Gear reducer help me understand

Yes the whole in the center will be fine, Are you sure you would choose a bronze alloy?
Usually it would be a softer metal such as a 5 series aluminum or a aluminum Zink alloy for its brattle properties. This is the shear point and is intentionally designed to be weaker than the screw. It is also a wear point and you want the softest material to wear first. Under normal circumstances this cupeling will last a life time. It is only when in a bind or over thousands of hours of wear that it would fail. Honestly I would just mix up some scrap aluminum. Whatever I could find. Pour that in an a tin can that is a bit wider and several inches longer than needed and send that can and all to me. The lath will make quick work of the can and any shrinkage will pull to the center where the bore hole will be. I just need a slug of material. I might have some 6061 T6 bar stock. What is the diameter of the screw? The finished part will be the screw slot depth + 1.5 inches. The blank should be 1.5 - 2 inches longer than that for holding in the machine. If I have on hand and we use my 6061 bar stock material. The cost would be covered postage and all for $25 sent to Riley Children’s hospital. If I don’t have it in 6061 I could just pour the slug from some junk aluminum for free. My furnace is not finished but it would be fun for me and the grand sone to melt that small amount of aluminum in the heat treat oven and cast it in whatever we find that dimensionally fits this project.
Joe

 

I've never cast aluminum before. I don't have a way to weld or fix casting defects with aluminum I think. Unless I can tig it? The walls of the screw will be half inch and I can pull 40 amps with my current wiring setup. Not sure if that is enough to fix defects.

Should I just cast the screw with aluminum? I have a good 50 lb ingot of castable aluminum from the foundry supply. I'd need to make a crucible out of steel in that case. Or did you just mean cast the back piece that attaches to the shaft out of aluminum?

I got the gear reducer in the mail today with the coupling and key stock and shaft. I'll check and see if the 1/3 hp motor I have fits the mounting. I guess at 15:1 the 1/3 hp motor will act like a 5 hp motor when turning the screw?

I'll start coating on Friday when I get back from interviews. Then I'll cast a few days after. Might just do it in bronze for the first one to see how it does then make a second aluminum one later if needed and salvage the bronze for other projects if it turns out well.

 

I have been a bit tied up lately. My oldest grand child will be going in for another surgery a couple of days before Christmas. We celebrated her along with her brother’s Christmas last night. I did find the material to turn the part from cold rolled steel. There will be no need to cast a blank. Please send the dimension of the slot in the screw and the finished O.D. of the screw.
For now with the new developments it might be just after the first of January before I can get the part to you although if you need it sooner I might able to get it machined before she goes in to surgery. Let me know and I will work on it as quick as I possibly can. I will include more details a bit later.
Joe.

 

No rush Joe, I'm busy with interviews until Friday and then I need to build a new burnout chamber to fit the piece, and upgrade the furnace before I can cast so I think it will be early January before I have it cast. No worries at all.

Hopefully the surgery goes well and I hope it isn't too serious. My mom is going in for a minor surgery in a few days so I'll be helping around the house while she recovers.

Best wishes!

 

You guys are really out in the rough on gear reducers! What he wants in this Hp range is a NEMA 56C frame motor and a gearbox with 56C input. They make motors all the way to 2 hp in that frame size and they mate to 56C reducers with no adapters needed. It is really common for worm gear reducers to have tapered roller bearings on the output shaft. If you need to take axial thrust as in driving a screw you want the tapered roller bearing box. A hollow shaft style gear reducer makes it easier to build as you key your shaft and you are done. For the screw take a look at carbide tipped concrete drills at Home Depot. Some of those look like they would work well for this.