Please ignore the title I must have miss typed it when uploading. Also, I sped it up in certain places after you get the idea of the technique (if you can call it a technique). Still getting used to editing, so I'm open for any suggestions. Might be a bit of a long video even with the speed ups. It took me about 55 mins in real life to make 1 claw.
Never tried clay for scultures but just from handling it I think wax takes finer detail but wax is slower to sculpt than clay.
Hey, how much thixotropic do I need to thicken the rebound 25? If I'm looking at 3 of those 2 lb jars, how many pounds of thixotropic do I need to have enough plus a bit extra just in case of the inevitable F ups that will happen (1#, 2#, 3#, etc)?
Just get one little bottle of the stuff. WATCH MY VIDEOS! It shows me using the stuff. 6 or 7 drops is all you need. Start at around 50 mins
Zap, Are you asking what to use to keep the silicone from sticking to the silicone? Once the stuff is cured as in multi part molds on your chicken, you will spray the exposed parts with mold ease to keep the next section from sticking to the first. Does that answer your question?
Just a release agent in a spray can. Ya spray whatever you don't want the silicone to stick to. Get it from smooth on with the rebound and thi-vex. It's ease release 200. https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/ease-release/
K I took the plunge. Expensive materials. 245 bucks to buy material to make 1 - 2 molds. Yikes. I'm hoping 3 yards of fiberglass mesh will be enough for the outer shell. Otherwise I guess I'll be cutting up rags to fill the stuff in. How well does silicone stick to cured silicone rubber? For example when making the layers, your video said you can do it the next day. Does it stick well or does it peel with a bit of applied force if added after previous coats cure? Materials Purchased: Silicone Rubber Materials: 3x Smooth-On Rebound 25 Brush On Trial Unit Platinum Silicone Moldmaking Rubber 100 g Thixotropic Additive for All Silicone Mold Rubber 1 x Mann Ease Release 200 Silicone to Silicone, Urethane, Epoxy, Mold Release Agent Monster Makers 5 lb. Monster Clay Premium MEDIUM Grade Modeling Clay Fiberglass Materials: ULTRA CLEAR EPOXY RESIN - Fiberglass, Table Tops -- High Gloss (128oz Kit) Fiberglass Chopped Strand Mat 1.5 oz x 50" Inch - 9 FEET LONG - 3 YARD
The longest I've let it go is 5 or 6 hrs and it showed no signs of delamination for the additional coats. IF you watched the entire video, you'll notice I stayed up ALL NIGHT to complete the silicone layers. I knocked off 2 bottles of merlot and was half in the bag when finished. I've heard you can come back the next day, but I wouldn't with something as complicated as what you've got... Play it safe. Apply the silicone inside the warm house and plan on a new layer every hour until that section is done. I'd mold up one section at a time until it had it's 4 layers. Then the next day, move your walls and do the next section. Your shopping list for smooth on looks fine. You can always buy more glass matt or chopped glass at walmart at 2am in the auto department if you run out. Return the left over. Get a box of chip brushes at harbor freight, you'll need them big time and they are cheap there. I like using both chopped and the matt when doing glass work. I alternate between layers. I HATE doing fiberglass work and I'm not that good at it, but I get the job done. Watch some fiberglass videos on the tube to get a feel for it if you haven't done it before. Mix it hot and it will set up on you like a beast, mix it cold and it will never harden. Try to avoid air pockets in the glass work and wear some gloves. You can do this! You do know you will probably have 3 or 4 layers of fiberglass matt and resin over your silicone right? One layer of glass and resin is paper thin and you'll have to build this up into a 1/4" at the minimum thick mother mold. (this is why I want to try the plastipaste, it's one layer at the right thickness and ya done!)
Is the epoxy resin not the right stuff? Will it work the same? Or do I go back and buy another product instead? I'll buy another 3 yard mat of fiber glass just to be sure I have enough, but good tip about walmart automotive section. Didn't know they sold it there.
Ok, you don't have to answer that question. I was asking because I've dealt with literally 100's if not 1000's of gallons of different resins in my life time and when that stuff kicks it gets so hot you won't be able to hold it. I have a bad feeling your poor ole chicken is going to deform on you in the silicone mold to say the least. You might want to check with RAM about how much heat the silicone can handle as well before going ape shit with your plans. About resins, epoxy resins can be poured such as casting resins with no filler within them. They have a totally different cell structure than say polyester resin which will crack and break apart "without" any filler or fiberglass base added. Vinyl ester resins are a mixture of different resins and right next to epoxies on the tensile strength ladder. If, the cured silicon can handle the heat I would start out with a trial piece, build a small mold (3/16") max clearance from the sides, mix some resin, add some chopped glass and pour it into the mold with your silicone test piece. Don't worry about adding the fiberglass matting, you WON'T need it.
The Table Top epoxy you purchased is fine. It's chemical structure chain is designed to be poured/casted "without" any fiberglass needed for strengthening. Just make sure you read the instructions for that particular product as they aren't all the same. Products vary depending on manufacturer.
Oh, if it is the wrong stuff then I can just use it for another project. I know the GF will find a use for the epoxy resin, she's all into resin molding things. What is the right stuff to get that won't melt the bird? Name a name and I'll see to it that it never sees the light of day... I mean I'll buy it asap. Update: I'm not sure I understand the difference between what I bought and what I should have bought. What & why please!!
