One of the finishing touches I wanted to build for the new furnace was a NA (Naturally Aspired) propane burner. Your going to need the following to build this type of burner. Supplies (1) 1" ID x 12"- schedule 40 - 304 stainless steel piece of pipe (amazon) (1) 1"ID - schedule 40 - 304 stainless steel coupler (amazon) (1) 1/8"ID x 4" - 304 stainless steel nipple (1) 1" OD - Schedule 40 - Mild Steel end plug (any home improvement or hardware store) (1 set) 1/4" Male & Female hydraulic quick disconnect set (brass) (2) 1/4" coupler (brass) Air hose fittings (2) 1/4” to 1/8” reducer (plumbing fitting) (4) M5 x 0.8 X 10mm set crews (4) 1/4” - 20 x 1-1/2” Stainless steel bolts (4) 1/4” – 20 Stainless nuts (4) ¼” – 20 Stainless steel Teflon lock nuts (1) 1/4”NPT to 1/8” Adapter (“plumbing conversion fitting”) (any home improvement or hardware store) (1) 1/4” Compression nut (1) PB 1/4” A-2 Compression sleeve (1) .045-.055 MIG tip (1) 1” Steel floor base mount (1) 1”OD x 1-1/2”L Pipe nipple (1) #21 (.1654) Drill bit (1) 5mm x 0.8 Standard tap (for Mild steel) (1) 27/64” Drill bit (2) 1/8” Drill bits (HSS Cobalt) for drilling stainless steel (1) 5/16” Drill bit (HSS Cobalt) for drilling stainless steel (1) 1/4” x 20 Tap (HSS Cobalt) for drilling stainless steel (1) Tube TFE Paste ONWARD with the build. I started by marking my center lines at the end of the pipe plug, coupler and pipe. Marked the components accordingly. The most foolproof way to fabricate something in a drill press is to make sure it’s clamped or screwed down to prevent travel while drilling, tapping, etc. Take a “Flat” 9” x 9” piece of 3/4” plywood, place your foot base on it and mark the corresponding screw holes. Drill and pilot hole first and then the appropriate secondary hole for your screws. Screw your base plate to the plywood and install your nipple. Drill an oversized hole in each corner of the plywood. These hole will serve to secure your base to the underlying drill press top. Yes, you’ll need to make a wooden drill press top for this process. I always use oil when drilling holes in metal. Install the pipe plug and drill a 1/8” or smaller pilot hole. If the drill press doesn’t have enough travel and the press head needs to be lowered to accommodate the larger/long finish bit loosen the table clamps up, plunge your 1/8” bit back into the hole wherefore keeping perfect alignment and clamp everything back down. Replace the smaller drill bit with a 27/64 bit and drill your fuel rail hole. You don’t want a super tight fit between the hole you just drilled and the OD of the 1/8” fuel rail pipe. A slightly loose fit is desired so the rail can be adjusted for dead center if needed, which it will need. Remove the plug end and install in the end of the 1” pipe couple and attach the coupler to your burner pipe. I always use a spring loaded center punch to indent and mark all my holes which need to be drill not only marking purposes but to help keep the pilot hole bit from wandering. Install a 3/32” drill bit in the press chuck. Place your pipe and fittings than are to be fabricated in the pipe cradle and position as necessary. Align everything accordingly, clamp down the cradle base, realign your work piece, clamp the work piece down and drill a pilot hole. I used M5 x 0.8 X 10MM set screws in my configuration. Install a #21 (.1654) drill bit in the chuck and finish drilling all set screw holes. Replace the drill bit with a 5mm x 0.8 tap. ***Unplug your drill press*** Lower the tap down while installed in the DP chuck until the tap meets the pre-drilled holes. Apply light pressure and manually turn the chuck with a pipe wrench so the tap begins the tapping process. Maintain a constant light pressure while continuing the tapping process. After the tap has been fully seated within the hole set the ring stops, loosen the chuck so it releases the tap, loosen ring stops and allow the DP chuck housing to raise. Finish tapping the hole by hand. Repeat this process with all for set screw holes. This process ensures your holes and tapping are straight for the set screws. Reposition your work piece and drill all holes necessary for the set bolts in the SS pipe. I use a squared piece of plywood to check alignment holes and positioning of the pipe to drill bit placement to verify trueness before drilling. Remove from cradle and thoroughly wash with solvents. Tack weld the SS nuts in place. These nuts “WILL” need to be re-tapped after welding. Use a HSS Cobalt tap to tap stainless steel. Regular carbon taps will break off in the attempt of tapping. Next step is to mask off your burner pipe. After laying everything out and removing the tape/masking which covered the cutout areas I spray a few coats of cheap BBQ paint on the exposed areas. After drying for awhile I removed all the remaining masking/tape, wrapped a rag around the pipe and proceeded to cut the air intake slot out with a cutoff wheel. The cuts made in the ends of the air intake channel was done with a Dremel and flex shaft. If memory serves me correctly,,,,,, The ideal air/fuel intake is suppose to be 4:1. I made my air intake at a 5:1 ratio. Better to have and not need as it can always be choked which why this particular design is the Cat's Meow, IMO. This isn't my design in theory but a design , Mike Porter ( aka, Mickey Burner) came up with many years ago. After all the necessary cuts have been made stick a screw driver into the cut slot at the "end" and pry out the excess piping wall. Don't stick the screw driver in the middle of the cut area and try to pry the excess walling out as you may very well bend the ribs and cause uneven air intake. File and Dremel all cut area to acquire a smooth finished product. Assemble all pieces of the burner accordingly. I recommend you use a TFE Paste instead of tape. I feel you get a much better and long lasting seal with the paste than the Teflon tape rated for propane. Once assembled, perform the fuel jet alignment process as described and shown in the video. CORRECTION: Air slot intakes came out to be 1/2"w x 3" l after finishing. Concentric Reducer. Brain Fart. NOTE Propane tanks have a tendency to start frosting up after a while during operation. This can be overcome by either spraying down the propane tank and regulator with a garden hose or by placing the tank in a warm water bath during operation. On a hot summer day you won’t encounter the frosting issue.
The videos made me click over to YouTube to watch them for some reason instead of letting me watch the embedded version here. Anyhow, the burner seems to work great, good idea for how you made sure it shoots straight. Jeff
I think he has them setup that way. I makes me go to youtube also. Now if only we could get him to quit drinking that piss beer....
I don’t have any clue about what’s happening with the links guys. All my videos but one are set at “Unlisted”. I only started making these vids to share with you folks. I got that beer from your house Jason.... Buy better beer for your guest then. Im POOR, send me a couple cases of some good Beer then.
Very strange. If I sign out of YT it disables the links. Try clicking the links again and let me know what's happening.
Something I forgot to mention above but have edited into the thread. Sealing all propane connections. Use TFE Paste.
Thanks What's the saying? It's be fun but not real fun................... LOL TOOOoooooooooooooooooo much fab work. After actually firing the furnace up and using it I'm 86ing the hoist idea. Time to start melting some metal and get to casting. Those OR arms do come in very handy though for laying tools on, etc.
Got a photo or link for these hydraulic quick disconnects? I'd like to install these on my kwicky. I see you used 1/4".
Do yourself a flavor and stick a needle valve on that contraption of yours. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-NPT-Br...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 QC apparently went down in price. Better grab it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BY6Q52U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You also need the male connector as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BKAE2K8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I will eventually replace my oil line set with these, because the male and female seal when disconnected. https://www.amazon.com/ISO-Disconne...1525&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=parker+series+72
