Need a Conveyor

Jason,
How's the pit going? You get deep enough for your wife to hide the body yet?

 

lol.. No not yet. I'm still buried under a mountain of friggen steel! I had to learn how to stick weld! Neighbor got me setup to run 6013 and while not super pretty, it's good enough! My engineer guy said welding it was overkill and thought I could have gotten away with leaving it. (that one kept me awake!) Maybe I would have been more comfortable swapping out the grade 2 shitty bolts for some grade 5, I decided to leave the plates and weld. Here is some photos of some welds. YES I KNOW, TOO HOT AND TOO FAST for you guys that have been running stick your entire lives.

Welding galvanized stuff is the nastiest shit I have ever done! I park a big fan right next to where I'm welding to blow away the fumes. Had to learn that lesson the hard way. The first night welding, after I took a shower, all I could taste was some nasty metal. Yes a big glass of milk helped that night, at least it did for me.



Here is the cross web slit closed up. Reason so hot is I then turned and blast through the washers shown in the bottom of this photo and welded
the hidden slit under the plate from the inside. (it's not welded yet in this photo) The 1/8" rod could not reach it unless I went nuclear on the washers.



Anyhow, I bought this piece of shit on ebay. The blades that came with it SUCK!





With a good blade, this saw is a keeper. If it makes it through the job, that's all I need. I'd love to have a badass bandsaw, but
don't have the space right now.


I used the shitty blades to slice this part off and grind this one edge smooth. Reason will become apparent later.



My neighbors daughter wanted to load some buckets. It's a lot of work, but she says it's worth it to run the remote! (nice shoes) lol



Last photo for now and I gotta get my ass back out there.

This is the typical wall section. Basically, the verticals are buried 24" in the concrete and anchored at the top. The toe extends 18" under the soil
to prevent rotation. The floor is 6" and the footer has to get 5/8" rebar. He is going to get me a detailed rebar plan when I get closer.
For now, this is my chicken scratch. I'd like to hear what some of you guys think of my setup. If my thinking is right, this will be a single pour of
around 8yards and might need a pump and vibrator. Just getting rid of some ass clown blowing mud inside of my garage makes me smile!
The anchors are 1/2"-13 X 7" long rated all thread epoxied into the slab. The angle iron is 3/16" welded to the I beams. Remember, I have FORTY
of these suckers at the moment. Vertical spacing is a little more than 12". Yeah, it's a lot of work!

 

So the walls are just going to be some kind of spray foam to seal off the clay?. The all thread epoxied into the slab 5 or 6 inches would go close to the tensile strength of the 1/2" threaded rod, so it's not going anywhere with that depth of epoxy. I see at the local hardware store some wire brushes that look like a test tube brush and mount in the battery drill to loosen the concrete dust out of the hole before blowing it out. Definitely get a concrete pump truck and maybe even hire a concretor to get a level flat slab. It's probably too small a slab for a laser level but it would be nice to get it flat and level first try

 

Nice score today. 60 feet of 1/2" all thread. 50BUCKS!!!

 

Yeah Mark, I'll like to hold as much moisture in the dirt as possible. Plastic, closed cell foam, or perlite should work well. I'll skin over the columns with thin sheet steel. I could even go for some thin shiny aluminum sheet if I can score a deal on it. That would really up the wow factor when someone looks down there.

I've never used the epoxy stuff for concrete. Anyone have any suggestions? The engineer said use quick setting stuff and it was critical the holes are super clean.

Looks like I need to get my eyes calibrated. Just checked this all thread and the stuff is 5/8" !!!
Whoops. Oh well, it just means a bigger hole.

 

I've set a few threaded rods into concrete holes using 24 hour epoxy and fine washed and dried silica sand. There used to be data sheets on the procedure back in the day but a lot of that stuff has disappeared now. So the basic deal is to cut the all thread to length, give it a light wire brush or wire wheel clean to get any oxides off, grind a bevel on the ends with a belt grinder to deburr and ensure a nut will start properly. Degrease and then scrub it with laundry soap, rinse and dry in the oven. You weigh the resin part A and B accurately as any imbalance will rapidly reduce strength: 3% imbalance reduced shear strength to 50% for one common brand I used.

