Bridgeport for Beginners!

Discussion in 'Other metal working projects' started by Jason, Dec 10, 2019.

  1. Carbide threading inserts are pretty good to have around, it's possible to get some tool holders with carbide anvils that go under the insert to angle the insert the right way to get clearance if you're cutting a low T.P.I. thread or a left hand thread rather than run of the mill threads. I've been using anything from small TCMT 110204 carbide inserts (metric threads are 60 degree angle) through to tool steel for ACME threads. The triangle file lets me quickly touch up the crest, I nearly ruined threads without it as your male thread crest can be still binding on the matching radius of the nut's thread with everything else machined to fit.
     
  2. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Got the MT3-JT2 adapter for my little 11n Jacobs chuck. Wouldn't it figure the thing bottoms out in the chuck before it hits the sides!:rolleyes: Don't ya hate it when that happens?:p
    I looked around for a short JT2 version and didn't see anything. Any harm in slapping this thing in the lathe and shaving 1/4" off the end of the Jt2 ????
     
  3. Sounds like it's wrong somehow, are you sure it's a JT2 and not some factory mis-labelled adapter?.
     
  4. Peedee

    Peedee Silver

    I have to agree with Mark, something isn't right there. Do the angles match?
     
  5. OMM

    OMM Silver

    The angles need to match dead on if there is going to be a lock. They also need to be cylindrical ground. There are more than one taper. You have the Jacobs taper, do you have the mores taper, then you have the brown and sharp and the jarno.

    And then there are a couple custom tapers. If you use high spot blue or even just a black magic marker when you twist to fit, this will give you a good surface interference fit.
     
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  6. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Looks like it should be the right one to me. I think its just too long. I see others online trying to find a short version of the 2jt.

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  7. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Well I'll be a monkey's ass!
    This actually works pretty good! I think I'll hang onto my old router bits a little longer. lol.
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  8. Clay

    Clay Copper

    Count me in on that too. good idea.
     
  9. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I've actually used a router to mill aluminum with the carbide wood bits before owning a milling machine. Crazy ??
     
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  10. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Made a double header. I have GOT to get a 4 jaw. I'm sick of banging shit around.:mad:

    I wanted to make this a one piece holder with a dovetail until I found out Randy in the shops dovetail cutter was almost 200bucks!:eek: The one I bought from Shars is somewhere on the road.:rolleyes: This thing fits nicely in a tool holder. good enuf!;)

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  11. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Me too but usually just light chamfering and rounding and all dry cutting of course. As long as they are light cuts and only one side of the bit no problem other than watching for occasional build up on the cutting edge, especially on cast material. They aren't nearly as strong as built for purpose bits but the little cnc routers seem to do fine.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  12. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold Banner Member

    I cut .060 and .080 aluminum for sign blanks and machine tags, etc on my CNC trim router with carbide router bits pretty often. Perfect radius corners would be virtually impossible (or at least unprofitable) otherwise. As far as real machining goes, if it works in a pinch, go for it!

    Pete
     
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  13. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Before I hit the public button... Someone please tell me if I'm off base here. Thanks!

     
  14. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I would put an endmill in a r8 collet and check the run out off the shank of the endmill....
    I have several that I have clocked to get the lowest run out...
     
  15. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Not really wanting to play position the collet game to minimize shitty quality.

    I'm probably asking for too much from 60bucks, but I'm willing to pay more for a little better quality.
     
  16. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    +1. Why use an R8 adapter to ER-32 collets when you can just run R8 collets directly in your spindle? Every time you mount successive adapters it's just inviting more run out and less repeatability when gripping tools

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  17. Clay

    Clay Copper

    I concur, I would also put an endmill in a ER32 collet measure and note differences. That would be the verdict for me.
     
  18. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Point taken Kelly. I do have a decent selection of R8 collets already. I was thinking by having a decent ER32 R8, it would make swapping stuff faster and easier in the mill. Less standing on my toes.
     
  19. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Do you have a set of r8 collets? I have an unused set of Shars. I have an old (but nice) set that came with my mill so I don't need imports. I've never mounted them to measure run out.
    Build yourself that power draw bar.....;)

    Best,
    K
     
  20. Clay

    Clay Copper

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