Hi all, I've been interested in metal casting for a few years and have made my fare share of plaster ones that lasted a day or 2, so I opted to make a more robust one. I also wanted it to be quiet and cheap, so I went for a an electric one. The 2kw element can run completely free off my 3KW solar power for around 5 hours during the day, which is plenty of time to melt even large volumes of metal. I didn't really take many photos of the build process, but I think most of you will get the gist I purchased 15 insulation bricks, which were a mixture of 2300F and 2600F grade. And I arranged them in this box-like fashion with 1 cut up brick making the floor and 2 whole bricks making the lid. no mortar was used for anything, but it could've easily been applied (again sorry for the lack of detailed photos). I welded up 2 angle iron frames to hold everything together and clamped it with threaded bar, as many people have done on youtube, but I ended up ditching the threaded rod as you’ll see later. everything sits on a thin piece of sheet metal For the heating elements, I made 2 of these dirt cheap kanthal ones, using a jig shown in a video by the Vegoilguy (). These are 20 gauge and I got 2 spools from aliexpress for about $4 all together. Here’s the link to them; (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32948165785.html?spm=a2g0s.9042322.214.171.12414c4dRCaMyN). I used a multimeter to get the required resistance that would give me 9 amps at 240 volts To fit the elements in place, I ground circular grooves using a round file. Half the groove is in the lower brick and the other half is in the upper brick and a small gap is ground to let the heat out, but not the element. As you can see, the elements are trapped between the upper and lower shelves of bricks, making it impossible for it to fall out through creep. This eliminates the need for staples to hold the element in place, but it also means you can’t use mortar to glue the upper and lower bricks together, as you wont be able to remove the element when it breaks. This would probably make it unsuitable for applications that require everything to be completely mortared(I think), like a heat treatment oven, but its perfect for metal casting were you need gases to escape. To contain everything nicely, I decided to ditch the idea of clamping the 2 angle iron frames with threaded bar, and instead use stainless steel sheet metal bolted to the top and bottom angle iron frames. I found this 1.2mm thick stainless in a dumpster and cut it to size. Normal steel that’s painted with high heat paint would work fine too. The 2 elements exit the inside of the foundry through a small groove and they are attached to steel bolts, and the bolts are attached to high heat electrical cables. Search ebay for “mica” wire. Again, this whole method of holding the elements came from a video by vegoilguy (). I made the electronics box housing the elements through cutting a hole in the sheet metal wall and bolting on another piece of sheet that I bent. Eventually I'm going to replace the mild steel bolts with stainless steel ones, as they wont corrode. holes were drilled in the top of the box to allow adequate ventilation. Overall this seemed to be very safe I also welded 2 more angle iron frames for the lid and attached it with 2 hinges. Here’s a completely overkill PID electronics box made of 5mm thick steel and angle iron. It was way too heavy, but hey, it’s what I had on hand. The steel ended up being too thick to fit in the switches and fuses, so I replaced the front and back with thinner aluminium. I later attached a double illuminated rocker switch. The top switch turned on the pid and relay and the botton switch powered the elements. This bottom switch is handy as it lets you key in the desired temperature before the elements are turned on and also allows you to turn them off when taking the crucible out, to avoid shorting out the coils and/or getting electrocuted I mainly followed the wiring diagram from vegoilguy (http://www.vegoilguy.co.uk/_maingifs/pid1.png), but adding the illuminated switches required a few additions. I used a 10 amp fuse for the 9 amp element and an additional 5 amp fuse to protect the PID. I’m also planning to fix up the messy wiring at some stage and adding strain reliefs. I later decided I wanted everything insulated in ceramic fiber blanket, so I welded some 10mm thick flat bar to the sides of the angle iron frames, which would allow the 13mm thick wool to compress very lightly between the bricks and the stainless steel sheet panels. These particular blankets are bio-soluble (often called "superwool"), making them less hazardous to the lungs and I didn’t find them to be itchy, but it’s still recommended to wear a mask and gloves. All 4 sides of the foundry had blanket, including where the electronics came out (I cut holes in the blanket to allow the terminals to come through). I also put some blanket at the top of the lid beneath some more stainless sheet. I might add blanket on the floor of the foundry at some stage too. After this, I finished up the stainless steel walls, covering the corners with some stainless bent at 90 degrees, and sprayed all the mild steel with 1000 degree C paint. I ended up keeping on of the threaded rods behind the lid, as it holds the lid when opened. and I’m finally done after many months. Unfortunately 3 of the k23 bricks have already cracked in half so far, I think this might’ve been a result of trying to melt copper (which had it only 60C within its temperature limit), but everything still holds in place fine and I have mortar if things get worse. The K26 bricks are completely fine though, so if I were to do it again, I’d go fully with the higher grade. There’s a tonne of stuff I didn’t mention, so ask me something if you’re interested and feel free to suggest some improvements. Big shout out to the Vegoilguy. His tutorials were incredibly detailed and he gave me a tonne of advice via messaging on his patreon, which ill link here if you're interested in donating (https://www.patreon.com/vegoilguy/posts) I'm also going to use this for burning out investment molds and might have a crack at heat treating steel. Let me know if you think heat treatment will be possible with the amount of insulation I'm using. Eventually I may also add in a ramp, soak and step PID controller for the burnout purposes.