I use the long weekend to dial-in my casting setup with mixed results and a few lessons learnt. Any advice is appreciated. About the casting, the movie Mad Max Fury Road has its share of iconic vehicles. Gigahorse is a monstrosity made from stacked '59 Cadillacs powered by twin supercharged 502s. I've got mixed feelings about the demise of the Cadillacs but it fits the story. This is the shifter knob from Gigahorse as seen briefly during a chase scene. This is my take on it. I started with the stl file from Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:841218) Credit to questpac. I tweaked the lower jaw to my liking in Meshmixer and then printed it in four parts in Polysmooth filament. Then molded it using Smooth-On Rebound 25 and cast it in wax. The wax is made from a sculpting wax mixed with sprue wax. I could have gone directly from the print instead but wax meant I could make several quickly with easier clean-up. The casing turned out ok (see the pics below). Not perfect but usable. I'm still getting the kiln dialed in. The cone sitter accidentally switch off at the 500 c stage and the the PID quit sometime after reaching 730C. The wax burnout appears to have been complete. My PID controller failed for some reason. I'm using 5x8" flasks that are too large. I can only fit two in my kiln at a time. I'm going to step down to smaller ones for future attempts. The jaw area shows some flash where the mold cracked. All the teeth are there and should clean up. Not sure if it cracked due to thermal shock with the temperature fluctuations or burnout stress. The grainy texture was definitely a WTF moment. I think its sawdust. I had to switch over to a large pressure pot for vacuum investing instead of my vacuum table because of the flask size. Instead of releasing the pressure at the pump, I hit the valve on the top of the pressure pot and sucked saw dust into the mold. Its an interesting effect but not what I was looking for. We'll see if it grinds off ok. Unlike the burnout, the casting itself was uneventful. I poured about 3 minutes after the last ingot melted. I used "new" ingots that I got from Art awhile back. The mold was not completely cooled. I was able to quickly transfer it to the vacuum stand with welding gloves on. My gloves were toasty but not bad. I'm guessing the kiln was off for 6 hours but closed in before casting. The vacuum stand worked well. I've got two pours on it. I'd like to have a longer internal chamber for long flanged flasks but it works well for non perforated ones on top. Lessons learned (Notes for next time.) Get a better blower for the furnace. I'm using two hair dryers but I don't have any top end. I'm going to try a 12v bilge blower with a speed controller next. Rewire the kiln for 220. Its an old Cress kiln that I don't mind using for burnout but my setup is error prone and manual. I'm looking to add 220 coils and a ramp soak controller. I've got 220 service with 50 amps for welders and only 20 amps on 110 though. I could use with another set of tongs. Getting the large flasks out of the kiln was exciting on an earlier pour.