Homemade indexing head

Discussion in 'Castings, finishing/ repair/ and patina's' started by OddDuck, Mar 28, 2020.

  1. OddDuck

    OddDuck Copper

    Well, I think this is the logical place for this. All you real machinists, if you must laugh, do it quietly to avoid harm to my tender feelings...
  2. Nudge

    Nudge Copper

    It better than I can do. I'm still too much of a wimp to do cast iron. The furnace can do it, it's me that can't.
  3. OddDuck

    OddDuck Copper

    It's not too bad, just use lots of PPE. Also, higher temp gloves or mitts are nice to have.
  4. Jason

    Jason Gold Banner Member

    subbed. Will be watching! I'm with nudge, I'm a wuss.:oops: Someday maybe...
  5. OddDuck

    OddDuck Copper

    Now some headscratching to figure out how to fix my booboo...
    Jason likes this.
  6. Jason

    Jason Gold Banner Member

    Couldn't grip that sucker in a 4 jaw huh? That looked like a wild ride indeed. I like the bush idea.
  7. OddDuck

    OddDuck Copper

    Not safely. I really don't want a 5 pound chunk of cast iron suddenly reaching escape velocity in my vicinity. If I can figure out how to match the bottom with the bore I might just go with it as is. That internal void has me concerned, I don't want the wall to crack first time I try to use it. CI isn't terribly flexible.
  8. OMM

    OMM Silver Banner Member

    Drilling is always tricky. It will follow the void's.

    This is where a one tooth boring bar helps alleviate deflection.

    It can be saved with a bronze sleeve, but... Both should be bored.
  9. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    Oddduck, this is the line bore setup for the blower, and I also use it for the crankshaft and cam bores on the smallblock. OMM mentioned the single point boring bar. If you rig your two index surfaces parallel with the lathe axis and use the carriage to feed, the bore will be aligned with those two surfaces. The counterbores could also be done by turning the cutting tool and feeding from the tailstock.

  10. OddDuck

    OddDuck Copper

    ESC, that might be the ultimate solution. Hyperprecision isn't strictly necessary, the shaft is just going to be turned by hand, it just has to be parallel with the two reference surfaces. I'll have to make a new boring bar, the Gingery style one I made doesn't go between centers.

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