
  10. Red97

    Red97 Copper Banner Member

    That would be handy for sure.

    The spacer is just that roughly 3x3x.5" with 5 holes.

    I do want a cylinder too.
     
  11. Red97

    Red97 Copper Banner Member

    20180129_114151.jpg

    This is the billet one I started on, just looking to cut down some machine time.

    @Al203
    You can see how the exhaust and intake are just rectangle shaped. No real profile to them.
     
  12. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    Hey Red... Get in touch with olfoundryman. He's got the skills to pull this off. Kelly here also has a thing with fins and might be able to swing it. It might leak like a sieve, but will at least look like a cylinder head.;)
     
  13. OCD

    OCD Silver

    Gotta love the Family Love around here. [​IMG]
     
    Jason likes this.
  14. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    You know the drill... If I don't F with someone, it means I don't like them. :D
     
  15. Red97

    Red97 Copper Banner Member

    I can apply some jb weld to seal it up if needed...

    Wonder how air tight some of the aftermarket castings are? Seen some pretty rough ones before.
     
  16. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    Poor Kelly made a buttload of aluminum pipes for some automotive work and they weeped antifreeze. Craziest thing I ever seen. He ended up impregnating them with water glass I think and that sorted the porosity. He's been pretty quiet lately.... Where ya hiding Kelly?
     
  17. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Providenciales

    K
     
  18. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    No shit?????? I was JUST there 2weeks ago. Rained on me everyday and the water was cold as F. Hey, try the gyros just down the street from seven stars on Allegro. Cheapest thing on the island and they are amazing! I know looks sketchy As F, but it's safe.
    20180122_191555.jpg
     
  19. garyhlucas

    garyhlucas Copper

    Glycol can leak way more than water. Had a buddy pipe in some coolant lines in steel with cast iron fitting and he had to weld every joint to stop the leaks, including leaks right through the castings. I did a deicing glycol recovery job using Reverse Osmosis filters. We get 99% recovery on salt water and only 93 percent recovery on glycol!
     

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