Once you have a batch of resin, pour off a small amount of pure resin to be used to coat the hole and coat the cleaned all thread rod, even insert the rod into the hole to ensure full depth coating and remove the all thread from the hole. The rest of the resin you mix in with some silica sand to thicken it up. This does two things: makes the resin less likely to drip out of horizontal holes and the individual grains tend to stop crack propagation of the cured resin as the cracks hit a grain of sand and stop. The commercial glass capsules have the prepared coarse quartz sand for this reason. The hole should be a few mm larger than the all thread, i.e. an 18mm hole for a 16mm rod. You push a bit of the sand/resin mix in the concrete hole which by now has soaked up the pure resin mix and smear a coating of sand/resin mix over the resin painted all thread and insert into the hole, if the small amount of resin/sand mix before the rod stops the all thread from bottoming out in the hole you can usually spin the all thread and tap it a few times with a mallet to squirt the resin up the side of the all thread and out the hole. For a horizontal hole, you can slide a large steel washer onto the all thread to minimize the epoxy sand leaking out. Finally get out an old tooth brush or stiff brush from the auto parts store and clean any glue from the protruding all thread. All this above takes longer than 5 minute resin's cure time and five minute is not as strong as 24 hour epoxy either, I found in certain applications it will bend under applied force, days after cure.

Drilling concrete tends to give a slightly bigger hole diameter than the drill anyway but you want about 1/8' overall larger bore than the all thread to allow the resin and sand excess to be able to flow past the all thread and out the opening.

Concrete hole prep involves a full depth compressed air nozzle inserted in the hole with a rag wrapped around it and the hole to prevent a face full of concrete dust, the scrub the hole bore with a tooth brush or one of those dedicated wire brushes for the battery drill and then more compressed air.

Removal of a cured all thread can be as simple as cutting off flush with the concrete or if it has to come out you heat it with a torch until the epoxy lets go.

 

Thanks for the advice mark. I did some reading tonight and found epoxy for sale like you mention. The stuff was rated for 6300psi. I think the stuff I'm going to end up with is the 30,000 psi screw me right in the ass 30dollar a tube stuff. Simpson has a red butt plug that goes on the rod and plugs the horizontal hole to keep the stuff from leaking out. I'm learning I have to pick my battles. I do really good on a few things with this job and grab both ankles firmly on other things.

Looks like the standard is to drill the hole at least 1/16" larger than the bolt size. Now that I went and got stupid with 5/8" bolts, looks like I'm drilling out to 11/16 or 3/4" hole. Lucky me, I can see it now, I'll get 4-6 rods set for every 30bucks. OUCH! Reach around NOT INCLUDED.

If you remember the name of the mix it yourself stuff, I'd like to check it out. There has GOT to be a cheaper way to do this on a large scale like I'm doing. I refuse to get my screwing at lowes or the homelessshithole. I'm not a cheap ass by any means, but I've got 80 of these and that's nothing to sneeze at. That's about 400bucks in GLUE.

 

The epoxy only has to exceed the concrete strength, there's no point getting anything stronger, my concrete was 30 MegaPascals (MPa)/4300 PSI and the epoxy was 140 MPa/20 000 PSI if I recall right.

Had a look around online at Araldite 2011 (been around for 70 years structural adhesive) https://d1io3yog0oux5.cloudfront.ne.../144793_Araldite_2011_flyer_US_letter_[2].pdf

and it has a tensile strength of 3480 PSI when cured.

 

Oh really??? Let's say my garage floor was 4000psi back when it was poured. You think I could get away with 6000psi glue? How does this effect pullout strength? That's kinda what concerns me here. Even though it's mostly sheering force if I parked a big truck next to the hole. The tension is IF the columns start to move inward and would create a pullout condition.... Which shouldn't happen with 24inches of I-beam buried in the footer.

