So I’ve been thinking about casting for awhile now. I’ve done a lot of research on it and I’d like to give it a go. I just like to get some options or ideas on how I can cast a fuel block seeing if I’ll need to make a mold of it in two parts for the ports a one for the block ect. what’s a good way to make a mold to do so?? any info would greatly be appreciated thank you fellas
That's a simple pattern and does not need to be a split pattern. It might not have even been cored. But adding a core to it would make the project more interesting...
Right on I’ll give it a try without a core and see how it goes I’ll make sure to post it on my attempt to do so..
IMO, not worth going to the trouble of making a core if your making one or small number, or maybe not under any circumstances depending upon the part size. Knowing the L x W x h dimensions would be helpful. The key to that part will be good molten metal preparation, sensible feed system, and a tranquil pour to achieve a good dense flaw free casting. A simple approach would be to mold face down in cope and one or a couple risers on the backside to feed and avoid shrink, but if the cross section is small, may not be needed. Though filling the part bottom up would be preferred, it allows your to attach risers where they wont be visible on the finished part. Just drill and tap the ports in the finished casting. Coring a small part like that in an effort to avoid shrink and porosity can sometimes aggravate the problem depending upon the core binder and venting. It will significantly complicate pattern making. Then you have the matter of insuring the casting interior is clean and free of sand imbedded in the internal casting surface which is tough on machine tools and your engine fuel system. Best, Kelly
Personally, I'd worry about the outside. There's a good chance that block was cast solid, then drilled from the end, and the three ports on top. The drilling would exclude any concerns about an inclusion inside. Drill and tap at 1/4 NPT at all bosses. Fuel supply in the end fitting, and out to three carbs from the top. Roger
Thanks Roget I was thinking that same thing to just cast it solid and tap and drill them all my only concern was also that with the two top and bottom flask because it is a small piece that I’d just fill with sand then push the piece into it and pack it then add the top flask after then remove or to just put it backside down and fill hope this makes sense of what I’m saying.. I’ll post pictures of what I mean and how I try it when I start it so that I know and learn the does and donts of casting. thank you again for the info
The measurements are 6in L by 7/8 H by in 7/8 W another question so since these are small pieces I am doing could I cast two in one flask rather then 1 at a time??
I see no reason you couldn't try, if you have two of them to pack into your mold. Place them side-by-side, about two inches apart, with the end boss facing the same way. Use those to feed the molten aluminum in. You're going to sand/file/machine that end anyway. Find some allen head pipe plugs to fill the top bosses. The resulting dimple left after the pour will give you a target when you drill them. Just my opine.....Roger
Thank you man for that info sounds good I’ll give it a try what I was thinking was to make a flask with a divided center plank to separate the two and pretty much mirror what I would do with making one. also as for the plugs I also thought of that as well but then thought if I did that and it didn’t fill to a solid form it may cause it to crack when drilling so I figured I’ll let it all fill and have a template out of plastic made for drilling purposes to mark dead on with drilling positions. if anyone’s tried that with making a flask with a divider in the center if it works or doesn’t wok info greatly appreciated
Welcome Alex, I take it from the lead post that you haven't cast before. I suggest some baby steps. Learn to pour defect free ingots first. A pressurized fuel block requires it. Then try to produce a single block. Once you get it mastered, you can move on to doubles. Good luck with your endeavor.
^^ From another lead that hasn't cast anything in 15 years or so - what he said. Unless you have the spare disposable income and are certain you want to go down this hobby path I'd suggest starting out like I did with the very basic flower pot and charcoal setup and some 2x4s hammered together for a flask. The learning curve is not all that steep for basic casting and that level of equipment is quite capable of producing the part you are contemplating. One weekend to build the equipment and pour your first ingots and the second to start figuring out how to prepare green sand and make basic molds. If I had it to do over again I'd probably start with commercially made Petrobond* and move to green sand later. Making usable green sand takes a bit of 'feel' and is a skill that Petrobond pretty much skips over - one less thing to learn when just starting this adventure. Also, for the part shown this rusty old caster would probably consider lost foam.........which I have not yet tried but will when I get my new casting shop ready to melt. * it does tend to loose it's 'good stuff' if it sets for 15 years. Hope a little R-OH will fix it.
I can't speak to the flowerpot, but I use charcoal and it works. In the long haul it's probably not the most cost effective fuel, but the barrier to entry is low and all it needs is a bit of forced air (I use a cheap 4" duct fan on a short length of duct) My crucible and furnace limit me to melt a bit more than 2 liters of metal, but for my purposes 2 liters of aluminum has been more than sufficient. I've found my 3D printer quite handy for patterns.
Tell me about it, it gets worse with a 5 gallon chamber you burn through charcoal like a pack of smarties That's of course for bronze, aluminum just needs a cute little mound
