Cheap Pyrometer parts list

Discussion in 'Foundry tools and flasks' started by Jason, Aug 25, 2017.

  1. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Professional Pyrometers are not cheap! Here is a shopping list and some photos to put together the worlds cheapest pyrometer. Works good, lasts long time! Yes, a VOM could be used in place of the fleabay meter, but why? You will need a 12" long 1/4" drill bit. Be sure to drill it perfectly straight for the first 3 inches with a smaller drill bit, then upsize it to 1/4" The long drill bit will follow your starter hole. Go slow, I got lucky the first time.

    Ebay
    Type K meter, TM-902C Digital LCD K Type Thermometer $3.75, cheap shipping! BUY one and a SPARE!
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/TM-902C-Dig...675248?hash=item41c9923030:g:5xMAAOSw8GtZWft3

    McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/#

    3859k44 12inch nickle type K thermocouple https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/628/=18ww32k

    3870K35 6feet of solid thermocouple fiberglass covered wire. https://www.mcmaster.com/#type-k-thermocouple-wire/=18ww4do

    7979A18 5/8" carbon gouging rod. (get 5 or 6 of these, they do wear out and you'll dork one up on the drilling.)
    https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/123/3426/=18ww4jm

    That's it, drill that 1/4" hole down the carbon rod, leaving about 3/4 inch at the bottom and insert the 12" thermocouple. Attach the rod to some emt with some hose clamps from your local hardware store and finish per the photo. Yes it's this easy! No excuse for not knowing what the temperature of your metal is.

    Pyro1.jpg Pyro2.jpg Pyro3.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2017
  2. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Excellent Post Jason and as we have discussed (and learned), that the carbon sheath will be rapidly (a few hours) consumed in air/oxidizing environments but stands up to metal contact, at least aluminum and bronzes (dunno about iron, but suspect not). So best to just use it intermittently measure metal temp and you will get long reliable service. They can be a bit fragile too so handle with care. I made a hanging hook for mine.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  3. Jason

    Jason Gold

    I KNEW it would happen sometime.. but I cooked the hell out of the wires on the top of my meter. Easy fix, pull some more wire through the tube and reattach... Kaowool to the rescue!

    20170920_151414.jpg
     
  4. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Guess were all having an off day casting...
     
  5. Jason

    Jason Gold

    not me buddy.... my dogs came out great! one needs a little welding work. looking fwd to the challenge.
     
  6. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Glad the pyro was an easy fix... Looking forward to some hot dog action too! :)

    Jeff
     
  7. Jason

    Jason Gold

    it was... except I wired the thing backwards... all day I've been looking at negative numbers.. lol
     
  8. Negativ3

    Negativ3 Silver

    Any hints on how to setup the rod so I can get a straight run?Ok, so I got two 12" x 1/4" drills delivered and I thought I would give it a go. Got half way through and the bit broke the surface of the rod. :mad:

    [​IMG]

    Any hints for me?

    I could get a man with a lathe to do the job, save my last rod :)
     
  9. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Buy a piece of drill rod and make a "D" bit. They wont wander on you...
     
  10. Negativ3

    Negativ3 Silver

    Thanks David, when you say D bit, is that the same as a masonry bit?
     
  11. Jason

    Jason Gold

    I used a masonry bit after I have a 3inch long 1/4" pilot hole started. sorry if I left that bit out. I got lucky and nailed it the first time. GO SLOW, u can do it. Be sure to test before you crimp the connections. it is possible to wire it backwards. No soldiering. twirl the wires and stick a crimp on them.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2017
  12. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    You're gonna need more rods anyway, they are expendable.

    That's how I do mine and my TCs are 1/8" and so is the hole drilled in the carbon gouging rod.

    [​IMG]

    The 1/8" TC provides thicker carbon wall and thus longer sheath life....>= 40-50 measurements in molten aluminum. I took a piece of tube that just fit over the OD of the gouging rod, cut it lengthwise with the die grinder and used it as a collet. I start out with a center drill, then step up to a 6" drill, then a 12" drill. Works well but is tedious because you must clear the chips and cut material every 1/2-3/4" depth of cut or it will bind and break either the sheath or the drill bit. Here in lies the tedious part because you need to slide the tail stock back and forth to do this.

    I made myself 10 sheaths that way which should last me a good long while but because of the above, next time, I think I'll make a drill fixture that allows the use of a hand drill. I'll probably use a piece of tube that I can slide a long drill guide bushing into and be withdrawn at successive depths. If you had a piece of tube to use as a drill bushing (I'd think 3-6" long) that was about the same OD as the Carbon rod and the ID of your TC, I bet you could just cut a long square slot in a piece of hard wood on a table saw, clamp both the rod and the drill guide in that slot, and then use the hand drill through the guide. I suspect, once you get to 6" of depth or so it would be self piloting and not need the fixture to complete the drilling.......but clear the chips very frequently.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  13. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Yup. Get your pre drilled sheathes from Kelly.:)
     
  14. Negativ3

    Negativ3 Silver

    Yes, just got a batch of 10 pcs ordered tonight.

    I was doing it vertically in a drill press with about three different clamps and angle iron to keep things straight or so I thought.

    I like the idea of the drill guide and clamp down arrangement. Just have to find some tubing to suit 12mm OD rod and a bushing to suit 6.35mm ID to fit inside the tubing.
     
  15. If you can use two drills, one to spin the carbon rod and one to spin the drill bit, you have a crude gun drill that will automatically centre the hole. I did it once with drill press to spin the drill bit and the round bar being drilled was spun in the chuck of a battery drill. Maybe a jury rig with two battery drills on the table facing each other and a piece of aluminium angle to rest the carbon rod in. Wrap the end of the carbon rod in tape so the chuck teeth can grip without crushing it....or a 1 inch length of metal tube that is a neat fit over the carbon rod with a lengthwise split so the drill chuck jaws can close it and grip the carbon.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2017
  16. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

  17. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Anyone buy a 12" long 1/4" masonary bit lately? Fast way to shoot the hell out of a $20 bill!
     
  18. Negativ3

    Negativ3 Silver

  19. Jason

    Jason Gold

    That's a fun page. If you scroll wayyyy down you will see a welder for sale for the big money of $18.95. My mother bought me one of those back in 1986, she found it at a garage sale. I seem to remember not being able to find any steel in the garage, so my dads carpenter square looked like a good candidate. One prompt ass kicking later by dad, that welder went into the trash. It kept shocking the piss outta me anyways... :eek::eek::eek:

    FWIW.. Page 90 has a neat write up on what appears to be the birth of the modern day Heat Pump HVAC unit. Easiest explanation to those that dont know about these.... It's an AC unit that simply runs in reverse.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2017
  20. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Last edited: Sep 26, 2017

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