 

If the glue is stronger than the concrete then the concrete will fail and pull out, if the concrete is stronger than the glue then the glue will fail and pull out. If you think of the hole as a cylinder of a certain surface area, you want that total surface area in shear to exceed the tensile strength of the all thread. that way the all thread will fail before the glue or the concrete does. the way to ensure this is to have a deeper hole and longer all thread with longer engagement.

All other things being equal, if you double your all thread hole depth, you just doubled the surface area of the concrete/glue/all thread in shear and the strength of the assembly.

I've heard of ship's bollards on a wharf being sunk deep but held in with tar as the rope force is jamming the bollard sideways in the hole.

 

I used some of the self mixing Redhead anchor (tubes in the Concrete anchor aisle at the Menards here) It sets stupid fast and stiff. (I would order extra mixing tips!)
Here's the Tech specs. https://www.redheadanchoring.com/ge...1134-4e2a-bee9-120b32ceb350/A7-Technical-Data
It shows that with a 6" hole (9/16 dia) for 1/2 all thread in 4,000PSI concrete you're looking at a 8,029 Lbs shear or max tension 17,32 Lbs.
It's about $22 us a 9.5 oz tube. It's not cheap but not break the bank...and easy to use (I know why proper concrete guys use it. Even the 200Lb Gorilla on the drill can figure it out) And your engineer is going to love that it has specs and can call on to validate his math.
As mark pointed out in a perfect setup the bolts (all thread) will be under multi directional load and want to wedge it's self in the hole. The glue is there to keep it from pulling out if the axial load increases. It's a high tech high strength friction modifier.

 

That Redhead product Crazybillybob mentions looks ideal: it has all the data you need for various fastener sizes and the datasheet even shows installation procedure. The price is worth it for the certainty of a dedicated task specific product with test data.

 

I'm curious BillyBob.. How many anchors were you able to set before the tube went hard? I've read some horror stories about quick setting epoxy setting REALLY FAST!!

Column work continues. Cut out the 3/16" thick tabs that will be welded to the top of the columns and bolted to the slab. The rod is 5/8" so I made the hole 3/4". I figure the slop will help me get them in plumb easier. The small 1/2" hole is for an initial plug weld to correctly locate the plate. It will then get burned in on 3 sides and shouldn't go anywhere. My buddy is going to bring over his bobcat welder and we should be able to knock out all this welding in an afternoon with 2 machines running.

Here is 80 of these bastards! 2.75" long. Took awhile to chop these out with some degree of accuracy on my shitty bandsaw.



That was a LOT of drilling. 160 holes, run 3 times up to 3/4" and twice to 1/2" The bridgeport earns it's keep yet again!




Here's the idea... I can take my time and just plug weld first. Might mill out a jig to hold them for welding.
This thing here will become the drilling jig for the concrete later. I should probably make a jig to slide over the rods while they are setting up in the glue. Something lightweight...



We messed around with the configuration of the I-beams to the walls. Turns out this orientation, takes advantage of 2 sides of the I-beam instead of just the web.
Imagine the vice is the existing slab in this photo.

 

Won't those bracket holes line up with the I beam web?

 

I'm plug welding those holes first and then burning the remaining 3 sides of the plate.

 

Jason,
I'm a bad example. I didn't read the label till after it was too late. So I got about 5 anchors in before it set in the tip. (about 30 mins) But I was drilling and setting them at the same time. If I use the redhead again, I would drill all my holes. Then clean them all. them glue and set them all. It didn't help that it was like 90 degrees out (and the existing slab edge was in the sun) the day I decided to set the rebar.

 

Then you did pretty good to get 5 in before the tube went hard.

 

I was only setting the rebar in an couple of inches. I just needed the slab to move together with seasonal changes not hold a car up over a void.