Dry greensand for lost foam...?

Discussion in 'Lost foam casting' started by J.Vibert, May 8, 2018.

  1. J.Vibert

    J.Vibert Silver

    I was thinking about attempting my first lost foam pour this mother's day weekend. ...and yes as you may have guess the end result will be a mother's day present.

    The idea is to make a little plaque that will incorporate artistic details done by the kids. I was thinking the easiest way for me to pull this off is to get them to draw something, tape it to a piece of the pink foam board, and then router it out.

    My only real problem, beyond not ever attempting lost foam before, is the sand I need to bury the pattern into. I don't have anything on hand other than my greensand. The bonus here is I haven't used it in about 1-1/2yrs so any moisture content will be from climate exposure.

    Can I get away with using greensand for a lost foam pour..?

    All hand holding on presented on this will be greatly appreciated...lol
     
  2. If it runs and pours it should be fine. Vibrating a plastic bucket with a hammer works well, I'd put the flat side mostly down to make sure sand falls into the details. Are you planning to mud it? (I highly recommend that, thin it down to thick latex paint consistency) My first big mistake was not making a ring groove around the sprue opening to catch any over fill and it ran across the sand and caught the bucket on fire. A little trough in the sand fixes that.

    Waiting for the pictures!!
     
  3. J.Vibert

    J.Vibert Silver

    I was doing some quick research on our forums and found mention of "mudding" the foam form. I have a box of drywall mud that's gone crispy on the outside which means it's too annoying to bother with for it's original purpose. May as well coat the foam with it.

    I'm going to assume that if I do cover it with mud, I'll have to make venting efforts...?
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2018
  4. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    Your sand should be OK, especially if you mud the plaque. Some lost foam has been done in rammed greensand, but I think that is overkill.
    Depending on the size and thickness, I prefer a vertical or slanted orientation. Gravity is your friend and the angle eliminates voids in the underside where the detail is. Vibrate or settle the sand to be sure it fills any undercuts.
    I don't add any venting or risers.
    If this is your first time I would make a dummy piece about the same dimension as the project and pour it first. The initial fill action is not something we are used to with a conventional mold. I use Kush head made from a soup can, but a taped cone works too.
    Pour hot for the first test.
     
  5. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Thin your drywall mud. Think really soupy milkshake consistency. Let it dry and do it once more. It's 2 really thin coatings you are looking for then you can bury it in catpoop and it should come out fine. Here was my first casting.... This was done with foam, dry wall mud and a bucket of rocks. I was destined to screw with ceramic shell right from the beginning.
    AWWW... The good ol days.

    20141229_204913.jpg
     
  6. I'm getting good results with one coating of mud. Thin milkshake is a good description.

    IMG_3415a.jpg

    I let it vent back through the sprue. I just use an aluminum foil pouring cup. I don't pour particularly fast but you have to keep pouring because after you think you've got it full it will feed and need more material. This is one of my cones today, doubled aluminum foil, mashed and formed around a 1/2" square sprue.

    IMG_3515.JPG

    Then I finish filling the bucket with sand and lay a piece of sheetmetal on the edge of the bucket to shield the bucket from the crucible radiant heat.
     
  7. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I usually skip the mud but when I've used it, it was the kind that comes premixed and stays wet for ages if you keep it sealed up. I don"t know if that makes sny difference.

    Maybe post some pictures of the pattern once it's made, to see if anyone has some good ideas how tp sprue and bury it.

    Knowing how fast to pour might be the hardest part; it is quite easy to fill up the soup can before the mold is full. Doesn"t help you can't even see how fast it is filling up through all the smoke and fire anyhow...

    Jeff
     
  8. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    1. If it is dry, doesn't clump, and flows when you rattle the bucket it should be fine. If you ever want to use your green sand as green sand you will probably curse yourself for using it in lost foam due to the odor. Any sand will work with mud coating. Typically $3-$5/50 lb bag at the big box stores.
    2. Thinned drywall mud to the point it will just barely drip off your brush.
    3. Only one coat for coverage is needed and it will reproduce the surface quality of your pattern.
    4. No vents. Concept doesn't really apply in LF. The entire pattern surface is vent area. Risers rarely required.
    5. Top feed and position as ESC suggested.
    6. Pour hot.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
    oldironfarmer likes this.
  9. J.Vibert

    J.Vibert Silver

    Thanks for the advice guys... All will be applied over the next few days.

    I was hoping to have an overall thickness of nothing more than .5", but I couldn't find any of that pink foam board any thinner than 1". I don't have anything to slice it thinner, but depending on the size (undetermined) I might be able to rip it in two passes on the table saw...lol

    I'll be sure to make at least two "foamies" for sake of having a back up. ...and drywall mud will be used.

    There's a sand pit a few minutes walk down the street from me. I'm thinking I'll embrace my inner cheap self and grab a few buckets rather than pony up for play sand at HD. ;)
     
  10. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    You could whip up a quick horizontal hot wire cutter to cut thinner slabs out of the 1" foam, but I've seen sheets as thin as 1/4" at Lowe's. They did not have sheets less than 1" thick at the other big box stores I checked a few years ago.

    Jeff
     
  11. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Table saw works fine but might be a little rough as far as finish. Use other side or sand it. Be careful cutting on the table saw. The foam can be a little "grabby".

    Will be fine as long as it's dry. Good luck and post up!

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  12. J.Vibert

    J.Vibert Silver

    It rained last night :(
     

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